提到唱卖(又谓叫卖),老成都人便会想起旧时街头巷尾那娓娓动听、如歌如诉的各种唱卖之声.而在众多的唱卖中,饮食的唱卖又最为普遍,其佼佼者应算是“鸣堂叫菜”了.虽然“鸣堂”在店里,但唱卖的点还是一样.说起这类唱卖食店,已是历史悠久,古时称为“面食店”(《梦梁录》)、“食店”《东京梦华录》,凡此类饭店,大者又谓之“分茶”、“南食店”,小者谓之“焖饭店”,都以唱卖为特色.《东京梦华录》记此类饭店的特点时说.“客坐,则一人执箸纸,遍问坐客.都人侈纵,百端呼索,或热或冷,或温或整,或绝冷、精浇、膘浇之类,人人索唤不同.行菜得之,近局次立,从头唱念,报与局内.当局者谓之‘铛头”又曰‘着案’讫.须叟,行菜者左手杈三碗,右臂自手重肩驮叠约二十碗,散下尽合各人呼索,不容差错.”成都的“鸣堂叫菜”实属此类传统.唱卖作为传统的一种饮食文化现象,已在许多城镇中逐渐消失,从食俗风情上看,可谓憾事.这里,笔者将成都地区本事纪五十年代还保留着的鸣堂唱卖中的常用语言加以回忆并集录于下: Mentioned singing (also known as selling), the old Chengdu people will think of the old streets and lanes that sounds appealing, such as singing the song of all kinds of singing, while in many singing, the singing of the most popular food , Its leader should be regarded as “Ming Tong called food.” Although the “Ming Hall” in the store, but singing the same point .. Speaking of such singing and canteen, is a long history, in ancient times called “ Pasta shop ”(“ Dream Leung Lu ”),“ food shop ”“ Tokyo dream Hualu ”, where such a hotel, who also called the“ sub-tea ”,“ South shop ” “, All singing to feature.” Tokyo dream “recorded in the characteristics of such a restaurant said.” Guest sitting, then one person Zhi Zhi paper, all over the passenger. Hot or cold, or warm or the whole, or cool, pouring, pouring and the like, everyone calls different. “Pottery” also said ’case’ finished. Must 叟, liners left hand three bowls of arms, his right arm shoulder heavy pack of about twenty bowls, scattered to make everyone echo, not wrong. “Chengdu ”Ming Tong called food" is a tradition of this. Singing as a traditional drink Cultural phenomenon, has gradually disappeared in many towns and towns, from the customs point of view, can be described as pity. Here, the author of the Chengdu area in the 1950s also retained the Ming Tong singing in the common language memories and recorded in under: