YUXIAN in northwestern Hebei Province is a three-hour drive from Beijing. A prefecture capital as far back as the 6th century, this rural town sits on a wea]th of heritage from its long past, including over 580 ancient buildings, nine of which are under national protection. Besides these tangible monuments of wood and bricks, the area, thanks to its seclusion and detachment from an industrial economy, has kept alive the old farming-based culture and customs of China. Around Spring Festival time every year residents from nearby cities flock to join local celebrations in Yuxian, eager to experience a long lost connection with the land.