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波浪是主要的海岸动力因素之一。港口及海岸工程多位于浅水区,工程的规划设计工作需要确定相应的浅水波要素。根据历史天气图推算所得的常是深水处的波要素或波浪观测点是位于不同的水深处,所以需要进行浅水波浪要素的推算。本文选择的浅水波浪变形数学模型考虑了波浪在浅水区传播过程由于水深变化而引起波浪折射和由于底摩擦波能损耗而引起波高衰减。本模型假设波动为线性简谐波。波浪在浅水区传播过程由于底部摩擦,沿程波能逐渐衰减。因此当波浪在浅水中传播距离较长时要考虑底摩擦波能损耗的影响。本文引用连云港-16米和-5米深浅水同步观测的波浪资料,进行了确定淤泥质海岸底摩擦系数的研究工作。对于采用H~T组合进行计算建议取底摩擦系数f=0.01。
Waves are one of the main coastal dynamics. Ports and coastal engineering and more located in shallow water, the planning and design of the project need to determine the corresponding elements of shallow water. According to the historical weather map, it is often estimated that the wave elements or wave observation points in the deep water are located at different water depths, so the calculation of the shallow water wave elements is needed. The mathematical model of shallow water wave deformation selected in this paper considers the wave refraction due to the change of water depth and the wave height attenuation due to the loss of bottom friction wave in the process of wave propagation in shallow water. This model assumes a linear harmonic harmonic fluctuation. Wave propagation in shallow water due to friction at the bottom of the wave along the process of gradual attenuation. Therefore, when the wave propagation in shallow water longer distance to consider the bottom friction wave energy loss. This paper refers to the data of Lianyungang-16 meters and -5 meters deep-water synchronous observation of the wave data, to determine the muddy coastal friction coefficient of the research work. For the use of H ~ T combination calculation is recommended to take the bottom friction coefficient f = 0.01.