“锦绣西湖”都锦生

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  杭州茅家埠背依龙井山脉,面向西湖,是融汇秀美山水风光的绝佳处。都锦生出生于西湖畔茅家埠的书香门第。他生于斯、长于斯,在五四运动时以优秀成绩毕业于浙江甲种工业学校(浙江大学前身)机织专业,并留校任教。当时都锦生是满怀豪情壮志的热血青年,热忱地向往着为发展民族丝绸工业而大显身手。
  父亲发现都锦生从小就有良好的美术功底,并充分理解他开拓丝织新工艺的爱国志向,特地到上海为他购买当时十分稀罕而珍贵的照相机。都锦生酷爱美术,有了照相机,更醉心于摄影艺术。从此他常常留连忘返地徘徊在西子湖畔,将美丽迷人的风景尽情地摄入镜头。这时一个新奇的联想出现在脑海中:通过相机的感光功能,像拓印碑文那样设法将西湖风景照片丝织成珍贵的织锦,从而成为优美的装饰织锦工艺品而长驻人间。都锦生从此立志做“锦绣西湖”的创始人。
  都锦生在学校学习的是常规绸缎设计。织锦中表达的自然风景图,尤其是丝织品画面中湖水的波光、天空的云彩、山色的远近层次等形象,很难用常规花纹图案来表达。经过都锦生刻苦地反复试验,他彻底摒弃了传统常规的意匠画丝织法,始创革新了风景、人像画的先进丝织法,真可谓石破天惊地创造了织锦奇迹。
  都锦生革新丝织工艺,大胆创造出33种工艺操作组织法,终于在织锦绚丽画面上,分别显示出风景中各种细微复杂的线条色彩,各档层次的光线深浅,从而真实表达织锦的设计理念,织锦画面反映了自然风光光线的阴阳面,层次的立体感。功夫不负有心人!我国第一幅西湖丝织风景画在茅家埠丝织作坊里试制成功了。这是中华民族丝绸行业具有划时代意义的重大事件。
  西湖风景的丝织工艺品初获成功,极大地鼓舞了都锦生创办企业、大干一场的决心。他增购丝织机,扩建宅院里的丝织作坊,积极扩大生产,推销产品。
  当时,杭州城里人到灵隐寺敬香礼佛,须从湖滨乘船,经西湖水道到达茅家埠。上埠弃船后,走“上香古道”,步行或乘轿到灵隐、天竺寺院。当年茅家埠是西湖水陆交通的中转站,这里茶馆、酒楼、食品铺等都有。都锦生家老宅就座落在西湖水域的船埠旁,都锦生在老宅大院门口设立了第一个织锦销售点,摊位上每天都悬挂着新颖别致的丝织西湖风景画。这成为茅家埠一道亮丽夺目的风景线,顿时吸引许多游人与香客浏览、观赏或购买。接着都锦生在杭州市中心的花市街(今邮电路)开设第一家“都锦生织锦营销所”,随着都锦生丝织工艺品声誉日隆,销售日渐红火,都锦生又在上海、南京、天津、武汉、重庆、广州等地开设营销所,此时都锦生织锦在国内已热销得供不应求。
  都锦生并不满足企业兴旺发达的现状,认为我国自古就有丝织王国的美誉,历史上先后有陆上和海上丝绸之路,将中国丝绸传播和行销到各地,引起世界各国人民的震惊和瞩目。都锦生坚定的愿景是:推陈出新,走出国门;在当今世界丝织工艺舞台上,重振中国丝织品的辉煌。为此,都锦生紧紧抓住历史机遇,获得美国费城世博会参展资质。
  1926年,杭州都锦生丝织厂著名的丝织精品《宫妃夜游图》荣获美国费城世界博览会金质奖状。在美国费城世博会中国馆的开幕日,都锦生织锦成为特种工艺品展厅的最大亮点。织绵画面上的波光月影,幽雅迷人的花园夜色,楚楚动人的宫妃美女,在织锦主题中呈现真实而灵动的色彩。它把中国传统的历史文化、书画艺术、丝织工艺有机地融汇在一起,成为当时轰动国际市场的工艺珍品。当时美国有报刊发表评论说,“中国重新展示了丝织工艺品历史性的巨大魅力,真让全世界耳目一新!”1926年至1936年,是都锦生丝织厂兴旺发达的最佳时期,企业在生产规模、工艺技术、花色品种和经营销售方面,均达到建厂以来最高峰。1927年,都锦生丝织厂从西湖边茅家埠,搬迁到艮山门外闸弄口附近的新厂区。当时的杭州艮山门外是铁路和运河的水陆交通枢纽,又是传统丝绸行业的聚集地。从此标志着都锦生丝织厂已经从小规模丝绸作坊,逐步发展成为当时设备先进、工艺精湛、产品一流的先进织锦企业。
  都锦生丝织厂新厂区花木扶疏、环境优雅。建有工艺技术设计楼,宽敞的织锦车间,先进的电机车间,规范的准备车间,有当时进口的5台自动轧花机和自动串花机。据1929年的杭州首届西湖博览会总结报告书记载:都锦生丝织厂资本达1万银元,年平均产量达5万幅。1930年后,都锦生丝织品畅销海内外。五彩织锦等花色品种达数百种,深受国内外消费者青睐。如杭州著名风景织锦《九溪十八涧》,其丝绸画面显示:山道弯弯,溪水潺潺,高山白云,树木青翠……丝织经纬织出了美丽的景色。
  1937年,“七七事变”后,日本侵略军侵占杭州。日寇宪兵队长下令:“寻找都锦生,不许伤害他,要利用他的声誉为皇军服务。”日寇暗探循踪找到茅家埠都锦生家,拿出日寇委任状,请都锦生出任“伪杭州市长”。都锦生严词拒绝,决意不为“皇军”效劳。翌日,日寇玩弄阴谋,在报纸上公布“伪杭州市政府”官员名单,居然擅自标上都锦生大名。为彻底揭穿日寇的阴谋诡计,都锦生决定离杭避难。日寇发现都锦生“失踪”后恼羞成怒,竟大发兽性地炸毁和焚烧艮山门外的都锦生丝织厂。都锦生身心遭遇到重大打击,他的一生心血化为灰烬。
  都锦生辗转逃亡到上海租界,投资建造简陋的厂房,重新艰难起步,继续实现他的织锦梦想。在硝烟弥漫的抗战时期,市场混乱、经济萧条、民不聊生。都锦生的弄堂小厂惨淡经营,很难维持。
  1941年,太平洋战争爆发,日寇侵占了上海租界,都锦生的织锦梦想彻底破灭。他忍痛关闭企业,终日陷于悲愤交集的忧虑和绝望之中。1943年3月的一天,都锦生在穷困病弱中突发脑溢血。在弥留之际遗言:“回杭州,魂归西湖安葬。”5月26日,都锦生在上海英年早逝,终年仅46岁。都锦生丝织厂的老职工,满怀深情地用他生前创制的织锦工艺,敬织一幅《都锦生织锦肖像》,留作永久的纪念。
  现在,茅家埠都锦生故居已改建为“都锦生纪念馆”。进入大门,便是一尊都锦生全身塑像,形态栩栩如生,神情凝重睿智,真让络绎不绝的参观者肃然起敬。
  
  The Man Who Weaves West Lake onto Brocade
  By Ge Xuguo
  
  Maojiabu is more than a scenic village on the west shore of the West Lake. It is the birthplace where Du Jinsheng (1897-1943) was born. Du was from a family of scholars and grew up in the scenic lake area. When he was young, his father bought him a camera from Shanghai after seeing the junior had an aptitude for fine arts. Du Jinsheng graduated from the textile machinery department of Zhejiang First Industrial Academy, part of the predecessor of today’s Zhejiang University. He stayed at his alma mater to teach after his graduation. He did a lot of sightseeing around the West Lake and photographed the beautiful sceneries. One day he had an inspiration of weaving the picturesque scenery of the lake into brocade.
  He experimented with his creative ideas, seeking the best way to translate photographic images onto brocades. He finally invented a 33-step procedure to weave colorful silk threads into a picture on a piece of brocade. His technology revolutionized the traditional way of weaving impressionistic images onto silk fabrics. The first successful image was the Nine Brooks and Eighteen Dales, a scenic spot in the west of the West Lake, where streams zigzag bubbling among densely wooded hills. It was China’s first ever silk-woven landscape fabric and it happened at a time when the country was seeing an upsurge of industrialization as young entrepreneurs across China considered industrialization was a way to revitalize the ancient empire. On May 15, 1922, Du Jinsheng set up a silk-weaving factory in his name in Maojiabu.
  From ancient times up to the early 1920s, there was not yet a bus road that connected downtown Hangzhou with Lingyin Temple. Buddhist pilgrims usually took a boat trip across the lake and landed at Maojiabu before they traveled on foot or by sedan to reach the Buddhist sanctuary. Maojiabu, therefore, served as a stopover place for these pilgrims and visitors, where teahouses, restaurants, wine shops and pilgrimage article shops flourished. Du Jinsheng put his brocades up at his shop beside his home. The unique silk pictures attracted pilgrims. Sales were pretty good.
  Du set up a sales outlet in Flower Market Street in downtown Hangzhou. Before long, he opened up shops in Shanghai, Nanjing, Tianjin, Chongqing, and Guangzhou. With the support of Zhejiang Provincial Government, Du sent his beautiful brocades to the World Expo in Philadelphia, USA in 1926 where one of his silk-woven brocade won a gold medal.
  In 1926, his business was so brisk that he bought a piece of land of about one hectare outside the Genshan Gate in the northeast Hangzhou. He chose the spot for good business reasons: outside the Genshan Gate was a new railroad depot; the Grand Canal was just a stone’s throw away; in close neighborhood were a lot of silk factories. The factory started manufacturing operations in 1927 and had 130 employees working nearly 100 manually weaving machines.
  The decade from 1926 to 1936 witnessed the flourishing of Du’s business. The weaving technology was mature and the workshops turned out hundreds of different pictures woven on brocade. The official summary about the West Lake Expo written in 1929 reported that Du Jinsheng Silk-Weaving Factory averagely made 50,000 pieces of colorful pictured brocades a year with a profitability rate at 200%.
  Du Jinsheng’s business suffered a fatal blow when Japan started an all-out invasion into China in 1937. Thinking Du Jinsheng was the best figurehead for the puppet regime in Hangzhou, the Japanese occupiers came to Du’s house at Maojiabu and showed him a letter of appointment saying that he had been appointed Mayor of Hangzhou. Du declined the appointment. But his appointment was announced in the next day’s newspaper anyway. Du disappeared. Enraged, the Japanese military rulers decided to retaliate against the non-cooperative attitude. They dynamited and burned down Du’s factory outside the Genshan Gate. Du sneaked away to Shanghai and hid himself in foreign concessions, where he tried to restart his business. The business wasn’t good. In 1941, Japan started its military offense in the Pacific Ocean and grabbed the foreign concessions in Shanghai. Du had to shut down his silk-weaving manufacturing operation in Shanghai. In March 1943, he had massive brain hemorrhage. He said on his deathbed that he wanted to be buried in Hangzhou. He passed away on May 26, 1943.
  Du Jinsheng was one of those Chinese patriots in the early 20th century that intended to save China through industrialization and achieve revitalization. His revolutionary innovation uplifted the 5,000-year-old silk craft to an unprecedented high, creating a legacy that is a material and spiritual treasure of China.
  The factory outside the Genshan gate is no more. But his former residence at Maojiabu still stands. It now serves as Du Jinsheng Memorial where visitors can trace his life and contribution. A full-length statue of Du Jinsheng stands in the courtyard of the residence where visitors can pay homage to the trailblazing industrialist.
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