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我游览过中国的十三陵和东陵、埃及的金字塔、英国的威斯敏斯特教堂、梵蒂冈大教堂，亲眼目睹了各国古代帝王、教皇和高贵名人的墓葬。我也听说罗马尼亚有个“快乐墓地”，它的最大特点是每块墓碑上都刻有幽默、快乐的碑文，给活着的人以快乐，至于坟墓建得如何，我没见过。倒是阿根廷首都布宜诺斯艾利斯市中心的一块墓地，让我记忆犹新。
到布宜诺斯艾利斯旅游，导游往往会推荐你游览位于市中心的雷科莱塔公墓，说是很特别。我曾两次去过雷科莱塔公墓，第一次是阿根廷接待方安排去的，第二次是我建议大家去的。
在布宜诺斯艾利斯市中心，在商店和高级住宅包围中的雷科莱塔公墓，建有高高的围墙，高大豪华的大门口不会使人想到里面是墓地。跨进大门口，正中央的地上镶嵌着一块铜牌，标着四个阿拉伯数字——“1822”。导游让我们猜这4个阿拉伯数字的含意。我们很自然就猜中那是建立墓地的时间。
建立于1822年的这块墓地，是由一个教堂的后花园改建的，占地10英亩(约60市亩)，目前葬有大约7000位阿根廷社会历代精英，其中有23位阿根廷正副总统。这些死者的身份决定了葬在公墓里的人不可能是一般平民，而是达官显贵。在阿根廷，贵族身份是很严格的，需要其家族拥有十世以上的贵族荣耀保持，非“暴发户”可以偶然“入流”。因此，雷科莱塔公墓自诞生起就奠定了其“贵族血统”。但雷科莱塔公墓的特别之处主要不在于其“贵族血统”，而在于其坟墓建筑。这也是雷科莱塔公墓给我印象深刻的地方。从大门往里走，迎面是一幢幢排列整齐有序的宫殿般小楼。一条条约两三米宽的水泥通道纵横交错，路边种有许多几十年甚至上百年树龄的树木，“街道”呈井字型，另有4条对角线斜街，里面俨然是一个浓缩的街区。
小楼与正常房屋相仿，只是宽度、高度按比例缩小。有华丽的门面，大理石贴墙，许多门口镶着人物、动物浮雕，铁制大栅门。室内布置得富贵逼人，彩色地砖、水晶吊灯、台灯等家什十分齐全，还有镀金、镏金甚至纯金的装饰，用料精美，设计别致，而且绝无雷同，风格迥异。游人站在门口，透过玻璃门或窗户往里面望去，里面的摆设一目了然，也依稀可见一具具精美的棺材一层层地叠放着——按照家族成员的去世时间顺序自下而上叠放。要不是看到棺材，人们不会觉得这是坟墓。其实，小楼就是坟墓，由其所有者家族世代所有，自行设计、布局和装饰，风格多为哥特式，大的占地有数十平方米，小的仅几平方米，以两层的为多，三层的也有，有的还有地下室，上下楼的楼梯也与真的一样。陵墓似一座座缩小版的宫殿，静穆而肃然。
一般来说，到墓地，人们都会觉得阴森和沉郁。但到雷科莱塔公墓，大家根本没有这种感觉，反而像是在参观雕塑博物馆。在雷科莱塔墓园，到处都是雕塑，其中不乏欧洲名家构思奇特、寓意无穷的雕塑精品，有勇武的猛士、有柔媚的女神。除西方传说中的守护神雕塑外，有些雕塑还富有生活气息，如侍女、小童和猫狗，殿檐上还有吉祥天使等。有的陵墓还有画卷般的叙事雕塑，追叙几代人的奋斗史，用雕塑来表现其思想特征和行为特色，记录家族的兴旺历程。有的墓室里面也有各式各样的雕塑，有些是遗像，有些是神话中保护天使的雕像。这些充满灵性的雕塑陪伴着死者度过了一个个寂寞的春秋冬夏。
雕塑赋予了雷科莱塔墓园一种灵性。墓主们生活态度的表达和雕塑艺术的结合，饱含着文化的、艺术的无穷韵味。这种难以模仿的艺术装点是墓园的精华所在，也是其最特别的地方。环视小楼般的坟墓，恍惚间我们觉得自己不是置身于墓园中，而是到了一座雕塑公园。精美的建筑充满着灵气，让游人享受着浪漫艺术。
公墓的艺术气息解答了我们的一些疑问。我们有的人说，在几千个死人旁喝咖啡、居住，阿根廷人不忌讳吗?正是这个公墓建筑所具有的人文情怀，使阿根廷人少了些忌讳，多了些亲近。使阿根廷人与这些死人为邻的另一个重要原因，是阿根廷人认为这里是块风水宝地，在周边做生意可以沾染“贵气”。因此，此地人气格外兴旺。每到周末，公墓外的法兰西广场会聚集上百个各色手工艺品小摊主，组成了布宜诺斯艾利斯最著名的特色集市。
我们的阿根廷历史博士生导游特意带我们参观了一下“贝隆夫人”的墓地。“贝隆夫人”在阿根廷历史上具有重要意义，在雷科莱塔公墓也是最有影响的。因此，来雷科莱塔公墓参观者总会来看看“贝隆夫人”。
“贝隆夫人”是阿根廷总统胡安·贝隆的第二任妻子。她积极支持丈夫竞选总统，在丈夫当选为总统后，从事政府工作，在阿根廷国家事务中起了重要的作用，深受阿根廷人的崇拜。她于1952年33岁时因病死亡，死后16年才被葬到雷科莱塔公墓。在阿根廷，没有一个像她那么短暂的生命却对历史产生了深远的影响。她是阿根廷人的骄傲。
她的陵墓并没有想象中的壮观，也没有任何特别的标志，只是位于雷科莱塔公墓一条极其普通的墓道旁。这是她父亲家族的墓地。在U形的陵墓黑色大理石门框左侧，一小块长方形铜板雕刻着她的名字和头像。对于她的贵族家族而言，她的地位从不显赫，甚至曾经被怀疑过她的血统是否正宗。时至今日，这已不重要。重要的是有大量的阿根廷人民前来陵墓拜谒她，也有许多外国人来看她。她的墓前，总会摆着一些鲜花，从不间断。据说，有一位70多岁的耄耋老人，每天清晨都会来到贝隆夫人的陵墓前，如痴如醉地拉上一曲小提琴，仿佛想通过音乐向墓中的灵魂传递情感，场面十分温馨而感人。□
Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
By Luo Haiying
In my world tours, I have visited quite a few mausoleums and witnessed the regal grandeur of the 13 Ming Tombs in Beijing, the pyramids in Egypt, the Westminster Abbey, and Vatican. Recoleta Cemetery in the exclusive Recoleta neighborhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina, however, appeals to me in a special way.
To those who tour Buenos Aires, the Recoleta Cemetery in downtown is always recommended. And fortunately, I have visited the famous cemetery twice.
Located in the heart of Buenos Aires, the cemetery is encircled by a high wall. The magnificent gates suggest nobleness and art rather than an ordinary cemetery.
It was a garden of a church and got converted into the Recoleta Cemetery in 1822. The 14,000-acre cemetery is now the final resting place of about 7,000 Argentines of greatest prestige and power of Buenos Aires including 23 presidents and vice presidents.
The first time I stepped through the gates I saw the number 1822 etched on a bronze plate. The guide asked us to guess what the number meant. All of us figured it out pretty soon. The guide said that commoners and upstarts wouldn’t have a chance to be buried there.
I was not particularly impressed by the noble pedigrees featured by the cemetery, but I was fascinated by the architectural splendor of the mausoleums and the layout of the cemetery. The cemetery is laid out in sections like city blocks, with wide tree-lined main walkways stretching away into sidewalks flanked by mausoleums. The walkways and sidewalks form a grid, crisscrossed by four diagonal walkways. The mausoleums look like palaces in miniaturized proportions. A mausoleum can have a door, marble walls, sculptures of humans and animals, iron gates. I sidled up to a house and looked into the window. Inside were miniature furniture, colored ground tiles, crystal chandeliers and table lamps. Inside you can see coffins laid out one upon another in the chronological order of deaths. Only these coffins made me aware that I was visiting a cemetery. Most mausoleums are two-story structures. Some even have basements.
The Recoleta Cemetery does not look somber and melancholy. It looks like an open museum of sculptures. Sculptures present warriors and goddesses as well as children, maids, cats, and dogs. Some sculptures tell stories of family members of several generations. Inside some vaults are portraits of the dead and sculptures of guarding angels.
In my opinion, the sculptures are the most outstanding feature of the Recoleta Cemetery. The artistry of the cemetery is unique. Looking around, I felt as if I was in a park of sculptures. A fellow tourist wondered why Argentines did not view it a taboo to live and sip coffee near the thousands of dead people. I think the artistry and human touch of the cemetery attract people. Another explanation is that the local residents believe the cemetery is a land with good geomantic omen. No wonder hundreds of artisans gather on Saturday afternoons in the Plaza Francia. The handicraft market there is the largest of its kind in Argentina.
Our tour guide was a PhD specialized in history. He took us to the tomb of Eva Perón (1919-1952). She was the second wife of President Juan Perón and served as the First Lady of Argentina from 1946 until her death in 1952 at the age of 33. She is still much loved in Argentina. Her mausoleum was nothing spectacular. Situated by an ordinary walkway, it was part of her father’s family burial ground. Etched on a small bronze plate on the black marble façade was her name and portrait. I learned that she was never considered important within her father’s family. But what is important is that people including some foreigners come to visit her mausoleum. There are always flowers in front of her tomb. It is said that a man, now in his 70s, visits the tomb every morning and plays the violin there. I did not see the old man, but it touched my heartstring to envision him and his music making on the violin.
Another noteworthy aspect of the cemetery is the cats. I saw a lot of cats and all of them looked oversized and fat. Some wandered lazily around; some stretched and yawned; some slept. Many tourists photographed these cats. □
到布宜诺斯艾利斯旅游，导游往往会推荐你游览位于市中心的雷科莱塔公墓，说是很特别。我曾两次去过雷科莱塔公墓，第一次是阿根廷接待方安排去的，第二次是我建议大家去的。
在布宜诺斯艾利斯市中心，在商店和高级住宅包围中的雷科莱塔公墓，建有高高的围墙，高大豪华的大门口不会使人想到里面是墓地。跨进大门口，正中央的地上镶嵌着一块铜牌，标着四个阿拉伯数字——“1822”。导游让我们猜这4个阿拉伯数字的含意。我们很自然就猜中那是建立墓地的时间。
建立于1822年的这块墓地，是由一个教堂的后花园改建的，占地10英亩(约60市亩)，目前葬有大约7000位阿根廷社会历代精英，其中有23位阿根廷正副总统。这些死者的身份决定了葬在公墓里的人不可能是一般平民，而是达官显贵。在阿根廷，贵族身份是很严格的，需要其家族拥有十世以上的贵族荣耀保持，非“暴发户”可以偶然“入流”。因此，雷科莱塔公墓自诞生起就奠定了其“贵族血统”。但雷科莱塔公墓的特别之处主要不在于其“贵族血统”，而在于其坟墓建筑。这也是雷科莱塔公墓给我印象深刻的地方。从大门往里走，迎面是一幢幢排列整齐有序的宫殿般小楼。一条条约两三米宽的水泥通道纵横交错，路边种有许多几十年甚至上百年树龄的树木，“街道”呈井字型，另有4条对角线斜街，里面俨然是一个浓缩的街区。
小楼与正常房屋相仿，只是宽度、高度按比例缩小。有华丽的门面，大理石贴墙，许多门口镶着人物、动物浮雕，铁制大栅门。室内布置得富贵逼人，彩色地砖、水晶吊灯、台灯等家什十分齐全，还有镀金、镏金甚至纯金的装饰，用料精美，设计别致，而且绝无雷同，风格迥异。游人站在门口，透过玻璃门或窗户往里面望去，里面的摆设一目了然，也依稀可见一具具精美的棺材一层层地叠放着——按照家族成员的去世时间顺序自下而上叠放。要不是看到棺材，人们不会觉得这是坟墓。其实，小楼就是坟墓，由其所有者家族世代所有，自行设计、布局和装饰，风格多为哥特式，大的占地有数十平方米，小的仅几平方米，以两层的为多，三层的也有，有的还有地下室，上下楼的楼梯也与真的一样。陵墓似一座座缩小版的宫殿，静穆而肃然。
一般来说，到墓地，人们都会觉得阴森和沉郁。但到雷科莱塔公墓，大家根本没有这种感觉，反而像是在参观雕塑博物馆。在雷科莱塔墓园，到处都是雕塑，其中不乏欧洲名家构思奇特、寓意无穷的雕塑精品，有勇武的猛士、有柔媚的女神。除西方传说中的守护神雕塑外，有些雕塑还富有生活气息，如侍女、小童和猫狗，殿檐上还有吉祥天使等。有的陵墓还有画卷般的叙事雕塑，追叙几代人的奋斗史，用雕塑来表现其思想特征和行为特色，记录家族的兴旺历程。有的墓室里面也有各式各样的雕塑，有些是遗像，有些是神话中保护天使的雕像。这些充满灵性的雕塑陪伴着死者度过了一个个寂寞的春秋冬夏。
雕塑赋予了雷科莱塔墓园一种灵性。墓主们生活态度的表达和雕塑艺术的结合，饱含着文化的、艺术的无穷韵味。这种难以模仿的艺术装点是墓园的精华所在，也是其最特别的地方。环视小楼般的坟墓，恍惚间我们觉得自己不是置身于墓园中，而是到了一座雕塑公园。精美的建筑充满着灵气，让游人享受着浪漫艺术。
公墓的艺术气息解答了我们的一些疑问。我们有的人说，在几千个死人旁喝咖啡、居住，阿根廷人不忌讳吗?正是这个公墓建筑所具有的人文情怀，使阿根廷人少了些忌讳，多了些亲近。使阿根廷人与这些死人为邻的另一个重要原因，是阿根廷人认为这里是块风水宝地，在周边做生意可以沾染“贵气”。因此，此地人气格外兴旺。每到周末，公墓外的法兰西广场会聚集上百个各色手工艺品小摊主，组成了布宜诺斯艾利斯最著名的特色集市。
我们的阿根廷历史博士生导游特意带我们参观了一下“贝隆夫人”的墓地。“贝隆夫人”在阿根廷历史上具有重要意义，在雷科莱塔公墓也是最有影响的。因此，来雷科莱塔公墓参观者总会来看看“贝隆夫人”。
“贝隆夫人”是阿根廷总统胡安·贝隆的第二任妻子。她积极支持丈夫竞选总统，在丈夫当选为总统后，从事政府工作，在阿根廷国家事务中起了重要的作用，深受阿根廷人的崇拜。她于1952年33岁时因病死亡，死后16年才被葬到雷科莱塔公墓。在阿根廷，没有一个像她那么短暂的生命却对历史产生了深远的影响。她是阿根廷人的骄傲。
她的陵墓并没有想象中的壮观，也没有任何特别的标志，只是位于雷科莱塔公墓一条极其普通的墓道旁。这是她父亲家族的墓地。在U形的陵墓黑色大理石门框左侧，一小块长方形铜板雕刻着她的名字和头像。对于她的贵族家族而言，她的地位从不显赫，甚至曾经被怀疑过她的血统是否正宗。时至今日，这已不重要。重要的是有大量的阿根廷人民前来陵墓拜谒她，也有许多外国人来看她。她的墓前，总会摆着一些鲜花，从不间断。据说，有一位70多岁的耄耋老人，每天清晨都会来到贝隆夫人的陵墓前，如痴如醉地拉上一曲小提琴，仿佛想通过音乐向墓中的灵魂传递情感，场面十分温馨而感人。□
Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
By Luo Haiying
In my world tours, I have visited quite a few mausoleums and witnessed the regal grandeur of the 13 Ming Tombs in Beijing, the pyramids in Egypt, the Westminster Abbey, and Vatican. Recoleta Cemetery in the exclusive Recoleta neighborhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina, however, appeals to me in a special way.
To those who tour Buenos Aires, the Recoleta Cemetery in downtown is always recommended. And fortunately, I have visited the famous cemetery twice.
Located in the heart of Buenos Aires, the cemetery is encircled by a high wall. The magnificent gates suggest nobleness and art rather than an ordinary cemetery.
It was a garden of a church and got converted into the Recoleta Cemetery in 1822. The 14,000-acre cemetery is now the final resting place of about 7,000 Argentines of greatest prestige and power of Buenos Aires including 23 presidents and vice presidents.
The first time I stepped through the gates I saw the number 1822 etched on a bronze plate. The guide asked us to guess what the number meant. All of us figured it out pretty soon. The guide said that commoners and upstarts wouldn’t have a chance to be buried there.
I was not particularly impressed by the noble pedigrees featured by the cemetery, but I was fascinated by the architectural splendor of the mausoleums and the layout of the cemetery. The cemetery is laid out in sections like city blocks, with wide tree-lined main walkways stretching away into sidewalks flanked by mausoleums. The walkways and sidewalks form a grid, crisscrossed by four diagonal walkways. The mausoleums look like palaces in miniaturized proportions. A mausoleum can have a door, marble walls, sculptures of humans and animals, iron gates. I sidled up to a house and looked into the window. Inside were miniature furniture, colored ground tiles, crystal chandeliers and table lamps. Inside you can see coffins laid out one upon another in the chronological order of deaths. Only these coffins made me aware that I was visiting a cemetery. Most mausoleums are two-story structures. Some even have basements.
The Recoleta Cemetery does not look somber and melancholy. It looks like an open museum of sculptures. Sculptures present warriors and goddesses as well as children, maids, cats, and dogs. Some sculptures tell stories of family members of several generations. Inside some vaults are portraits of the dead and sculptures of guarding angels.
In my opinion, the sculptures are the most outstanding feature of the Recoleta Cemetery. The artistry of the cemetery is unique. Looking around, I felt as if I was in a park of sculptures. A fellow tourist wondered why Argentines did not view it a taboo to live and sip coffee near the thousands of dead people. I think the artistry and human touch of the cemetery attract people. Another explanation is that the local residents believe the cemetery is a land with good geomantic omen. No wonder hundreds of artisans gather on Saturday afternoons in the Plaza Francia. The handicraft market there is the largest of its kind in Argentina.
Our tour guide was a PhD specialized in history. He took us to the tomb of Eva Perón (1919-1952). She was the second wife of President Juan Perón and served as the First Lady of Argentina from 1946 until her death in 1952 at the age of 33. She is still much loved in Argentina. Her mausoleum was nothing spectacular. Situated by an ordinary walkway, it was part of her father’s family burial ground. Etched on a small bronze plate on the black marble façade was her name and portrait. I learned that she was never considered important within her father’s family. But what is important is that people including some foreigners come to visit her mausoleum. There are always flowers in front of her tomb. It is said that a man, now in his 70s, visits the tomb every morning and plays the violin there. I did not see the old man, but it touched my heartstring to envision him and his music making on the violin.
Another noteworthy aspect of the cemetery is the cats. I saw a lot of cats and all of them looked oversized and fat. Some wandered lazily around; some stretched and yawned; some slept. Many tourists photographed these cats. □