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This paper investigates the phenomena of wave refraction and diffraction in the slowly varying topography, as well as the current deflection due to wave actions. A numerical model is developed based on depth integrated mean continuity equation and momentum equations, and a 3rd-order wave equation which governs the wave diffraction, refraction and interaction with current. Examples to examine the above model are given comparing with the laboratory data or the numerical results of other researchers. An example simulating the inlet area shows the interesting velocity field which may be used as a pioneer to further study on the nearshore hydrodynamics and sedimentation.
This paper investigates the phenomena of wave refraction and diffraction in the slowly varying topography, as well as the current deflection due to wave actions. A numerical model is developed based on depth integrated mean continuity equation and momentum equations, and a 3rd-order wave equation Examples go examine the above model are given comparing with the laboratory data or the numerical results of other researchers. An example simulating the inlet area shows the interesting velocity field which may be used as a pioneer to further study on the nearshore hydrodynamics and sedimentation