论文部分内容阅读
BEIJING denizens flocked to a recent exhibition of qipao dresses in the city. But this most famed traditional Chinese clothing is not only sealed within a museum, it’s being kept alive through a new generation of fashionistas.
Chasing older days
Skewed Tobacco Pouch Street is one of the most famous hutong neighborhoods in Beijing. at its top entrance is a small tailor shop behind a closed door.
The owner of the shop is Shi yongxia. Shi moved to the street 12 years ago, and has witnessed its evolution from silent road to famed tourism site. But Shi would prefer it if her shop’s door could shut out the newfound noise permanently. all she wants is to be left alone with her qipao.
A qipao, also known as a cheongsam, is a body-hugging one-piece Chinese dress. Its design can be traced back Manchus who ruled during the Qing dynasty between 1636 and 1911. But its modern incarnation, now recognized in China as the “standard” form of qipao, was first developed in Shanghai in the 1920s. From the 1920s to the end of the 1940s, it was the most popular dress style in the country. Women of all stripes - housewives, students, office workers, movie stars and diplomats - favored wearing the qipao.
Once the People’s Republic of China was founded in 1949, fashion-conscious Chinese began to embrace Western clothing more fully. This shift saw a concurrent fall in the popularity of qipao dresses among Chinese women. The style ultimately became a symbol of the past.
Clothes are the best way to recall memories of older times, and Shi has kept a sewing needle in hand for the past 30 years precisely for this reason.
Shi’s grandma was a tailor. as a child, Shi witnessed the sewing of many qipao dresses. She would reference these memories later on in life.
“I reach back to my childhood memories when I make qipao,”says Shi. “Lucky for me, I’ve actually seen the real qipao that people wore in old times. Those memories inspire me all the time.”
Shi keeps learning, desperate to recreate the images from her history. Elderly clients are her favorite; their requirements are classically precise. She also loves to immerse herself in traditional culture, reading novels and looking at decades-old photos.
“Some young people want to add modern elements to the qipao,”says Shi. “They don’t like my traditional style, but I don’t care. If you really love traditional culture, you will like my works.”
Raised in a remote village in anhui Province, Shi says she didn’t spend much time in school. But her clients are different. “Those who love traditional culture are mostly knowledgeable and well-educated,” she says.
Whether they are university professors or scholars of ancient Chinese, Shi is happy and proud to share a common interest with them. When she works day and night to perfect a dress, they appreciate her attention to detail and share her excitement.
This respect for tradition distinguishes the shop from others of its ilk. Shi’s client base is small but very loyal. almost all of them bring friends along, and the five tailors on staff are always busy.
Shi insists on every client coming to the shop personally. a 20-minute body measurement is a must. “The dress’s essence lies in its close fit to the human body,” she says.
Friends have suggested Shi expand her business and renovate the shop to improve output, but she doesn’t agree.
“Traditional tailoring is not meant to be a broad-scale business,” she says. “More clients mean you have to cater for different tastes. I just want to do it my way, step by step.”
For Shi, it’s not about business but art. The qipao is her masterpiece. Each must be perfect.
Standing out
Adjacent to Shi’s shop is the vast lake, Houhai. Its surrounding area is extremely popular with both Chinese tourists and those from abroad.
Pretty girls in qipao dresses are easily found here. Most of them are office workers who wear suits on the job, but in their time off enjoy wearing something that sets them apart.
These women are keeping qipao alive in modern China. Unlike the stereotype of traditional Chinese women who were seen as weak, they are sharp and independent. For them, wearing a qipao is not about returning to another era, but a way to show individuality.
Wang He works at a headhunting company. on the weekends, she enjoys walking outside and wearing a qipao.
“It’s a vintage style and very unique,” says Wang. “It makes me look different. I attract attention since few people wear it.”
The best thing about the style, she says, is its unique take on sexiness.
“you don’t have to expose much skin,” says Wang. “It shows the curve of your body. your legs peek through the slits, sexy and mysterious.”
This charm has won the dress style fame worldwide, inspiring international designers and appearing on fashion week runways. It has become an iconic fashion symbol in China and beyond.
Brides are statistically the biggest wearers of qipao. The second largest consumer group is students studying abroad, according to staff at Ruifuxiang, the oldest tailor shop in China. When abroad, wearing a qipao has become a top choice for introductions and events.
“Foreigners like a qipao with a modern touch, while most Chinese still prefer traditional styles,” says Peter Zhang, a young designer who runs a tailor shop in Sanlitun, a fashion-conscious neighborhood in Beijing.
But Wang believes that only asian women can fully demonstrate the beauty of a qipao, since its aesthetics are grounded in Chinese ideas about harmony, smoothness and reserved appearance.
“We dress not only in clothes, but in culture,” she says.
Chasing older days
Skewed Tobacco Pouch Street is one of the most famous hutong neighborhoods in Beijing. at its top entrance is a small tailor shop behind a closed door.
The owner of the shop is Shi yongxia. Shi moved to the street 12 years ago, and has witnessed its evolution from silent road to famed tourism site. But Shi would prefer it if her shop’s door could shut out the newfound noise permanently. all she wants is to be left alone with her qipao.
A qipao, also known as a cheongsam, is a body-hugging one-piece Chinese dress. Its design can be traced back Manchus who ruled during the Qing dynasty between 1636 and 1911. But its modern incarnation, now recognized in China as the “standard” form of qipao, was first developed in Shanghai in the 1920s. From the 1920s to the end of the 1940s, it was the most popular dress style in the country. Women of all stripes - housewives, students, office workers, movie stars and diplomats - favored wearing the qipao.
Once the People’s Republic of China was founded in 1949, fashion-conscious Chinese began to embrace Western clothing more fully. This shift saw a concurrent fall in the popularity of qipao dresses among Chinese women. The style ultimately became a symbol of the past.
Clothes are the best way to recall memories of older times, and Shi has kept a sewing needle in hand for the past 30 years precisely for this reason.
Shi’s grandma was a tailor. as a child, Shi witnessed the sewing of many qipao dresses. She would reference these memories later on in life.
“I reach back to my childhood memories when I make qipao,”says Shi. “Lucky for me, I’ve actually seen the real qipao that people wore in old times. Those memories inspire me all the time.”
Shi keeps learning, desperate to recreate the images from her history. Elderly clients are her favorite; their requirements are classically precise. She also loves to immerse herself in traditional culture, reading novels and looking at decades-old photos.
“Some young people want to add modern elements to the qipao,”says Shi. “They don’t like my traditional style, but I don’t care. If you really love traditional culture, you will like my works.”
Raised in a remote village in anhui Province, Shi says she didn’t spend much time in school. But her clients are different. “Those who love traditional culture are mostly knowledgeable and well-educated,” she says.
Whether they are university professors or scholars of ancient Chinese, Shi is happy and proud to share a common interest with them. When she works day and night to perfect a dress, they appreciate her attention to detail and share her excitement.
This respect for tradition distinguishes the shop from others of its ilk. Shi’s client base is small but very loyal. almost all of them bring friends along, and the five tailors on staff are always busy.
Shi insists on every client coming to the shop personally. a 20-minute body measurement is a must. “The dress’s essence lies in its close fit to the human body,” she says.
Friends have suggested Shi expand her business and renovate the shop to improve output, but she doesn’t agree.
“Traditional tailoring is not meant to be a broad-scale business,” she says. “More clients mean you have to cater for different tastes. I just want to do it my way, step by step.”
For Shi, it’s not about business but art. The qipao is her masterpiece. Each must be perfect.
Standing out
Adjacent to Shi’s shop is the vast lake, Houhai. Its surrounding area is extremely popular with both Chinese tourists and those from abroad.
Pretty girls in qipao dresses are easily found here. Most of them are office workers who wear suits on the job, but in their time off enjoy wearing something that sets them apart.
These women are keeping qipao alive in modern China. Unlike the stereotype of traditional Chinese women who were seen as weak, they are sharp and independent. For them, wearing a qipao is not about returning to another era, but a way to show individuality.
Wang He works at a headhunting company. on the weekends, she enjoys walking outside and wearing a qipao.
“It’s a vintage style and very unique,” says Wang. “It makes me look different. I attract attention since few people wear it.”
The best thing about the style, she says, is its unique take on sexiness.
“you don’t have to expose much skin,” says Wang. “It shows the curve of your body. your legs peek through the slits, sexy and mysterious.”
This charm has won the dress style fame worldwide, inspiring international designers and appearing on fashion week runways. It has become an iconic fashion symbol in China and beyond.
Brides are statistically the biggest wearers of qipao. The second largest consumer group is students studying abroad, according to staff at Ruifuxiang, the oldest tailor shop in China. When abroad, wearing a qipao has become a top choice for introductions and events.
“Foreigners like a qipao with a modern touch, while most Chinese still prefer traditional styles,” says Peter Zhang, a young designer who runs a tailor shop in Sanlitun, a fashion-conscious neighborhood in Beijing.
But Wang believes that only asian women can fully demonstrate the beauty of a qipao, since its aesthetics are grounded in Chinese ideas about harmony, smoothness and reserved appearance.
“We dress not only in clothes, but in culture,” she says.