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The world’s most beautiful voyage
It’s hard to imagine that until the late nineteenth century, there was no daily, year-round ship service along Norway’s western coast. To send a letter from Trondheim in the center of the country to Hammerfest above the Arctic Circle took as long as three weeks in the summer and five months in the winter! Why so long? The coast had few lighthouses and there were only two marine charts of the route, which made it difficult to navigate, especially amidst the many islands and skerries in the dark, sometimes stormy, winter months.
Nevertheless, Norway’s national steamship advisor called for an express ship service between Trondheim and Hammerfest. And Captain Richard With took up the challenge. He’d often sailed the route, and with his pilots, kept notes on courses, speeds, and times. So on the morning of July 2, 1893, he set off in the steamship Vesteralen, and three days later reached Hammerfest. The ship’s arrival sparked a revolution in Norwegian communications, finally connecting coastal inhabitants and industries to the rest of the world. By 1898, the route had been lengthened to start at Bergen in the south, extending northward to Kirkenes, far above the Arctic Circle.
From the beginning, the operators of the Coastal Voyage, or “Hurtigruten” in Norwegian, recognized its tourist potential. What better way to experience the Land of the Midnight Sun and Northern Lights? Such remote wonders as the ravishing Lofoten Islands with their red and gold cabins, brilliant white sand beaches, and “lynx foot” peaks, the Trollfjord with its narrow rocky gateway, and Finnmark with its wild, austere landscape and indigenous Sami people were now readily accessible to travelers.
Today, thousands of people come from across the globe to sail what has been called “The World’s Most Beautiful Voyage” and to explore Norway’s coastal communities and meet their inhabitants. (They’re easy to chat with; just about everyone in Norway speaks fluent English!) There’s the added charm of traveling on vessels that, while affording all the comforts of a cruise ship, still convey cargo to 34 ports of call every day, all the year round. Equally quaint is the occasional arrival of a local, hopping a ride from one coastal town to another.
Yet there is nothing work-a-day about this voyage. Passengers are dazzled by an ever-changing landscape of sapphire fjords and snow-capped peaks, quaint farms nestled amidst verdant hills and bustling fishing villages hugging the rugged coast. If they like, they may also venture inland to see historic sites and unusual museums. By the time their journey is over, they will have glimpsed the sweep of Norwegian history from the Vikings to modern times.
Norway’s majestic, unspoilt landscape has earned it the ranking of the world’s top destination by National Geographic Traveler magazine. And the Hurtigruten heads the Lonely Planet Guide’s Blue List for classic voyages. Yes, this is indeed a trip for sophisticated travelers, for those who have experienced the best the world offers. Which may be why passengers so often end up making lasting friendships with those they meet on board.
很难想像，直到19世纪，挪威的西海岸都没有全年不断、每天一班的轮渡服务。从这个国家中部的特隆赫姆往北极圈的哈默菲斯特寄信，夏天要3个星期，冬天要5个月。为什么要花费这么长的时间？海岸边没有什么灯塔，人们手里也只有2幅航海图，这都让在冬日阴暗、有时风暴连天的天气状况下在那么多的海岛和礁石间穿行显得特别困难。
然而，挪威的国家汽轮顾问要求在特隆赫姆与哈默菲斯特之间开办快船服务。理查德船长接受了这一挑战。他经常和他的领航员们在这条路线上航行，记录航线、速度和时间。1893年7月2日，他驾驶着蒸汽船“瓦斯特拉伦”号，三天就到达了哈默菲斯特。这一航班的到达标志着挪威在交通方面的革命性突破，终于把海岸线的居民和工业与世界其他地区连接到一起。到1898年，这一航线已扩展到南边的波根，北至北极圈腹地的科科恩斯。
从一开始，沿海航行——挪威语称“赫特格鲁滕”——的营运者，认识到了这一航线具备的旅游潜质。有什么更好的方式能够体验午夜的阳光和北极光下的大陆呢？引人入胜的罗浮藤岛上的红色、金色的小屋，耀眼的白沙滩，那“猞猁足”山峰，峡湾处狭窄的怪石门关，狂野但不失简约的地形地貌，以及本地的萨米人，旅途中美景尽收眼底。
今天，世界各地成千上万的人们来此，坐船体验“世界上最美的航行”，探寻挪威海岸的社区，和当地居民闲聊（他们非常平和，而且挪威几乎每一个人都能说流利的英语！）。在游轮上舒舒服服的度假固然惬意，更富魅力的是，这一航线全年、每天都把34 个港口的货运联系到了一起。更有意思的是，不时会有当地人跳上船来，从一个港口到另一个港口。
不过，对于航程中的人们而言，这一段旅途没有什么好劳累的。崎岖的海岸线上满是蓝宝石般的峡湾，雪顶重压的山峰，翠绿的山峦间散布的精巧的农家小屋，熙熙攘攘的渔村，这些不断变幻的景色都让游客们目不暇接。如果他们愿意，大陆内地的历史遗迹和非同寻常的博物馆也对他们开放。当这段旅程结束时，他们已经对挪威从海盗时代到现代的变迁有了自己的一丝体会。
《国家地理旅行者》杂志把挪威宏伟、未受破坏的美景评为了世界之最。《孤单星球导航》杂志的“蓝色名录”则把“赫特格鲁滕”评为了经典航程。诚然，这些都是那些曾经见过世界上最美风景的老“驴友”的不二选择。而这，也就是为什么他们能够在这段航程遇到自己一生都会眷恋的朋友的原因。
It’s hard to imagine that until the late nineteenth century, there was no daily, year-round ship service along Norway’s western coast. To send a letter from Trondheim in the center of the country to Hammerfest above the Arctic Circle took as long as three weeks in the summer and five months in the winter! Why so long? The coast had few lighthouses and there were only two marine charts of the route, which made it difficult to navigate, especially amidst the many islands and skerries in the dark, sometimes stormy, winter months.
Nevertheless, Norway’s national steamship advisor called for an express ship service between Trondheim and Hammerfest. And Captain Richard With took up the challenge. He’d often sailed the route, and with his pilots, kept notes on courses, speeds, and times. So on the morning of July 2, 1893, he set off in the steamship Vesteralen, and three days later reached Hammerfest. The ship’s arrival sparked a revolution in Norwegian communications, finally connecting coastal inhabitants and industries to the rest of the world. By 1898, the route had been lengthened to start at Bergen in the south, extending northward to Kirkenes, far above the Arctic Circle.
From the beginning, the operators of the Coastal Voyage, or “Hurtigruten” in Norwegian, recognized its tourist potential. What better way to experience the Land of the Midnight Sun and Northern Lights? Such remote wonders as the ravishing Lofoten Islands with their red and gold cabins, brilliant white sand beaches, and “lynx foot” peaks, the Trollfjord with its narrow rocky gateway, and Finnmark with its wild, austere landscape and indigenous Sami people were now readily accessible to travelers.
Today, thousands of people come from across the globe to sail what has been called “The World’s Most Beautiful Voyage” and to explore Norway’s coastal communities and meet their inhabitants. (They’re easy to chat with; just about everyone in Norway speaks fluent English!) There’s the added charm of traveling on vessels that, while affording all the comforts of a cruise ship, still convey cargo to 34 ports of call every day, all the year round. Equally quaint is the occasional arrival of a local, hopping a ride from one coastal town to another.
Yet there is nothing work-a-day about this voyage. Passengers are dazzled by an ever-changing landscape of sapphire fjords and snow-capped peaks, quaint farms nestled amidst verdant hills and bustling fishing villages hugging the rugged coast. If they like, they may also venture inland to see historic sites and unusual museums. By the time their journey is over, they will have glimpsed the sweep of Norwegian history from the Vikings to modern times.
Norway’s majestic, unspoilt landscape has earned it the ranking of the world’s top destination by National Geographic Traveler magazine. And the Hurtigruten heads the Lonely Planet Guide’s Blue List for classic voyages. Yes, this is indeed a trip for sophisticated travelers, for those who have experienced the best the world offers. Which may be why passengers so often end up making lasting friendships with those they meet on board.
很难想像，直到19世纪，挪威的西海岸都没有全年不断、每天一班的轮渡服务。从这个国家中部的特隆赫姆往北极圈的哈默菲斯特寄信，夏天要3个星期，冬天要5个月。为什么要花费这么长的时间？海岸边没有什么灯塔，人们手里也只有2幅航海图，这都让在冬日阴暗、有时风暴连天的天气状况下在那么多的海岛和礁石间穿行显得特别困难。
然而，挪威的国家汽轮顾问要求在特隆赫姆与哈默菲斯特之间开办快船服务。理查德船长接受了这一挑战。他经常和他的领航员们在这条路线上航行，记录航线、速度和时间。1893年7月2日，他驾驶着蒸汽船“瓦斯特拉伦”号，三天就到达了哈默菲斯特。这一航班的到达标志着挪威在交通方面的革命性突破，终于把海岸线的居民和工业与世界其他地区连接到一起。到1898年，这一航线已扩展到南边的波根，北至北极圈腹地的科科恩斯。
从一开始，沿海航行——挪威语称“赫特格鲁滕”——的营运者，认识到了这一航线具备的旅游潜质。有什么更好的方式能够体验午夜的阳光和北极光下的大陆呢？引人入胜的罗浮藤岛上的红色、金色的小屋，耀眼的白沙滩，那“猞猁足”山峰，峡湾处狭窄的怪石门关，狂野但不失简约的地形地貌，以及本地的萨米人，旅途中美景尽收眼底。
今天，世界各地成千上万的人们来此，坐船体验“世界上最美的航行”，探寻挪威海岸的社区，和当地居民闲聊（他们非常平和，而且挪威几乎每一个人都能说流利的英语！）。在游轮上舒舒服服的度假固然惬意，更富魅力的是，这一航线全年、每天都把34 个港口的货运联系到了一起。更有意思的是，不时会有当地人跳上船来，从一个港口到另一个港口。
不过，对于航程中的人们而言，这一段旅途没有什么好劳累的。崎岖的海岸线上满是蓝宝石般的峡湾，雪顶重压的山峰，翠绿的山峦间散布的精巧的农家小屋，熙熙攘攘的渔村，这些不断变幻的景色都让游客们目不暇接。如果他们愿意，大陆内地的历史遗迹和非同寻常的博物馆也对他们开放。当这段旅程结束时，他们已经对挪威从海盗时代到现代的变迁有了自己的一丝体会。
《国家地理旅行者》杂志把挪威宏伟、未受破坏的美景评为了世界之最。《孤单星球导航》杂志的“蓝色名录”则把“赫特格鲁滕”评为了经典航程。诚然，这些都是那些曾经见过世界上最美风景的老“驴友”的不二选择。而这，也就是为什么他们能够在这段航程遇到自己一生都会眷恋的朋友的原因。