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一、引言河口地区潮波的经典理论,苏联舒列金院士在他著的《海洋物理》中阐明得较完整。最近我们把他的理论进一步推向一般情况。但都没有计入普遍地存在的摩擦影响问题,因此,理论与实际仍有一定的差距。从理论上讲,潮波向河口内推进,波高逐浙增大,但由于河底摩擦的作用,潮波的动能和势能不断地被损耗,使得潮波的波高和速度,随着时间的推延逐浙减少。所以潮波向河口内推进,波高不是无限制增大,而是受到摩擦的牵制,增大到
I. INTRODUCTION The classic theory of the tidal wave in the estuary area is illustrated by the academician Schuller of the Soviet Union in his book “Marine Physics”. Recently, we have pushed his theory further to the general situation. However, they all do not account for the widespread friction problem. Therefore, there is still some gap between theory and practice. In theory, the tidal waves advance into the estuary and the wave height increases gradually from Zhejiang to Zhejiang, but the kinetic energy and potential energy of the tidal wave are constantly depleted due to the friction at the river bottom, so that the wave height and speed of the tidal wave are delayed as time goes by Zhejiang reduced. Therefore, the tidal wave is pushed into the mouth of the estuary. The wave height is not unlimitedly increased. Instead, it is restrained by friction and increased to