老北京的风味小吃(下)

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铜嘴大茶壶在北京的风味小吃中,有一种吃起来醇香,看上去过瘾的小吃,这就是人们所熟悉的茶汤。看过电视剧《铜嘴大茶壶》的人大概都会记得,北京人艺老演员牛星丽在剧中扮演的主角就是手持大茶壶卖茶汤的。要说茶汤究竟属于哪朝哪代的发明,这大概谁也难说清。不过,多少年来,甭管是哪朝哪代,逢年过节,这茶汤便总是在庙会上一显身手,惹得一群群大人小孩睁圆了一双惊奇的眼。您看,那卖茶汤的桌子上,放着把锃光瓦亮的大号铜壶,壶嘴、壶把、上口、底足都镶着用黄铜雕刻的花纹,壶体两侧各镶着一条金鱼在小草中游动……等到炉火烧旺的时候,只见壶中开水翻滚,热气腾腾。更有意思的是,您再看眼前这卖茶汤的大师傅,两脚分开,双臂摆平架势,一手拿碗,另一只手搬壶倒水,碗口距壶嘴儿足有一二尺远,眼见那冒着热气的开水由壶嘴儿喷射而出,不偏不倚正好“砸”在碗中,且点滴不漏,动作准确优美。其实,要冲好它,真得需要很高的技巧。首先,得一次完成,绝不能拖泥带水滴滴答答地往碗里兑,否则茶汤准是生的,那卖主可就亏了本了。再有,出水虽猛,但绝不能浇在手上,要不,手也烫了,碗也砸了,赔本赚吆喝,那就更不合算了。所以,卖茶汤的老师傅都练有一手绝活,别瞧全部动作总共才有几秒钟的时间,可练好这一手,恐怕得花上几年的工夫。茶汤是北京的传统小吃,大多由回民经营,主要原料是栗子面,佐以核桃仁、花生仁、芝麻等果料,因果料有八种之多,故也称“八宝茶汤”。虽然它主要是在清真茶食店和庙会上经营,但在旧北京时,也有小贩走街串巷边吆喝边卖的。一副担子,一头是放原料和瓷碗的柜子,另一头是在一个小火炉上放把黄铜高嘴儿壶,壶高足有三尺,擦得金光闪闪,清洁美观。小贩如此,店家也同样是用这样的铜壶,架在店门口,远远的就能看得见那儿立着个庞然大物。那时的人也顶聪明,这等于是不花钱在作广告啊。南宛北季在北京城内,素有“南宛北季”之说,指的是南城宣内大街的“烤肉宛”和后海 Tongzhu big teapot in Beijing snacks, there is a kind of mellow, appetizing snacks, which is the familiar tea. Who read the TV series “copper mouth big teapot,” people will probably remember that the Beijing Art Nouveau actor Niu Xingli plays the protagonist is holding a large teapot selling tea. To say what kind of tea belongs to what the invention, which probably hard to say clearly. However, over the years, what is the control of what generation, festivals, this tea will always show their talents at the temple fair, prompting a group of adults and children opened a pair of surprised eyes. You see, that sell tea table, put the large light copper tile, spout, pot handle, catchy, the bottom feet are inlaid with brass carving patterns, both sides of each body potted body A goldfish swimming in the grass ... ... until the fire is booming, I saw the pot of boiling water, steaming. More interesting is that you look at the front of this master selling tea, feet apart, arms placed flat posture, one hand take the bowl, the other hand moving pot pouring, bowl mouth from the spout children feet a foot or two , Saw that steaming hot water from the spout child jet out, impartial just “smash ” in the bowl, and drip drip, action accurate and beautiful. In fact, it is really necessary to have a good skill in punching it. First of all, once completed, must not muddy dripping into the bowl against, otherwise the soup prospective students, then the seller may lose this. Again, the water is fierce, but it must not be poured in the hands, or else, the hands are also hot, the bowl smashed, losing money earned, it is even more uneconomical. Therefore, the old masters who sell tea have practiced a unique skill, do not look at all the actions a total of only a few seconds, can practice this hand, I am afraid to spend a few years time. Tea is Beijing’s traditional snacks, mostly run by the Muslims, the main raw material is chestnut noodles, accompanied by walnut, peanut, sesame and other fruit, cassia has eight as many, it is also known as “Babao tea soup” . Although it is mainly run at halal tea shops and temple festivals, in the old Beijing, there were also hawkers who sold side-by-side by side. A pair of burdens, one is a cupboard with raw materials and porcelain bowls, and the other is a brass beaker with a tall mouth on a small stove. So hawkers, stores also use such a copper pot, stand in front of the store, far from being able to see there standing a monster. At that time, people are also smart, which means that you do not pay for advertising. South Wan North quarter in the city of Beijing, known as “South Wan North Quarter,” said, referring to Nan Cheng Xuan Nei Avenue “roast Wan ” and the sea
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