论文部分内容阅读
Nelson等指出，在平缓岸滩（岸坡i<1／100）上波浪的破碎指标──相对波高（H／d）b──将较岸坡i＞1／100时为小，即（H／d）。可小于0．6．合田指出他本人提出的破碎指标为理论结果，在缓坡上也适用，即（H／d）b仍可能大于0．7．本文利用高阶非线性波浪理论对此进行了分析计算，并通过实验验证指出了问题症结所在．此外由于计及底能耗的影响．对将不发生波浪破碎的极限坡度作了分析．
Nelson et al. Pointed out that the breaking index of waves on a gentle shoreline (shore slope i <1/100) ──the relative wave height (H / d) b── will be smaller when i> 1/100 than the shore slope, ie / D). Can be less than 0.6. Hetian pointed out that the fragmentation index he proposed himself is a theoretical result, which also applies to mild slopes, ie (H / d) b may still be greater than 0.7. In this paper, high-order nonlinear wave theory is used to analyze and calculate this, and the problem is pointed out through experimental verification. In addition, taking into account the impact of the end of energy consumption. An analysis of the ultimate grade that will not occur wave breaking is given.