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冲浪运动——一种脚尖头的冲浪板乘浪前进的技艺—是人类最激烈的、速度最快的天然水上运动项目。近年来,这项运动从澳大利亚到南非直至在全世界已经发展成为一项主要的体育运动项目。强健结实的澳大利亚人冒着被鲨鱼吞食的危险,顷澳大利亚沿海的碧波上开展冲浪运动;夏威夷的冲浪能手冒着生命危险,在瓦胡岛向风一边高达三十英尺的滔天巨浪上进行冲浪;不同年龄的加利福尼亚人更是一年到头开展这项运动。冬天,冲浪运动员穿着防水救生衣滑行的灰色的海浪之上,他们冷得肌肉发紫,身上裸露的肌肉被冻成硬块。
Surfing - a tiptoe wave surfing technique - is one of the most intense and fastest natural water sports in mankind. In recent years, the sport has evolved into a major sporting event from Australia to South Africa and throughout the world. Strong and sturdy Australians are at risk of being swallowed by sharks, surfing on the blue waves of Australia’s coast; Hawaii’s surfers risk their lives surfing on windward waves up to 30 feet of monstrous waves on Oahu Californians of all ages start the sport year after year. In winter, surfers wearing waterproof life jackets glide above the gray waves. They are cold and purple, and their bare muscles are frozen into lumps.