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每年7、8、9月间，是野生菌爱好者的节日，因为彼时正是云南各样野生菌蓬勃上市的季节。等了一年饥肠辘辘的人千里迢迢到云南，沉下来，每天用新鲜的各种叫不出名字的肥嫩喜人的菌子把自己喂饱，吃到浑身都充满了菌子带来的大山灵气，然后叹一口气说，这才是鲜美的生活。
July， August and September are the best months for fungus lovers to feast their palate with a plethora of wild Yunnan fungus that only grow at this period of the year. After a year’s waiting， fungus-craving foodies would travel all the way to Yunnan for a short stay， feed themselves everyday with a variety of fresh and tender fungus that they don’t even know the name， until they carry the aura of the mountains and exclaim， this is how “fresh” life looks like.
云南人餐桌上最不可缺的一道菜必定是野生菌，干巴菌、牛肝菌、青头菌、鸡枞菌、松茸菌……所谓“无菌不欢”。对于土生土长的云南人来说，下雨天吃菌子，是天经地义的事情，菌子就是天上掉下来的馅饼，整个夏天，仿佛随雨水和雷声而来的，全是鲜美肥嫩的菌子，找菌子也会是兼具郊游和探险于一身的有益活动，人人可得，绝无成本。只要雨过天晴，随便找个山坡，就能完成这项游玩与美食同时进行的活动。
一部《舌尖上的中国》令云南松茸红遍大江南北，但是很多人都不知道，在松茸之前，其实云南人最爱的是鸡枞菌。“鸡枞菌，秋七月生浅草中，初奋地则如笠，渐如盖，移晷纷披如鸡羽，故名鸡，以其从土出，故名枞。”肉厚肥硕，质细丝白，味道鲜甜香脆。且价格也不菲，尤其是刚上市之时，可以卖到800多元一千克。
云南拥有野生菌978种，占已知世界2166种野生菌的45%，占中国的91%，是全球野生食用菌品种和数量最多的地区之一。云南食用菌92.8%是野生食用菌，自然产量达50万吨。相比于其他野生食物，菌子营养价值高、味道鲜美，越来越受到众多食客的追捧。现在云南大部分的野生菌被空运到省外乃至国外多个地方，成为各地餐厅的珍贵食材。
Fungus is an essential ingredient in Yunnan cuisine， be it dry fungus， boletus， green fungus， or termite mushroom， fungus is a thing the locals could not “survive without” on the dinner table. For Yunnan natives， eating fungus on rainy days is something they take for granted. Fungus is a gift from the heaven. All summer， fleshy and fresh fungus arrives with rain and thunder. Fungus hunting is also a healthy sport embodying picnic and adventure， and it is cost free and accessible. As the sky clears after a shower， you can go to a slope， and start this gourmet’s game.
Matsutake is probably the most famous Yunnan fungus thanks to the documentary A Bite of China， but interestingly， chicken fir， alias termite mushroom， is the favorite fungus for locals， although lesser known to the public. “Chicken fir grows in shallow grass in July， initially in the shape of a hat， then a canopy. Under the sun， its shadow looks like chicken feathers， getting the “chicken” in its name. And because it grows out of soil， it is named after fir.” The white textured fungus is fleshy， tender， fresh， and crunchy. It is also quite expensive， with freshly picked ones selling at more than 800 yuan a kilo.
Yunnan produces the biggest variety and largest quantity of edible wild fungus in the world. It boasts of 978 varieties of wild fungus， representing 45% of the 2，166 identified wild fungus worldwide， and 91% that of China. 92.8% of the 500，000 tons annual product of edible fungus in Yunnan is wild fungus. More nutritious and fresher than other wild food materials， wild fungus has become a sought-after delicacy for more and more foodies. Most of the wild fungus in Yunnan is now air transported to other parts of the country and other countries to be served as upscale dishes in restaurants. 菌香包烧花米饭 Fungus steamed colored rice
五色花米饭是布依人的特产，不但色彩鲜艳美丽，吸收了新鲜的野生菌的香气更显浓郁。Five-colored rice is a specialty of the Buyi nationality. Steamed with fresh fungus， the rice is colorful and enticingly fragrant.
鲜菌需偶遇
对于热爱美食的Shine来说，野生菌无疑是她非常酷爱的食材之一。每一年她都要和几个美食作家一起去云南体验采菌、吃菌，能够亲自挎上小篮子上山，到大自然中去寻找自己喜欢的食材，绝对是件极其快乐的事情！不过，云南虽然是野生菌王国，漫山遍野都是菌子，可对于不会采的人，如果没有当地人当向导，想找到它们，难了！
云南人吃菌子，第一要吃野生的，第二就是要鲜菌鲜吃！空降丽江后，Shine一行人驱车近4小时才到达采菌的目的地——怒江傈僳族自治州兰坪县通甸镇德胜村罗古菁自然村一户普米人家。在这里跟着向导到山上采菌子，海拔2800多米的高原上，气喘吁吁地来回走了2个多小时，才只看到了一点点香菌，中间还攀岩爬坡的，非常辛苦。所有人都不约而同地感慨，原来采菌子如此不易，卖上天价也应该啊。
之所以选择这里，是因为这里是松茸的产地，每年7月，大山深处到处散发着菌类成熟、迷人的香气，随着他们越爬越高，山路两侧渐渐出现了诱人的松茸。其实，在日本人将松茸抬高身价之前，云南人并不喜食它，他们更爱的是鸡枞等其他菌类。随着日本人对松茸的热爱传播到中国，如今，松茸已是昂贵的食材。日本人对松茸的吃法主要是刺身或炭烤，当地人更喜欢炭烤的味道，最好用松木，慢火烤一下，蘸点海盐即可。其实，在烤的时候，就能闻到那种深山松林的味道，入口之后味道更浓郁，伴随着矿物质的芳香，有一种瞬间穿越到原始森林的奇妙感觉。
据向导介绍，采菌是一件很讲究天时、地利、人和的事，生长在海拔千米之上的野生菌与森林植被有共生关系，就拿松茸来说，松茸孢子落地后与林木的根共生，形成呈蘑菇状辐射分布的菌根，被称为“菌塘”，这样的环境才最适合松茸生长。松茸像是会认人似的，遇到不认识的人它们会躲起来，你根本就找不到它们。它们有单生的也有群生的，地里随处都会长松茸，不熟悉地形的人很容易就踩踏破坏了幼菌童茸，所以，当地人在采摘时会非常小心，轻轻扒开松叶，慢慢采摘，这样就能保护好“菌塘”，来年这个时期在这里或者这个附近还能找到它们。
或许，难寻、脆弱、稀少，这些也是野生菌美味的原因之一吧！
菜梗炒老人头菌
Deep fried catathelasma with vegetable stem
老人头菌因体短胖肥硕，菌盖厚实、菌满如老寿星的光头而得名，扎实的口感久炒依然不干不涩。The variety of catathelasma in this dish is called “old man’s head” in Chinese because with a stout and fat body and a thick cap， it looks like the bald head of the legendary God of Longevity.
A fresh encounter with fungus
As a gourmet， wild fungus is no doubt the favorite food material for Shine. Each year， he would join several other food critics to hunt and taste fungus in Yunnan. Nothing could compare to the joy of hunting for your favorite food material in Nature， with a basket in your arms. It is true that Yunnan is abundant with wild fungus， but if you don’t know the tricks or have the help of a local guide， it would be nearly impossible for you to run into any fungus.
Locals make a point to eat fungus that is wild， and freshly picked. After arriving at Lijiang， Shine and her travel companions took a nearly 4-hour drive to get to their destination - a Pumi family at Luogujing clan， Desheng Village， Tongdian Township， Lanping County， Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture. Led by a guide， they clambered over 2 hours on the 2，800 meter high plateau， only to found a meager amount of fungus. No wonder， they signed with exhaustion， wild fungus is sold at sky high prices.
They choose it here because it is one of the areas that produce matsutake. Every July， you could literally smell the charming fragrance of mature fungus in the mountain ranges. The higher up the mountain， the more matsutake you would find along the trails. However， locals don’t eat matsutake much before the strong demand from Japan drove up its price， but prefer chicken fir and other fungus. As the passion for matsutake spread from Japan to China， matsutake is now as pricy as gold. The Japanese serve matsutake in sashimi or grill， but Yunnanese favor charcoal grilled matsutake， preferably with pinewood， on mild flame， and served with sea salt. Accompanied with the smell of pine and the flavor of minerals seeped into the fungus， you could feel， at the time of tasting， like being surrounded by the primitive forest.
According to the guide， fungus picking requires the right people at the right time at the right place. Wild fungus has a symbiosis relationship with the plantation over 1，000 meters above sea level. The spore of matsutake， for example， would form a symbiosis relationship with the tree roots， developing a mushroom shaped fungus root， called fungus shiro， which provides the best condition for fungus growth. Quite like human， matsutake only reveal itself to familiar acquaintances. Matsutake grows either independently or in clusters， and could be found everywhere. If you are not familiar of its growing environment， you might incidentally destroy young fungus. The locals are therefore very careful in picking fungus. They would gently remove the leaves before picking in order to protect the shiro， in the hope that they could find new fungus around in the coming year.
Fungus is fragile， rare， and hard to be found， but that might just be one of the reasons that make it delicious.
非主流的云南野生菌吃法
因为喜欢云南，李刚创立了“一坐一忘”餐厅品牌。云南不是他的故乡，却是他常常思念的地方。20年前，喜欢画画的李刚对中国传统文化及神秘的少数民族非常迷恋，于是便来到云南采风。第一次来到云南，他便喜喜欢上了那里的少数民族文化、喜欢那里的山水、人文及当地丰富多彩的美食。
在云南菜的特色食材中，李刚说菌子是最绕不过的。在云南人眼中，“蘑菇”这个字眼似乎和他们的菌子扯不上太大关系：蘑菇在哪儿都能生长、人工也可种植；而云南只有“菌”，这个“菌”字代表是野生的、独一无二的。它们埋伏在松针树下、红壤山林、马尾松下，营养丰富，不沾世俗之气。
李刚第一次吃到野生菌是在怒江州的贡山县，他吃到的是另一种享誉世界的菌类——松露。这种被称作餐桌上的钻石的珍贵食材，在云南并未受到如此礼遇，他们管松露叫“块菌”，或“猪拱菌”。最初，只有山上发情的猪才会去吃它。如今，当地人也知道了松露的价值，但吃法上并没有太多演绎，当地最常见的就是松露炖鸡，李刚说：“土鸡的浓郁香味与松露相搭倒也般配。只是，国产松露与欧洲松露因为生长环境的差异，我们吃到的松露并没有欧洲那种浓郁的香气，不过想到松露的功效，也算难得的美食了。而且，如此慷慨的，如土豆般的，炖一大锅的景象估计欧洲人想都不敢想。”
在李刚心中最令他着迷的是奶浆菌。这种小小的，呈淡棕褐色的菌菇很有个性。用指甲轻轻划破它的菌盖，马上会有像奶浆一样的液体冒出来。奶浆菌的挑选没有那么严格，就算菌盖裂开了味道也一样浓郁，一般将它切碎了和辣椒、韭菜等放在一起炒，很香很下饭，炒出来的菜也会有奶浆的颜色。
因为要为餐厅采集新鲜的菌，所以李刚也是当地市集的常客，他说，“在集市第一次看到青头菌的时候着实被它的颜色吓了一跳，一度怀疑这种菌菇是有毒的，那种淡淡的青绿色，如果不是身旁的当地人一再跟我确认它是可以食用的，我绝对不会将它买回去。”很神奇的是加上葱和蒜头爆炒之后，青头菌的淡青色便不见踪影，就像是平菇的颜色，口感非常爽滑。青头菌与云南产的皱皮椒一起炒也非常美味，皱皮椒的清香与菌类的香味刚好相得益彰，炒的时候带点汤汁，用来拌米饭保证你至少吃两碗。
这些年来，李刚为了能够给食客带来丰富的菌子食材，已经记不清楚走过多少个云南村庄，翻过多少座云南的山脉。除了大家普遍认识的野生菌羊肚菌、松茸、松露外，他更喜欢那种云南非主流的菌子，例如，去年10月份他走了趟版纳，突然发现当地盛产一种红菌，个头很大，鲜红，汤也是鲜红，叫做大红菌。另外，在大理有一座海拔2000米的鸡足山，当地出一种非常稀缺、昂贵的冷菌，据说是方丈招待侠客的一道菜。时机合适时，他便会把这种非主流的菌子引进到“一坐一忘”与有缘分的食客分享。 Unconventional Way of Eating Yunnan Wild Fungus
Because of his love of Yunnan， Li Gang created In & Out. Yunnan is not his home town， but a place he would miss often. 20 years ago， infatuated with traditional Chinese culture and the mysterious ethnic minorities， Li Gang came to Yunnan to find inspirations for his painting. It was love at first sight. During this trip， he fell in love with the mountains， waters， ethnic minority cultures， and the wide variety of food in Yunnan.
Speak of local specialty， fungus would surely come to mind， said Li Gang. In the eyes of locals， mushroom is not the same as their fungus. Mushroom can grow or be cultivated anywhere， but fungus could only be found in Yunnan. The word fungus is synonymous with wild and unique， as it is often found buried under pine leaves in red soil forests， nutritious but detached from the world.
His first taste of wild fungus was in Gongshan County of Nu Jiang Prefecture where he tasted truffle， another world famous fungus. Known as the diamond of food materials， truffle is however not getting its deserved treatment in Yunnan， where it is called “lump fungus” or “pig twiddled fungus”， because in the early days， only pigs in heat would eat the commonly fungus.
Today， the locals have learnt of its value， but haven’t developed any new way of cooking. The most common way of making truffle is to cook chicken soup. According to Li Gang， “Free range chicken is a good match for truffle. But due to the difference of growing conditions， domestic truffle is not as fragrant as European truffle. But if we count in its nutrient elements， it is still a delicious food. In addition， the Europeans would never expect to see truffle cooked in such generous quantity like it is in Yunnan.”
But Li Gang’s favorite is a mini-fungus called milky juice fungus. The tiny， light brown fungus has a unique character. Cut its cap open with finger nail， and a milky juice would ooze out. But you do not need to be picky when selecting the fungus. Cut or not， the fungus is equally tasty. Shredded and deep fried with chili and leek， it goes perfectly with steamed rice. Used as an ingredient， it will give a milky color to the dishes.
To purchase fresh fungus for the restaurant， Li Gang is a frequent guest to the local food market. “The first time I saw the green fungus， I was really startled， for a time I thought it must be poisonous， with that light green color. If not reassured by the locals that it is edible， I would definitely not buy it.” What is more amazing is that when deep fried with scallion and garlic， the green color would fade away， and it would look and taste like normal mushroom. It is also very delicious when cooked with Yunnan wrinkled chili， the juice of which could help you eat at least two bowls of rice. Over the years， Li Gang has presented a wide variety of fungus in his restaurant that is collected from countless Yunnan villages over countless mountain ranges. But apart from the well-known fungus such as yellow fungus， matsutake， and truffle， he is more into non-mainstream fungus. This October， for example， he discovered a red fungus in Xishuangbannan， a fungus that makes red soup， called big red fungus. And in the 2，000 meter Chicken Food Mountain in Dali， he run into a very rare and precious Cold Fungus， which is said to be a dish the Buddhist abbots used to serve to chivalrous swordsman. He told U-Jet that when time is ripe， he would serve this non-conventional fungus in In & Out.
离开云南的菌菜
云南人热衷于吃野生菌，在享受味蕾的快意之外，可能也是一种对故乡土地的热爱。“我们云南人每年都要好好吃上一顿野生菌，不然会觉得这一年就白生活了！“ 和雪环边做菜，边说道。 对于和雪环来说，吃野生菌，是家常便饭；做菌类菜品，更是最拿手的事情。小时候，他经常会吃到各种野生菌。家常做菌的方法很简单，刀工不用太精细，不放过多的作料，保持食物原有的味道的同时，还能够吃出大自然的味道。如今在餐厅掌勺，除了会保持食物天然且原汁原味的味道以外，也会讲究刀工和摆盘的精美。
赶上“菌子时节”时，也是和雪环给各位食客朋友们一展身手的时候。和雪环说，“菌子时节”的野生菌，肉厚肥硕，质细丝白，味道鲜甜香脆。可以单料为菜，还能与蔬菜、鱼肉及各种山珍海味搭配，无论炒、炸、腌、煎、拌、烩、烤、焖，清蒸或做汤，滋味都很鲜。北京的食客最喜欢的菌类是鸡枞，松茸，鸡油菌……这些野生菌属于大众口味，比较能够接受，比如说：烤松茸，锡纸包裹切片松茸，因为选用的是天然食材的美，所以烤也很清淡。另外还有，鲜桃仁爆野生菌，选用新鲜的鸡油菌，搭配青红椒片，轻勾薄芡，口感属于香滑明润，色金黄。
作为地道的云南本土人，和雪环还对野生菌的益处还相当有研究。他说，一般人只想到了野生菌的美味。其实，云南野生菌还含有多种营养成分，和雪环对健康、美容都有一定的作用。比如说，牛肝菌具有清热解烦、追风散寒、舒筋活血，并有抗感冒的作用；鸡枞可以增强人体免疫力，有养血、润燥、健脾胃等功效；干巴菌含有多种氨基酸、蛋白质，营养极为丰富；青头菌则有明目泻火、散热舒气的作用……即便是离开云南这些功效依然没有改变，随着交通的便捷和食客对野生菌的喜爱，在云南之外吃野生菌变得越来越容易了，这是和雪环最幸福的事。
Fungus Cuisine Outside Yunnan
Yunnan people love wild fungus， not only for palate enjoyment， but also out of love of their motherland. “We will eat a decent wild fungus banquet every year， otherwise we will consider the year wasted.” He Xuehuan said while cooking. To him， eating wild fungus is norm； making fungus cuisine is a thing he is best at. As a kid， he had tasted a lot of wild fungus. The homely way of fungus cooking is simple and requires neither refined cutting techinique nor too much ingredient， but it could keep the original flavor of the food. Now as a chef， he will not only need to preserve the authentic flavor of food materials， but will also present the dishes in an exquisite way.
The “fungus season” is the best and busiest time for He Xuehuan. “Fungus in this season is fleshy， tender， and crunchy. It could make a dish by itself， or be matched with vegetables， fish， meat， and all kinds of wild or sea food. Whether fried， deep fried， cured， mixed， braised， grilled， stewed， steamed， or made into soup， it is always that fresh. Beijing gourmets love chicken fir fungus， matsutake， and chicken oil fungus. Popular dishes include grilled matsutake， which is wrapped in tin foil to preserve its innate flavor， and deep fried wild fungus with peach kernel， which is made of fresh chicken oil fungus， green and red chili， and a light touch of starch， to create a golden color and smooth texture.
As a Yunnan native， He Xuehuan is also knowledgeable about the nutrient elements of wild fungus. Normally the public only care about the flavor of wild fungus， he said， but in fact， Yunnan wild fungus is also rich in nutritious elements that are good for health and skin. For example， boletus could expel cold， mitigate fever， and improve blood circulation； chicken fir fungus could enhance immunity， help blood generation， moisturize your body， and improve stomach and spleen wellness； dry fungus is rich in amino acid and protein； green fungus is good for eye sight and body temperature—all these functions would not disappear even if they are transported elsewhere. He is pleased to see that with today’s developed transportation means， it is getting easier for foodies to taste wild fungus outside of Yunnan.
July， August and September are the best months for fungus lovers to feast their palate with a plethora of wild Yunnan fungus that only grow at this period of the year. After a year’s waiting， fungus-craving foodies would travel all the way to Yunnan for a short stay， feed themselves everyday with a variety of fresh and tender fungus that they don’t even know the name， until they carry the aura of the mountains and exclaim， this is how “fresh” life looks like.
云南人餐桌上最不可缺的一道菜必定是野生菌，干巴菌、牛肝菌、青头菌、鸡枞菌、松茸菌……所谓“无菌不欢”。对于土生土长的云南人来说，下雨天吃菌子，是天经地义的事情，菌子就是天上掉下来的馅饼，整个夏天，仿佛随雨水和雷声而来的，全是鲜美肥嫩的菌子，找菌子也会是兼具郊游和探险于一身的有益活动，人人可得，绝无成本。只要雨过天晴，随便找个山坡，就能完成这项游玩与美食同时进行的活动。
一部《舌尖上的中国》令云南松茸红遍大江南北，但是很多人都不知道，在松茸之前，其实云南人最爱的是鸡枞菌。“鸡枞菌，秋七月生浅草中，初奋地则如笠，渐如盖，移晷纷披如鸡羽，故名鸡，以其从土出，故名枞。”肉厚肥硕，质细丝白，味道鲜甜香脆。且价格也不菲，尤其是刚上市之时，可以卖到800多元一千克。
云南拥有野生菌978种，占已知世界2166种野生菌的45%，占中国的91%，是全球野生食用菌品种和数量最多的地区之一。云南食用菌92.8%是野生食用菌，自然产量达50万吨。相比于其他野生食物，菌子营养价值高、味道鲜美，越来越受到众多食客的追捧。现在云南大部分的野生菌被空运到省外乃至国外多个地方，成为各地餐厅的珍贵食材。
Fungus is an essential ingredient in Yunnan cuisine， be it dry fungus， boletus， green fungus， or termite mushroom， fungus is a thing the locals could not “survive without” on the dinner table. For Yunnan natives， eating fungus on rainy days is something they take for granted. Fungus is a gift from the heaven. All summer， fleshy and fresh fungus arrives with rain and thunder. Fungus hunting is also a healthy sport embodying picnic and adventure， and it is cost free and accessible. As the sky clears after a shower， you can go to a slope， and start this gourmet’s game.
Matsutake is probably the most famous Yunnan fungus thanks to the documentary A Bite of China， but interestingly， chicken fir， alias termite mushroom， is the favorite fungus for locals， although lesser known to the public. “Chicken fir grows in shallow grass in July， initially in the shape of a hat， then a canopy. Under the sun， its shadow looks like chicken feathers， getting the “chicken” in its name. And because it grows out of soil， it is named after fir.” The white textured fungus is fleshy， tender， fresh， and crunchy. It is also quite expensive， with freshly picked ones selling at more than 800 yuan a kilo.
Yunnan produces the biggest variety and largest quantity of edible wild fungus in the world. It boasts of 978 varieties of wild fungus， representing 45% of the 2，166 identified wild fungus worldwide， and 91% that of China. 92.8% of the 500，000 tons annual product of edible fungus in Yunnan is wild fungus. More nutritious and fresher than other wild food materials， wild fungus has become a sought-after delicacy for more and more foodies. Most of the wild fungus in Yunnan is now air transported to other parts of the country and other countries to be served as upscale dishes in restaurants. 菌香包烧花米饭 Fungus steamed colored rice
五色花米饭是布依人的特产，不但色彩鲜艳美丽，吸收了新鲜的野生菌的香气更显浓郁。Five-colored rice is a specialty of the Buyi nationality. Steamed with fresh fungus， the rice is colorful and enticingly fragrant.
鲜菌需偶遇
对于热爱美食的Shine来说，野生菌无疑是她非常酷爱的食材之一。每一年她都要和几个美食作家一起去云南体验采菌、吃菌，能够亲自挎上小篮子上山，到大自然中去寻找自己喜欢的食材，绝对是件极其快乐的事情！不过，云南虽然是野生菌王国，漫山遍野都是菌子，可对于不会采的人，如果没有当地人当向导，想找到它们，难了！
云南人吃菌子，第一要吃野生的，第二就是要鲜菌鲜吃！空降丽江后，Shine一行人驱车近4小时才到达采菌的目的地——怒江傈僳族自治州兰坪县通甸镇德胜村罗古菁自然村一户普米人家。在这里跟着向导到山上采菌子，海拔2800多米的高原上，气喘吁吁地来回走了2个多小时，才只看到了一点点香菌，中间还攀岩爬坡的，非常辛苦。所有人都不约而同地感慨，原来采菌子如此不易，卖上天价也应该啊。
之所以选择这里，是因为这里是松茸的产地，每年7月，大山深处到处散发着菌类成熟、迷人的香气，随着他们越爬越高，山路两侧渐渐出现了诱人的松茸。其实，在日本人将松茸抬高身价之前，云南人并不喜食它，他们更爱的是鸡枞等其他菌类。随着日本人对松茸的热爱传播到中国，如今，松茸已是昂贵的食材。日本人对松茸的吃法主要是刺身或炭烤，当地人更喜欢炭烤的味道，最好用松木，慢火烤一下，蘸点海盐即可。其实，在烤的时候，就能闻到那种深山松林的味道，入口之后味道更浓郁，伴随着矿物质的芳香，有一种瞬间穿越到原始森林的奇妙感觉。
据向导介绍，采菌是一件很讲究天时、地利、人和的事，生长在海拔千米之上的野生菌与森林植被有共生关系，就拿松茸来说，松茸孢子落地后与林木的根共生，形成呈蘑菇状辐射分布的菌根，被称为“菌塘”，这样的环境才最适合松茸生长。松茸像是会认人似的，遇到不认识的人它们会躲起来，你根本就找不到它们。它们有单生的也有群生的，地里随处都会长松茸，不熟悉地形的人很容易就踩踏破坏了幼菌童茸，所以，当地人在采摘时会非常小心，轻轻扒开松叶，慢慢采摘，这样就能保护好“菌塘”，来年这个时期在这里或者这个附近还能找到它们。
或许，难寻、脆弱、稀少，这些也是野生菌美味的原因之一吧！
菜梗炒老人头菌
Deep fried catathelasma with vegetable stem
老人头菌因体短胖肥硕，菌盖厚实、菌满如老寿星的光头而得名，扎实的口感久炒依然不干不涩。The variety of catathelasma in this dish is called “old man’s head” in Chinese because with a stout and fat body and a thick cap， it looks like the bald head of the legendary God of Longevity.
A fresh encounter with fungus
As a gourmet， wild fungus is no doubt the favorite food material for Shine. Each year， he would join several other food critics to hunt and taste fungus in Yunnan. Nothing could compare to the joy of hunting for your favorite food material in Nature， with a basket in your arms. It is true that Yunnan is abundant with wild fungus， but if you don’t know the tricks or have the help of a local guide， it would be nearly impossible for you to run into any fungus.
Locals make a point to eat fungus that is wild， and freshly picked. After arriving at Lijiang， Shine and her travel companions took a nearly 4-hour drive to get to their destination - a Pumi family at Luogujing clan， Desheng Village， Tongdian Township， Lanping County， Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture. Led by a guide， they clambered over 2 hours on the 2，800 meter high plateau， only to found a meager amount of fungus. No wonder， they signed with exhaustion， wild fungus is sold at sky high prices.
They choose it here because it is one of the areas that produce matsutake. Every July， you could literally smell the charming fragrance of mature fungus in the mountain ranges. The higher up the mountain， the more matsutake you would find along the trails. However， locals don’t eat matsutake much before the strong demand from Japan drove up its price， but prefer chicken fir and other fungus. As the passion for matsutake spread from Japan to China， matsutake is now as pricy as gold. The Japanese serve matsutake in sashimi or grill， but Yunnanese favor charcoal grilled matsutake， preferably with pinewood， on mild flame， and served with sea salt. Accompanied with the smell of pine and the flavor of minerals seeped into the fungus， you could feel， at the time of tasting， like being surrounded by the primitive forest.
According to the guide， fungus picking requires the right people at the right time at the right place. Wild fungus has a symbiosis relationship with the plantation over 1，000 meters above sea level. The spore of matsutake， for example， would form a symbiosis relationship with the tree roots， developing a mushroom shaped fungus root， called fungus shiro， which provides the best condition for fungus growth. Quite like human， matsutake only reveal itself to familiar acquaintances. Matsutake grows either independently or in clusters， and could be found everywhere. If you are not familiar of its growing environment， you might incidentally destroy young fungus. The locals are therefore very careful in picking fungus. They would gently remove the leaves before picking in order to protect the shiro， in the hope that they could find new fungus around in the coming year.
Fungus is fragile， rare， and hard to be found， but that might just be one of the reasons that make it delicious.
非主流的云南野生菌吃法
因为喜欢云南，李刚创立了“一坐一忘”餐厅品牌。云南不是他的故乡，却是他常常思念的地方。20年前，喜欢画画的李刚对中国传统文化及神秘的少数民族非常迷恋，于是便来到云南采风。第一次来到云南，他便喜喜欢上了那里的少数民族文化、喜欢那里的山水、人文及当地丰富多彩的美食。
在云南菜的特色食材中，李刚说菌子是最绕不过的。在云南人眼中，“蘑菇”这个字眼似乎和他们的菌子扯不上太大关系：蘑菇在哪儿都能生长、人工也可种植；而云南只有“菌”，这个“菌”字代表是野生的、独一无二的。它们埋伏在松针树下、红壤山林、马尾松下，营养丰富，不沾世俗之气。
李刚第一次吃到野生菌是在怒江州的贡山县，他吃到的是另一种享誉世界的菌类——松露。这种被称作餐桌上的钻石的珍贵食材，在云南并未受到如此礼遇，他们管松露叫“块菌”，或“猪拱菌”。最初，只有山上发情的猪才会去吃它。如今，当地人也知道了松露的价值，但吃法上并没有太多演绎，当地最常见的就是松露炖鸡，李刚说：“土鸡的浓郁香味与松露相搭倒也般配。只是，国产松露与欧洲松露因为生长环境的差异，我们吃到的松露并没有欧洲那种浓郁的香气，不过想到松露的功效，也算难得的美食了。而且，如此慷慨的，如土豆般的，炖一大锅的景象估计欧洲人想都不敢想。”
在李刚心中最令他着迷的是奶浆菌。这种小小的，呈淡棕褐色的菌菇很有个性。用指甲轻轻划破它的菌盖，马上会有像奶浆一样的液体冒出来。奶浆菌的挑选没有那么严格，就算菌盖裂开了味道也一样浓郁，一般将它切碎了和辣椒、韭菜等放在一起炒，很香很下饭，炒出来的菜也会有奶浆的颜色。
因为要为餐厅采集新鲜的菌，所以李刚也是当地市集的常客，他说，“在集市第一次看到青头菌的时候着实被它的颜色吓了一跳，一度怀疑这种菌菇是有毒的，那种淡淡的青绿色，如果不是身旁的当地人一再跟我确认它是可以食用的，我绝对不会将它买回去。”很神奇的是加上葱和蒜头爆炒之后，青头菌的淡青色便不见踪影，就像是平菇的颜色，口感非常爽滑。青头菌与云南产的皱皮椒一起炒也非常美味，皱皮椒的清香与菌类的香味刚好相得益彰，炒的时候带点汤汁，用来拌米饭保证你至少吃两碗。
这些年来，李刚为了能够给食客带来丰富的菌子食材，已经记不清楚走过多少个云南村庄，翻过多少座云南的山脉。除了大家普遍认识的野生菌羊肚菌、松茸、松露外，他更喜欢那种云南非主流的菌子，例如，去年10月份他走了趟版纳，突然发现当地盛产一种红菌，个头很大，鲜红，汤也是鲜红，叫做大红菌。另外，在大理有一座海拔2000米的鸡足山，当地出一种非常稀缺、昂贵的冷菌，据说是方丈招待侠客的一道菜。时机合适时，他便会把这种非主流的菌子引进到“一坐一忘”与有缘分的食客分享。 Unconventional Way of Eating Yunnan Wild Fungus
Because of his love of Yunnan， Li Gang created In & Out. Yunnan is not his home town， but a place he would miss often. 20 years ago， infatuated with traditional Chinese culture and the mysterious ethnic minorities， Li Gang came to Yunnan to find inspirations for his painting. It was love at first sight. During this trip， he fell in love with the mountains， waters， ethnic minority cultures， and the wide variety of food in Yunnan.
Speak of local specialty， fungus would surely come to mind， said Li Gang. In the eyes of locals， mushroom is not the same as their fungus. Mushroom can grow or be cultivated anywhere， but fungus could only be found in Yunnan. The word fungus is synonymous with wild and unique， as it is often found buried under pine leaves in red soil forests， nutritious but detached from the world.
His first taste of wild fungus was in Gongshan County of Nu Jiang Prefecture where he tasted truffle， another world famous fungus. Known as the diamond of food materials， truffle is however not getting its deserved treatment in Yunnan， where it is called “lump fungus” or “pig twiddled fungus”， because in the early days， only pigs in heat would eat the commonly fungus.
Today， the locals have learnt of its value， but haven’t developed any new way of cooking. The most common way of making truffle is to cook chicken soup. According to Li Gang， “Free range chicken is a good match for truffle. But due to the difference of growing conditions， domestic truffle is not as fragrant as European truffle. But if we count in its nutrient elements， it is still a delicious food. In addition， the Europeans would never expect to see truffle cooked in such generous quantity like it is in Yunnan.”
But Li Gang’s favorite is a mini-fungus called milky juice fungus. The tiny， light brown fungus has a unique character. Cut its cap open with finger nail， and a milky juice would ooze out. But you do not need to be picky when selecting the fungus. Cut or not， the fungus is equally tasty. Shredded and deep fried with chili and leek， it goes perfectly with steamed rice. Used as an ingredient， it will give a milky color to the dishes.
To purchase fresh fungus for the restaurant， Li Gang is a frequent guest to the local food market. “The first time I saw the green fungus， I was really startled， for a time I thought it must be poisonous， with that light green color. If not reassured by the locals that it is edible， I would definitely not buy it.” What is more amazing is that when deep fried with scallion and garlic， the green color would fade away， and it would look and taste like normal mushroom. It is also very delicious when cooked with Yunnan wrinkled chili， the juice of which could help you eat at least two bowls of rice. Over the years， Li Gang has presented a wide variety of fungus in his restaurant that is collected from countless Yunnan villages over countless mountain ranges. But apart from the well-known fungus such as yellow fungus， matsutake， and truffle， he is more into non-mainstream fungus. This October， for example， he discovered a red fungus in Xishuangbannan， a fungus that makes red soup， called big red fungus. And in the 2，000 meter Chicken Food Mountain in Dali， he run into a very rare and precious Cold Fungus， which is said to be a dish the Buddhist abbots used to serve to chivalrous swordsman. He told U-Jet that when time is ripe， he would serve this non-conventional fungus in In & Out.
离开云南的菌菜
云南人热衷于吃野生菌，在享受味蕾的快意之外，可能也是一种对故乡土地的热爱。“我们云南人每年都要好好吃上一顿野生菌，不然会觉得这一年就白生活了！“ 和雪环边做菜，边说道。 对于和雪环来说，吃野生菌，是家常便饭；做菌类菜品，更是最拿手的事情。小时候，他经常会吃到各种野生菌。家常做菌的方法很简单，刀工不用太精细，不放过多的作料，保持食物原有的味道的同时，还能够吃出大自然的味道。如今在餐厅掌勺，除了会保持食物天然且原汁原味的味道以外，也会讲究刀工和摆盘的精美。
赶上“菌子时节”时，也是和雪环给各位食客朋友们一展身手的时候。和雪环说，“菌子时节”的野生菌，肉厚肥硕，质细丝白，味道鲜甜香脆。可以单料为菜，还能与蔬菜、鱼肉及各种山珍海味搭配，无论炒、炸、腌、煎、拌、烩、烤、焖，清蒸或做汤，滋味都很鲜。北京的食客最喜欢的菌类是鸡枞，松茸，鸡油菌……这些野生菌属于大众口味，比较能够接受，比如说：烤松茸，锡纸包裹切片松茸，因为选用的是天然食材的美，所以烤也很清淡。另外还有，鲜桃仁爆野生菌，选用新鲜的鸡油菌，搭配青红椒片，轻勾薄芡，口感属于香滑明润，色金黄。
作为地道的云南本土人，和雪环还对野生菌的益处还相当有研究。他说，一般人只想到了野生菌的美味。其实，云南野生菌还含有多种营养成分，和雪环对健康、美容都有一定的作用。比如说，牛肝菌具有清热解烦、追风散寒、舒筋活血，并有抗感冒的作用；鸡枞可以增强人体免疫力，有养血、润燥、健脾胃等功效；干巴菌含有多种氨基酸、蛋白质，营养极为丰富；青头菌则有明目泻火、散热舒气的作用……即便是离开云南这些功效依然没有改变，随着交通的便捷和食客对野生菌的喜爱，在云南之外吃野生菌变得越来越容易了，这是和雪环最幸福的事。
Fungus Cuisine Outside Yunnan
Yunnan people love wild fungus， not only for palate enjoyment， but also out of love of their motherland. “We will eat a decent wild fungus banquet every year， otherwise we will consider the year wasted.” He Xuehuan said while cooking. To him， eating wild fungus is norm； making fungus cuisine is a thing he is best at. As a kid， he had tasted a lot of wild fungus. The homely way of fungus cooking is simple and requires neither refined cutting techinique nor too much ingredient， but it could keep the original flavor of the food. Now as a chef， he will not only need to preserve the authentic flavor of food materials， but will also present the dishes in an exquisite way.
The “fungus season” is the best and busiest time for He Xuehuan. “Fungus in this season is fleshy， tender， and crunchy. It could make a dish by itself， or be matched with vegetables， fish， meat， and all kinds of wild or sea food. Whether fried， deep fried， cured， mixed， braised， grilled， stewed， steamed， or made into soup， it is always that fresh. Beijing gourmets love chicken fir fungus， matsutake， and chicken oil fungus. Popular dishes include grilled matsutake， which is wrapped in tin foil to preserve its innate flavor， and deep fried wild fungus with peach kernel， which is made of fresh chicken oil fungus， green and red chili， and a light touch of starch， to create a golden color and smooth texture.
As a Yunnan native， He Xuehuan is also knowledgeable about the nutrient elements of wild fungus. Normally the public only care about the flavor of wild fungus， he said， but in fact， Yunnan wild fungus is also rich in nutritious elements that are good for health and skin. For example， boletus could expel cold， mitigate fever， and improve blood circulation； chicken fir fungus could enhance immunity， help blood generation， moisturize your body， and improve stomach and spleen wellness； dry fungus is rich in amino acid and protein； green fungus is good for eye sight and body temperature—all these functions would not disappear even if they are transported elsewhere. He is pleased to see that with today’s developed transportation means， it is getting easier for foodies to taste wild fungus outside of Yunnan.