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一、前言在海浪的研究中,用精度较高的测波仪器,从自然界获取各种天气情况下的海浪实测资料,用于揭示海浪本身的变化规律是一种非常重要的研究手段.然而,由于海上条件的复杂和严峻,且费用昂贵,常使系统的观测资料很难得到.近几年来,随着电子计算机应用的推广,一些研究者利用计算取得大量人为资料作为研究海浪本身变化规律的依据,已在海浪谱和海浪外观统计特征的研究方面取得了可喜的成果.本文根据波的叠加原理,利用已知谱,对浅水海浪数值模拟进行了初步尝试,模拟了波剖面、谱曲线及海浪要素.
I. Preface It is a very important research method to reveal the variation law of the waves by using the high-precision wave-measuring instruments to obtain the measured data of the ocean waves in various weather conditions from the nature, Due to the complexity and severity of the sea conditions and the high cost, it is very difficult to get systematic observation data.In recent years, with the popularization of computer applications, some researchers use the calculation to obtain a large amount of artificial data as a study of the variation of the waves themselves Based on this, we have made gratifying achievements in the study of the statistical characteristics of the ocean wave spectrum and the ocean wave appearance.In this paper, based on the principle of superposition of waves, we use the known spectrum to try the numerical simulation of shallow ocean waves and simulate the wave profile, Wave elements.