As t he f i rst Chinese men’s clothing brand marching into London Fashion Week this late February, EVE CINA, attracted eyeballs from all over the world, and this is the only Chinese menswear brand that showed alongside other UK high-end brands such as Antoni & Alison, Vivienne Westwood, Mulberry. How was the journey for Beijing-based EVE to go to London? China’s Foreign Trade had an interview with Xia Hua, Chairman of EVE Group to learn more.
　　 The preparation was full of moving stories
　　Xia Hua, relaxed and gentle, recalled how all of this started to the journalist. Last January the Chinese embassy in the UK and the London Fashion Week jointly invited EVE CINA to the London Fashion Week. They wanted EVE CINA, on behalf of Chinese menswear brands, to stage a “mountain-water”themed fashion show by incorporating Chinese elements in joint hands with a famous ladies wear brand called EXCEPTION de MIXMIND.
　　Xia Hua rejoiced at the news but also felt a lot of pressure. EVE CINA received close attention from the fashion circle in London when the news spread. More importantly, with only one month away from the London Fashion Week, the time was pressing. Unfortunately, the tight schedule of EVE CINA was interrupted by the Chinese Lunar New Year holiday when the partner factories of EVE CINA were having a break. As a result, the designers and technician groups who participated in the show had to cancel the holiday to reunite with their families and work overtime to produce ready-to-wear clothing. Recalling the hardships they went through in preparing for the show, Xia Hua was frequently overcome with emotions, “even the over-70-year-old Su Embroidery master helped EVE CINA during the holiday, so I was moved at every product that was made.”
　　As one of the four most renowned fashion weeks, the London Fashion Week usually attracts the best models around the world. After EVE CINA announced to take part in the London Fashion Week, overseas public relations firms provided a long list of models who often model for top fashion brands. Meanwhile, many domestic models volunteered to model for EVE CINA, hoping to have a chance to display Chinese fashion on the international stage. Finally, the task of delivering the “mountainwater” themed fashion show fell on the shoulder of the “Supermodel Group”which included Li Zhen, Meng Fei, Du Shibo and so on. Both the opening and wrapping up part were completed by Chinese models. Xia Hua said those models that had long-term cooperation with EVE CINA knew better what EVE CINA intended to express and thus could better demonstrate the flavor of Chinese design.
　　Among the dozens of domestic and foreign models performing the“mountain-water” themed show, Chinese models impressed the audience with their outstanding modeling. They even received compliments from Liu Xiaoming, ambassador of Chinese embassy in the UK. He said, “When I saw Li Zhen make a grand appearance on the stage, I was convinced that the show would be a great success.” Indeed, compared with foreign models, Chinese “Supermodel Group”was more devoted to work and deserved recognition for their efforts. Because of the busy schedule of the London Fashion Week, models more than often had to hurry from one show to another. Xia Hua remembered that Chinese models looked more attentive and conscientious than foreign models even during making up and waiting.
　　 Chinese fashion overwhelmed London
　　At 7 p.m. of London time on February 17th, the painstakingly prepared and long expected London Fashion Week kicked off the catwalk shows. Western people were amazed at the exotic appeal of Chinese fashion. A great many media, designers, professional buyers and other guests from the fashion circle attended the debut show of EVE CINA as well as the static exhibition. Xia Hua mentioned that she could never forget the encouragement from three people: Martin Davidson, Chief Executive of the British Council, Harold Tillman, Chairman of the British Fashion Council, and Lord Howell, Minister of State at the Foreign and Commonwealth Office.
　　After watching the “mountainwater” themed fashion show of EVE CINA, Martin Davidson said to Xia Hua, “The show gave me the opportunity to know more of the original Chinese garments. I recognize the outstanding charm of Chinese brands and gain a real understanding of Chinese clothing.”Harold Tillman expressed his admiration for the original Chinese clothing in front of media and said it was beyond his imagination and had great commercial as well as practical values.
　　Lord Howell, Minister of State at the Foreign and Commonwealth Office, was definitely a distinguished guest at the fashion show. Following the “Mountain-Water” show, Lord Howell said to Xia Hua emotionally, “I have seen many fashion shows in my life, but only two of them left me deep impression. And one is today’s ‘Mountain-Water’ show.”
　　In the eyes of Xia Hua, the encouragement from those world-renowned professionals carry great significance for Chinese fashion brands. She said that the glamour of EVE CINA at the London Fashion Week should not fade away just like the brilliant fireworks at fashion shows did but rather should blaze a trail for Chinese brands to tap into the overseas market. It was not just a fashion show. More importantly, it presented an opportunity to cast new light on Chinese brands on the global stage.
　　After the show, many of the fashion buyers approached Xia Hua and showed interest in cooperation. Xia Hua said this year would see substantial progress regarding the cooperation with those buyers.
　　


　　 Chinese clothing craftsmanship and innovation starts to play a role in the international fashion arena
　　At the London Fashion Week, EVE CINA released 40 suits of clothing. The outline and stitching of all the clothing were made with exquisite craftsmanship: the refined aesthetic and texture patterns come from the exquisite craftsmanship of embedded embroidery masters; the innovative stitching skill of“hand-sewing” brings forth the unique fabric’s texture; moreover, all the buttons are carefully carved from black jade; on the buttons that only a few millimeters wide are inscribed mountain and water landscapes and typical symbols of Chinese culture.
　　The floor of the static exhibition hall of EVE CINA was spread with over 200 kilograms of flower tea and bamboos were used as prop stands for some costumes. The sight and the aura of the exhibition hall mesmerized visitors. Some visitors followed the scent into the hall and even screamed upon stepping into the hall. With a big smile on her face, Xia Hua described to the journalist what it was like, “They were overwhelmed by the craftsmanship and innovation of Chinese garments. The traditional Chinese craftsmanship starts to play a role in the international fashion arena.”
　　Xia Hua told the journalist that the fashion show not only displayed the outline and the design of apparels but also showcased traditional Chinese culture: the minimalist tailoring style express the relaxed and natural Chinese philosophy of life.
　　According to Xia Hua, there must be a core value that could prop up the future development of Chinese clothing brands. Xia Hua explained to the journalist what she thought of “Qi”, “Upon hearing the word ‘Qi’, Chinese people will think of many things such as air, presence, vehemence, temperament, etc. But you have to explain it little by little to foreigners. Chinese people emphasize the art of living. Even housewives in the countryside have a great aesthetic taste. I have seen splendid three dimensional structures and color matching in folk embroidery products. This kind of exquisiteness finds expression in every aspect of life. Things as simple as a chair are made to promote health. In light of the Yellow Emperor’s Inner Canon, an ancient Chinese medical text, chairs are made to respond to body venation. It might be said that Chinese people’s philosophy of life is one of a kind in the world. EVE CINA incorporates Chinese philosophy of life into apparel. For instance, black jade carved buttons and handmade knot buttons on the chest are resulted from assimilating traditional Chinese craftsmanship into modern fashion.”
　　Nowadays, foreigners are more and more into oriental style clothing. Traditional Chinese tailoring techniques has begun to be in spotlight in the international arena. Xia Hua said that in recent years Chinese elements and Chinese concepts have been either used as a source of inspiration or design elements by a host of luxury brands. But they are just “snapshots” of Chinese culture. Xia Hua believed that we should ponder over how each item or detail is employed to express Chinese flavor and at least we should make the world contemplate over the core value of Chinese brands. Xia Hua added that now many Western fashion designers are studying Chinese tailoring techniques. The details of EVE CINA costumes received a lot of attention from the London fashion circle, including the re-design of cloth, the special sewing skill and other handicrafts. EVE CINA incorporates more and more Chinese techniques into fashion, striving to better blend the Chinese and Western elements in clothing.
　　 Come for you and leave with you
　　Speaking of the intent of the London trip, Xia Hua said the fashion show was a key step in connecting Chinese and world fashion industries. She continued to say that the ultimate goal of EVE CINA is to bring brands to con- sumers and connect with them.
　　Today, people interpret brands not only from apparel but also from the aspect of life. Consumption is not as simple as a one-time shopping, but epitomizes people’s aspiration for a better life. European consumers appreciate a brand from its culture. Xia Hua spoke frankly about her achievements. Her biggest dream is no longer making bigger business. How big a business could be? She said the key point is that your brand could represent China. The bottom line is whether your brand could live honorably in the heart of consumers for long. The strength of your brand relies on how many people come for you and leave with you.
　　Actually international brands differ little in designs, but a lot in expressions. “If we want to build Chinese brands into top international brands, the prerequisite is to win over the world. We put every effort into our culture, tell our stories to others and try to strike a chord with consumers. Chinese fashion attitude has changed and is not simply about influencing the world with Chinese elements. Chinese people want to interpret a fashion brand from its culture and enchant others with a good story so that all of world would be willing to pay high price for the products. We were losers in terms of marketing although we had competitive products and even designs.”Xia Hua described to journalist what“international brands” mean to her.
　　Only when your designers truly understand the market can your brand sparkle and shine. Xia Hua told the journalist, “Currently, EVE CINA owns more than one hundred designers. I often tell them that designers are totally dif- ferent from artists. For example, Vincent van Gogh tried to express himself in his art. In contrast, designers need others to convey the beauty of their designs and thus have to read the mind of consumers. Only by this can they give expression to beauty.” Just as Xia Hua commented, the money you spend on consumers will decide the lifespan of your brand. How
　　far you can see depends on the perspective you take. Innovation that has been talked so much about in the fashion field is nothing but innovation of design. Design has been assumed to be the core competitiveness. If you adopt designers’attitude and view things from the professional angle, you won’t see far because you are standing on the corner. Service design offers a new perspective. If you put yourself in the consumers’ shoes, you will find that consumers are more sensitive to service than products.
　　


　　“Heart is the closest to consumers’purse,” Xia Hua summarized her understanding of design and market. Chewing over it, we realized the truth behind her words. Every designer should learn to be around others and consumers, look into their mind and give expression to it. Only through this could they realize their commercial value. Different times have different demands for designers, so designers should meet the changing demand by sharpening their professional skills. All the great designers have to rely on others to wear their designs and realize their value. Simply speaking, brands in order to leave a long lasting impression on consumers have to constantly innovate designs and thrill the market.
　　When asked about the discrepant excellence between Chinese and international designers, Xia Hua gave great credit to Chinese designers. She said,“Many of the EVE CINA designers show strong competitiveness and are shrewd in detecting the market. But they lack global vision and appropriate methods.”The London Fashion Week static exhibition exposed the shortcomings. She added, “It was our first time to deliver a static exhibition at the London Fashion Week. We were new at it and attempted to make the exhibition grand, the costumes impeccable and even the layout of the exhibition hall captivating. But after viewing the products of Korean designers, we really understood why the London Fashion Week is considered the most innovative among the four biggest international fashion weeks.” In the view of Xia Hua, Korean designers won by dint of their innovative idea of boundlessness. The judge panel also agreed that the innovation of Korean designers carries a strong sense of future consciousness and conforms to the innovation-prioritized purpose of the London Fashion Week. She hoped that Chinese designers would have more opportunities to appear in international fashion arena and constantly broaden their global vision and truly go global.