香奈儿的态度

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  当玛莉莲·梦露被问到就寝时都穿什么时,她的答案是 “Chanel N°5”。近一个世纪以来,香奈儿五号香水、香奈儿的黑色小礼服就如同品味、美丽与优雅的同义词,成为时尚圈中一段不朽的神话。
  She came from nothing, but she conquered with style.理性与热情的抗衡,在她的内心世界中,从来没有一刻停止过。尽管那充满矛盾的性格和偏执的脾气让她无法感受乐静处世的轻盈,但这就是她的态度,赖以打破世俗的天性,专属香奈儿的生活方式。
  
  Reporter: Welcome to Paris. I’m Carol Woolton. Vogue TV have been granted 1) exclusive access to the private apartment of Coco Chanel.
  I think the first thing that I noticed, when I walked in, was the marvelous smell. Marie-Louise, Is that Chanel N°5?
  Marie: Yes, of course, of course. When she came here every day at the time she – well she always lived at The Ritz – she crossed the Rue Cambon and the porter of The Ritz called here, to the ladies downstairs at the 2) boutique, and said, “She is arriving,” so that meant that we have to put N° 5 on the 3)staircase.
  These are very valuable 18th century pieces, Chinese 4)coromandel screens; very valuable. And Chanel, for her real luxury, she liked 5)camellias; she put it in her fashions, she put it in her buttons, she put it in a lot of places, this camellia.
  
  She came from nothing, but she conquered with style.
  Revolutionary Thinking
  Shirley MacLaine(Stars as Coco Chanel): Her style? I think probably she wanted to be comfortable. I think, when you’re ambitious like she was, you need freedom with your body in order to be ambitious, so, that, very likely, defined what she would do with a 6)fabric.
  Christian Duguay(Director): She hated the idea that women would just dress for the point of view of men. She thought that women should dress for themselves to be free in their movement, to look at themselves in the mirror and say, “I feel good about myself, today,” and not looking at themselves in the mirror and try to say, “Is my man going to like me the way I’m dressed?”
  
  Will Power
  Christian: Thinking of Coco Chanel, you think passion, freedom, 7)aesthetic, and you think vision.
  Shirley: She was extremely creative, she was very impatient, she really was a person whose will survived above everything else and she never wanted to be poor again. She grew up in an 8)orphanage, so she never wanted poverty again; she would do what had to be done not to be poor.
  Malcolm McDowell(Actor): She was such a force of nature, you know, she was such a strong personality. For her to succeed, at the head of the House of Chanel, she had to 9)knock a few heads. You know, she had to upset people because that’s the only way to get ahead in business, isn’t it? You can’t be the head of an empire like that.
  (In Coco Chanel)
  Man: As your friend and your business partner, I can’t let you risk another collection, now, please, be reasonable.
  Coco: Oh, have I never been reasonable ever? I hate the word – move it – makes me feel dead inside.
  Man: We’d be risking everything – the Italié – I mean your entire work.
  Coco: Well, life is risk.
  Shirley: I like everything about the character, even though she wasn’t always an extremely nice person. But I like that in the character; it’s wonderful to play, because she was a big 10)contradiction. I liked her impatience, I liked her sense of organization, I liked, of course, her art, her art and her 11)indomitability.
  Coco Chanel: In my profession the most honest means are 12) legitimate as long as they are used in the true sense of the word “Fashion.”
  
  记者:欢迎来到巴黎。我是卡洛·乌尔顿。时尚电视台获得了进入可可·香奈儿的私人公寓的特许。
  我觉得当我走进来的时候,我注意到的第一件事就是,那美妙的气味,玛丽– 路易丝。那是香奈儿五号吗?
  玛丽:是的,当然,当然。当她每天来到这里的时候,她——她总是住在丽兹大饭店——她会先穿过康朋街,此时酒店门卫就会给我们电话,对这里楼下服饰店的女士们说“她要来了”。于是那意味着我们要把香奈儿五号喷在楼梯那儿了。
  这些是非常贵重的18世纪的物品,中国乌木屏风,价值不菲;而作为香奈儿真正的奢侈品,她喜欢的是茶花;她把茶花融入到她的时装里,把它放在钮扣设计上,她把它放在很多地方。
  
  她最初一无所有,但她凭借个性征服了世界。
  她改变了她们的思想
  雪莉·麦克兰尼(扮演可可·香奈儿):她的风格?我觉得可能她想舒适自在一些。我想,当你跟她一样野心勃勃的时候,你必须让身体如同自己的抱负一样不受约束,所以,那很可能,决定了她会怎样使用布料。
  克里斯丁·杜瓦(导演):她讨厌女人只以男性的眼光为出发点而着装这一想法。她认为女人应该为了她们自己而着装,让自己更加行动自如,可以揽镜自视道:“今天,我自我感觉很好”,而不是对镜自问:“我的男人会喜欢我这么穿吗?”
  
  她主宰着自己的道路
  克里斯丁:一想到可可·香奈儿,你就会想到热情、自由、美感,你还会想到幻想。
  雪莉:她极富创造力,又十分缺乏耐心,她真的是一个意志超乎一切之上的人,她不愿意再度陷入贫穷中。她在孤儿院长大,所以她不愿意再受穷了;她会为了不再受穷而做该做的事。
  马尔科姆·麦克道尔(演员):她是一个很强势的人,你知道,她是个很有个性的人。她为了获得成功, 作为香奈儿时尚店的负责人,她必须当机立断。你知道,她不得不让某些人心烦难受,因为那是在商业中获胜的唯一方式,对吧?否则你没法成为那样一个时尚帝国的领袖。
  (在《可可·香奈儿》中)
  男子:作为你的朋友和你的商业伙伴,我不能再让你在另一系列服装上冒险,现在,拜托,理智一点吧。
  可可:噢,我难道从未理智过?我讨
  厌这个字眼——拿走它——它让我觉得心如死灰。
  男子:我们将会冒着一无所有的危险——意大利——我是说你的全部事业。
  可可:噢,生命就是一场冒险。
  雪莉:我喜欢这个角色的所有一切,尽管她并非总是一个非常友善的人,但我喜欢这样的性格。扮演这个角色也妙不可言,因为她是一个非常矛盾的人。我喜欢她缺乏耐心,我喜欢她有条理性,我喜欢的,当然还有她的艺术,她的艺术和她的不屈精神。
  可可·香奈儿:在我的事业生涯中,只要是真正用于“时装”一词上,最坦诚的举措便都是合情合理的。
  翻译:晓淳
  


  

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