对海洋诸要素的观测,直接关系到人们生命财产的安全,关系到人们在海洋各种实践活动中的近期和长远的科益。近些年来,随着我国海洋事业的发展,在海洋工程、海洋开发、海洋环境调查和海洋环境预报均对波浪要素的观测提出了更高的要求。不仅要测取波高、波周期一般统计要素和一维的波浪能谱,还要测取波浪方向统计要素和二维的波浪方向能谱,为海岸工程、海上运输、海港建设等前期工程的安全、经济合理设计提供必需的原始数据,也为 The observation of various elements of the oceans and seas directly relates to the safety of people’s lives and property and the immediate and long-term interests of people in various marine practical activities. In recent years, with the development of marine undertakings in China, higher requirements have been placed on the observation of wave elements in marine engineering, marine development, marine environment investigation and marine environmental forecasting. Not only to measure the wave height, wave period general statistical elements and one-dimensional wave energy spectrum, but also to measure the wave direction statistical elements and two-dimensional wave direction energy spectrum for the coastal engineering, maritime transport, seaport construction and other pre-project safety The economically rational design provides the necessary raw data as well