For Chinese people, “South China” is synonymous with grace and romance. Depictions of the South in many grand poems of the Tang and Song dynasties – the golden period of classical Chinese poetry and prose – ensure successive generations of young Chinese continue to read and dream about the region’s easy charm.
　　The South’s starlets are Hangzhou and Suzhou, whose myriad lakes and gardens embody the region’s delicate beauty. But Zhenjiang City, sitting at the confluence of the Yangtze River and the Grand Canal in Jiangsu Province, is a standout for a different reason. The area is a beautiful hybrid of southern architectural ingenuity and northern grandeur. In Zhenjiang, one sees an interwoven network of misty rivulets and slim stone bridges – the icons of the South. But beyond them, the Yangtze and the Grand Canal roar by with a might seldom seen at the lower latitudes.
　　Zhenjiang is a locale of transition. To its west are rolling hills, and to its east extends the South China Plain. Culturally, it straddles the ancient Wu and Chu civilizations.
　　Founding Fathers
　　In 1954 a local farmer unearthed a 3,000-year-old large bronze ornament in his field. It is now on display in the city’s museum. The 120-character inscription on the vessel tells of the foundation of Zhenjiang.
　　Part of the inscription reads: “One day in the fourth month of the lunar calendar and following the interpretation of a divination, the king of Western Zhou (C1100-771 BC) appointed Marquess Zhou Zhang as Ruler of Yi (of which Zhenjiang was one part), and awarded him lands, slaves and weapons.” To show his gratitude, the Marquess had the bronze ornament cast.
　　Western Zhou prospered in the Central Plains area of the north in what is today’s Shaanxi Province, and was the most developed part of China at the time. When Zhou Zhang came down to rule Yi, he brought advanced technologies and expertise to the then sparsely inhabited south.
　　The Marquess was the scion of Tai Bo and Zhong Yong, two Western Zhou princes who first gave the name Wu to what later became one of the largest and most prosperous kingdoms in southern China. To impel the old king to pass the throne to their youngest brother, whom they believed most capable of ruling the country after their father’s death, the pair exiled themselves to isolated Dantu County in Zhenjiang. They named the region “Gouwu,” and Wu became the name of the kingdom. The two families later migrated to Wuxian County in Suzhou, another city in the province. 　　During the Three Kingdoms Period(220-280), the Wu King Sun Quan, on ascending the throne at age 26, made the decision to move his capital from Suzhou to Zhenjiang, where he built Tieweng (Iron Urn) City. This was the first walled city on the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River. The skillfully designed, highly fortified construction was a main reason for the success of the king’s half-century reign in an era defined by frequent regime change and chronic wars. Ruins of its walls were discovered in 1901.
　　The old main street of Zhenjiang is now a tourist draw card. Called Xijindu, it was named after the port on the Yangtze River to which it leads. Centuries ago, sailboats commuting between the region’s plains and coastal Fujian Province raced one another along this water artery in all seasons. The deep ruts in the stone pavement at the port, hollowed by wheeled vehicles bringing freight to and from docks, tell of the heavy volume of transport the port witnessed.
　　Traffic on the Yangtze began to soar after the opening of the Grand Canal, which connects five major rivers – the Yellow, Yangtze, Huaihe, Haihe and Qiantang. The canal stretched more than 2,700 kilometers in its prime.
　　The Grand Canal flows into the Yangtze River in Zhenjiang, making the region a transport hub to this day. Ancient poems relate how ships carrying grains lined up for 1,000 miles to get to the city, and that at night tens of thousands of lights twinkled on the river.
　　Strategic Value
　　The Yangtze River is the economic lifeline of Southern China and serves as a natural border with the North, whose peoples have historically sought to migrate south to more fertile lands and warmer weather.
　　Zhenjiang saw two major influxes of migrants in ancient times. One took place from 307 to 313, during a coup and ensuing ethnic conflict in the North. People fled southward and many ended up in Zhenjiang, outnumbering the local population.
　　The second influx was in 1126-1127. After several military fiascos, the last two Northern Song emperors, Huizong and his son Qinzong, were imprisoned by the nomadic Jurchen. Qinzong’s younger brother retreated to the south, and established the Southern Song Dynasty, selecting today’s Hangzhou as its capital. A force was stationed in Zhenjiang, 400 kilometers away, to check the offensive of the pursuing Jurchen armies, whose forces totaled 100,000 men. Under the leadership of the resourceful general Han Shizhong, 8,000 Song soldiers defeated an enemy a dozen times their size. 　　This heroic scene was played out again in the mid-19th century during the First Opium War, but with a tragic ending. In a letter to the queen, the Governor of British Hong Kong wrote: Through this city on the Yangtze River large volumes of grain and other commodities are shipped on to Beijing. We should send a fleet to take it over… Its significance is greater than many border cities.
　　In July 1842, British warships and about 7,000 soldiers launched fierce attacks on Zhenjiang, which was defended by a force of 1,500. The Chinese soldiers fought to the last man before the city was seized. Their valor was praised highly by Friedrich Engels in his A New English Expedition to China. He noted that if British invaders had been met with the same strong resistance all their way into China, the result of the war could have been very different.
　　Zhenjiang became one of the first Chinese cities to establish foreign concessions, or leased territories. Oil company offices, churches and consulates were erected along its flagstone streets.
　　The strategic significance of Zhenjiang was first recognized by Qin Shihuang(259-210 BC), founder of China’s first united empire. For the emperor, the region’s significance was rooted in superstition. Worried by a diviner’s observation that the landform of Guyang, now Dantu District of Zhenjiang City, implied that it was the birthplace of future rulers, Qin Shihuang sent 3,000 prisoners in red uniforms to chisel through a local hill that was believed to resemble dragon, the symbol of royal power. He ordered two lakes dug on top of the hill to dispel its supposed imperial Qi, or force. He even renamed another hill and a river in the area in the hope the new names could enhance his power.
　　Perhaps this divination was selffulfilling. Qin died young, and his son reigned for only a short time. In subsequent dynasties only five emperors were born or ever held important official positions in Zhenjiang. Guyang’s hills seem to have retained their imperial Qi.
　　


　　


　　Nature-inspired Art
　　Encompassing the imposing Yangtze River, the magnificent Grand Canal, and splendid, rolling hills – Zhenjiang’s scenery is a treasure-trove of beauty.
　　Jinshan Hill, three kilometers from downtown Zhenjiang, used to be an islet on the Yangtze River. In the old days it was compared to a gorgeous lotus flower floating delicately on the water. Later, the water level fell and the islet became a fully-fledged hill with a lush coverage of bamboo and trees. 　　Jinshan Temple, which sits atop the hill, traces its history back 1,600 years. The temple is in fact a vast complex comprising multiple pavilions and towers that were built according to the hill’s features. The constructions slowly rise from the foot of the hill to the top, each building linked to the next in an unbroken chain.
　　The pavilions and towers of Jinshan Hill make a grand sight. Poet Wang Anshi (1021-1086) of the Song Dynasty(960-1279) described the hill in one of his poems, and how he could feel the breeze wafting through the temple halls when the windows were open, and only realized he was on a hillside upon seeing a flying bird in search of a treetop perch.
　　Many of the emperors that visited the temple over the years created works of calligraphy there in praise of its elegance. That on the tablet at the top of the hill, for example, was written by Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).
　　Jinshan Hill is perhaps best known for the story of the White Snake. The legend goes that a white snake spirit came to the human world and married a young doctor. The marriage was opposed by a Buddhist monk in Jinshan Temple. Main-taining that such a connection between a human and a spirit was impermissible, he locked the husband away. To release her true love, the white snake conjured up a flood to submerge the temple.
　　


　　Zhenjiang is frequently mentioned in poetry as well as literature. Of the 300 most-cited Tang poems, one third mention the city. Of them, Sending off Xin Jian at the Lotus Pavilion, written by Wang Changling (690-756), is perhaps the best known. In it the poet, a scholar official, vows to his family and friends to retain his moral integrity in the darkest period of his life in exile and to maintain his heart as pure “as ice in a jade pot.”
　　Today, Zhenjiang locals still teach their children the expression “ice in a jade pot.” Wang’s poem also features in certain Japanese school textbooks. Every year, a good number of Japanese come to visit the rebuilt Lotus Pavilion in the city.
　　Jiaoshan Hill is another alluring attraction in Zhenjiang. The name was given by a Song emperor in honor of Jiao Guang, a renowned hermit of the Eastern Han Dynasty (25-220).
　　Like Jinshan Hill, Jiaoshan boasts a wealth of places of interest. Huayan Pavilio has romantic appeal – it is a traditional spot where city locals come to observe the full moon. But the real treasure is the Forest of Steles, which features many examples of calligraphy from great masters and scholars of dynasties past. 　　The Jiaoshan Forest of Steles was built by Qian Zigao, a prefecture magistrate of the Northern Song Dynasty. Featuring many different writing styles, the “forest” is made up of over 460 inscribed tablets. Perhaps most captivating among them is The Lament for the Crane (Yiheming). Most people believe the inscription was by renowned calligrapher Wang Xizhi (303-361), who reared cranes. The slate inscription at Jiaoshan is part of a series carved on a cliff face. Owing to a bolt of lightning this section fell into the river during the Northern Song Dynasty. The remnants we see today were salvaged by a local Qing Dynasty official. Quite a few pieces were lost forever.
　　Calligraphers in Chinese history have long held the Yiheming in high regard. Some scholars believe it was carved by a hermit of the Liang Dynasty (502-557), others that it is a product of the Tang Dynasty (618-907). In any event, the inscription played an important role in the early development of Chinese handwriting styles.
　　Owing to Zhenjiang’s subtropical location, Jiaoshan is covered with dense foliage interspersed with bamboo and pine and cypress trees. It is particularly famous for its ancient arbors, such as the 1,000-year-old Cypress of Six Dynasties, the 700-year-old Song Chinese Scholar Tree, as well as a number of 400-yearold maples, cherry bays and cedars. From afar, these architectural splendors are hidden by mountain greenery.
　　Strolling through the Forest of Steles, one is aware of the hill’s historical and artistic legacy. Zheng Banqiao (1693—1765), a renowned artist of the Qing Dynasty, came here to study painting and calligraphy. “A chamber need not be large so long as it is tasteful; flowers need not be many so long as they are fragrant,” he wrote. The calligraphy he left behind in a local cloister is philosophical and thought-provoking.
　　Among Zhenjiang’s three famous hills, namely Jianshan, Jiaoshan and Beigushan, perhaps the most captivating cultural splendors are on Beigushan. Many people nowadays know of the hill through the poems written there by Xin Qiji (1140-1207), a poet of the Song Dynasty.
　　Beigushan’s steep cliffs cut into the Yangtze River. The hill has a front, rear and middle peak. That at the rear one is the highest and therefore offers the best views of Zhenjiang as well as of the surrounding countryside, including an impressive view of the mighty Yangtze.
　　There are many cultural relics on Beigushan Mountain, many of which vividly retell ancient stories from the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280). The ancient Ganlu Temple on its slopes is well known from the story of the political marriage between Wu and Shu. 　　Liu Bei, founder of the Kingdom of Shu, leased a city from the Kingdom of Wu and found various excuses not to return it. The exasperated Wu King Sun Quan, at the suggestion of a wily general, offered to marry Liu to his sister, intending to detain him once he took the bait. Thanks to maneuvering by his witty aid, however, Liu won favor with Sun’s mother and escaped with his new wife after the wedding. It was at Ganlu Temple that Liu first met his future mother-in-law and impressed the old lady with his chivalry and good looks.
　　On the rear peak stands the Duojing Tower, one of the best-known ancient buildings along the Yangtze River. The tablet hanging over its gate was inscribed by renowned artist Mi Fu (1051-1107).
　　Spiritual Connections
　　As an old Chinese saying goes, “Hermits select picturesque spots for the soli-tary life; scenic places are never short of recluses.” Zhenjiang is no exception. The above-mentioned hermit Jiao Guang became well known while in the region for declining three times an emperor’s offer of an official position.
　　Legend says that another recluse, Mao Ying of the Han Dynasty (202 BC-AD 220), was the first person to bring the natural beauty of Zhenjiang to national attention. Mao came to a hill in the region in pursuit of a deeper understanding of the doctrines of Taoism. His two younger brothers had been officials in the royal court. Upon hearing of their elder brother’s dedication to Taoism, they resigned and joined him. Later, it is said that the three brothers attained the highest state of spiritual enlightenment and became immortals. The hill was renamed Mount Mao, and the three brothers became Taoist gods of sorts, whom succeeding generations worshipped.
　　Mount Mao is one of Taoism’s sacred places and the birthplace of the Shangqing School. Besides Shangqing, the mountain has also borne witness to other schools of Taoism. In the Eastern Jin Dynasty (317-420), Ge Hong, a founder of Taoist theories, experimented with a recipe for immortality there, and wrote The Legends of the Gods, which has exerted great influence on the Chinese people.
　　Buddhism once boomed in the Southern Dynasties Period (420-589). It is said that the prevalence of Buddhism at the time had much to do with Tao Hongjing, a hermit playfully nicknamed “the Prime Minister of the Mountains.” While enjoying the chirping of birds, the fragrance of wild flowers and trickle of mountain streams, the hermit would also mull over state affairs. He persuaded Xiao Yan, an official of the Kingdom of Qi, to overthrow the fatuous Qi king, and found a new regime. Xiao took the advice and established Liang (502-557). 　　After he acceded to the throne, Xiao wrote to Tao: “What appeals to you so much about the mountains? Why are you so obsessed with them as to be unwilling to come back to normal life?”Tao replied: “There is a myriad of appealing things hidden in the mountains. They are personal pleasures. I can’t explain them clearly to your majesty.” In spite of Tao’s seclusion, the king would often visit Mount Mao to personally consult with Tao whenever he faced an important national decision. It is said that Xiao Yan was drawn into religion on four different occasions. To bring him back to secular life, the royal court paid huge sums to the monasteries accommodating him. Temples in the area became rich, with thousands of tons of silver sitting in their coffers.
　　South Mountain also rises in the area, and features meandering hills and lush plants on its foothills. Dai Yong, a talented composer, once lived here in solitude until his death. Records note that Dai was fond of the chirping of yellowbirds and often sat in the shadows of trees to listen to birdsong while enjoying wine and oranges. Today, taking respite from the heat in the shadows of the mountain’s trees and listening to the sporadic chirping of birds, it’s easy to understand why Dai was so infatuated with the reclusive life, and how he could compose such melodious works as his Heavenly Odes, which perfectly combine the sounds of nature and humanity.
　　Xiao Tong, the eldest son of Xiao Yan, also led a reclusive life here. After being designated heir to the emperor’s throne, he studied here and convened literary talents to compile a 30-volume poetry anthology, the first of its kind in China. Unfortunately, Xiao Tong passed away at age 31 before ascending the throne. His anthology is an invaluable item in China’s cultural heritage.
　　The tomb of Mi Fu is also on South Mountain. Mi was a famous painter and calligrapher of the Northern Song Dynasty, and known as one of the top four artists of the period. Mi died early of an illness. In his will he requested his son in a final ode to the natural wonder that had inspired his unique style of poems to bury him in front of the Helin Temple on the mountain.
　　Mengxi (Dream Pool) Garden was the residence of renowned Northern Song scientist Shen Kuo (1031-1095) in his retirement. Shen’s master work Meng Xi Bi Tan, an encyclopedia on Chinese science, was written here. Men Xi Bi Tan (Dream Pool Essays) is known as the “landmark scientific work of the 11th century” and has been translated into multiple languages including English, French, Italian and Japanese. 　　


　　Local Legends
　　In one of the downtown plazas in Zhenjiang stands a statue of Du Qiuniang, a Tang courtesan who won the heart of a local governor and later the young emperor with one of her poems, in which she exhorted the people to enjoy life in their best years. She reasoned, “If a bud opens, gather it, lest you but wait for an empty bough.” The piece is listed among the 300 best Tang poems.
　　Another gifted local woman was Pearl S. Buck, a winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature who was born in the U.S. but moved to China when she was only a few months old. She resided in a Westernstyle building on Zhenjiang’s Fenche Mountain for much of the 18 years she spent in China. Her Chinese name was Sai Zhenzhu.
　　Her former residence has been converted into a memorial hall. On the dining table in the house is a plate of baked sesame seed cakes that Buck liked to eat as a child.
　　Like local Chinese children, Pearl S. Buck grew up riveted by Chinese folklore and history. She was tutored in classical Chinese literature by her wet nurse Mrs. Wang and her teacher Mr. Kong. Buck said she would never forget an important lesson she learned from Mr. Kong, that people should be always grateful and never arrogant. Kong’s words left a deep impression on her.
　　On December 12, 1938, Buck was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature for her novel The Good Earth, which she wrote based on her observations of peasant life in China. She said at the Nobel Prize Award Ceremony: “When I came to consider what I should say today it seemed that it would be wrong not to speak of China. And this is all the more true because I am an American by birth and by ancestry. I live now in my own country and shall continue to live there, but it is the Chinese and not the American novel that has shaped my own efforts in writing. My earliest knowledge of stories, and of how to tell and write stories, came to me in China. It would be an ingratitude on my part not to recognize this today.”
　　Mr. Kong died of cholera when Buck was only nine years old. In spite of her young age, she insisted on donning mourning apparel and took part in the funeral procession alongside Kong’s children. Buck expressed in her work My Several Worlds: A Personal Record that China was the physical home of her childhood and youth, and the spiritual home of her entire life. On her tombstone in the U.S. her name appears only in Chinese characters. 　　It is Pearl Buck together with other renowned Chinese figures from Zhenjiang such as Sun Quan, Liu Yu, Shen Kuo, Xiao Yan and Ge Hong, who have made the city’s long and splendid history.
　　While the willow catkins in Beijing’s early spring are tinged light yellow, the same plant in the Zhenjiang region’s Danyang City bursts forth in a vibrant red. The Chinese character “Dan” in the city’s name itself means red.
　　In the past, locals believed Danyang could produce rare species of willows, and took this to mean that the place produced extraordinary people. By all accounts, this seems to be the case. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, 15 kings were from Danyang. So far the tombs of eight of them have been located. Today, the emperors’ tombs are popular tourist sites and have been listed as key cultural sites under national protection. Strolling the area, tourists can appreciate the imposing, sacred tombstones, ornamental columns and stone animals. Their construction is a testament to the unique culture of the Southern and Northern Dynasties.
　　A hundred years ago sand deposits in the Yangtze River had reached a level that began to affect the operation of the ports in the region. This eventually led to their disuse.
　　Thankfully, today Zhenjiang is entering a new prime due to local government policies to build a port in Zhenjiang’s Dagang District to handle upwards of 1.39 million tons of cargo each year. Now in operation, the port is set to rejuvenate the local economy. The city is also high on national and local governments’ cultural protection lists. It’s safe to say that Zhenjiang’s strategic worth and a vast repository of cultural and historical wealth ensures this immortal city a long, bright future.