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齐美尔的《时尚的哲学》是时尚研究领域中的一个开创性贡献。围绕它,学界形成了过时论和修正论两条思路。本文通过重返经典文本,在澄清后人误读的基础上,就时尚研究的阶级分野论提出新观点,同时揭示该论点得以成立的条件。文章还从辩证论的人性观和形式社会学两个角度审视了时尚研究在齐美尔理论体系中的位置,结尾就这种理论分析的做法做了方法论的反思。
Simmel’s “philosophy of fashion” is a groundbreaking contribution in the field of fashion research. Around it, the academia formed two ideas of outdated theory and revision. By returning to the classic texts, this article, based on the clarification of misreading by the posterity, puts forward new ideas on the theory of class division of fashion studies and at the same time reveals the conditions for the establishment of this thesis. The article also examines the position of fashion studies in Simmel’s theoretical system from the dialectical perspectives of human nature and formal sociology, and ends with a methodological reflection on this theoretical analysis.