食物和民族性(ethnieity)的关系及民族烹饪对涵化(acculturation)的回弹力(resi-lience)一直为人们所注意,但迄今还未对这些事实作出解释。在社会科学领域里,对食物和烹饪的忽视已成为各学科较普遍存在的空白点之一,这种情况妨碍人们弄清人类文化的固有根源。对这种普遍的忽视,当然也有例外。在研究食物问题的社会科学家中,法国人是杰出的,并很有见解。在法国最杰出的学者中,莱维-斯特劳斯(1964年,1968年)强调指出 The relationship between food and ethnieity, and the resi-lience of national cooking for acculturation, have drawn attention, but so far these facts have not been explained. In the social sciences, the neglect of food and cooking has become one of the more common gaps in all disciplines, a situation that prevents people from figuring out the inherent roots of human culture. Of course, there are exceptions to this widespread neglect. The French are outstanding and insightful among the social scientists who study the food problem. Among the most eminent scholars in France, Levi-Strauss (1964, 1968) emphasized that