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只有大气中猛然的扰动才形成惊涛骇浪,因而两个低气压系统在美国阿拉斯加湾发生交会,便形成了一场硕大无朋的风暴。大风狂吹不止,沿开阔的洋面长驱南下,横扫上千英里,一路卷起重重巨涌。在距海湾南方1800英里的加利福尼亚州皮勒角沿海,有一处水很浅的水下岩架。这是个著名的断裂口,因它掀起的风流,据冲浪者所知是世上最大的轩然大波而被称作“牛犊场”。此时,涌浪正径直向这儿疾奔而来。
Only a sudden disturbance in the atmosphere formed a stormy sea, so the two low-pressure systems met at the Gulf of Alaska in the United States, forming a gigantic storm. Gale frenzied not only, along the open ocean south long drive, swept thousands of miles, all the way rolled heavy Ju Chung. At 1800 miles south of the Gulf of California off the Capelle, California, there is a very shallow sub-surface rock. It is a well-known break because of the winds it has set off, known as the “calf field” by what surfers know as the biggest uproar in the world. At this moment, the surge waved straight to here.