肯尼亚印象

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  Prior to my trip to Kenya, my meager knowledge about Kenya is from the book Out of Africa by Kren Blixen. By good fortune, I was selected to attend the 25th Session of UN-Habitat Governing Council as a youth delegate, thus embarking on my maiden trip to East Africa. Everything I encountered exerted an impact on my cognition towards nature, ecology and society. Kenya is a place where modern and primitive civilization mix and intermingle, and modern cities with skyscrapers and primitive tribes with traditional lifestyle co-exist. I try to recollect and relish each episode, moment and detail of the trip: the unscrupulous gale in MasaiMara National Park, the morning dews in Nairobi, the fragrance clay rain-swept on the way to UN-Habitat…all seems so real and enchanted.
  During our stay we poured our love towards Kenya, but it's was only after we came back did we recognize that it's not just love or fondness. It's like the romantic feeling of a maid, simply, purely and loyally devoted to the land we have trod, the air we have inhaled, and the breeze which had whipped by us.
  我对非洲仅有的一点印象来自丹麦作家卡伦·布里克森的《走出非洲》,但非常有幸的是,作为青年代表我参加了在肯尼亚召开的联合国人居署第25次理事大会。第一次脚踏东非大地上所见所感无一不触动着我对自然、生态和社会认知。肯尼亚是一个现代文明和原始文明相互融合和交汇的地方。这里既有高楼林立的现代都市也有生活传统的原始部落。我试图梳理这一路上的每一个片段,每一个细节,每一瞬间的一点一滴。马赛马拉那肆无忌惮的风,内罗毕每天清晨的露水,前往人居署路上被雨水冲刷后的泥土的芳香。它们是那么真实,让人流连忘返。
  在那里的时候我们可以随心所欲地表达我们对肯尼亚的热爱,但只有回来之后,我才明白,那既不是热爱,也不是喜欢,而是犹如妙龄少女的情怀。朴素,纯情,痴情的爱着,恋着驻足过的每一寸土地,呼吸过的每一口空气,享受过的每一缕微风。
  After the meeting, we rode to MasaiMara, the heaven of animals, over 250 miles away from the capital of Kenya Nairobi. According to the statistics, the bones of "homo habilis" that had lived 3.5million years ago was found in the Rift Valley bordering Tanzania and Kenya in 1975. And a 22-meter-long stretch of footprints of "homo habilis" was found in the hardened volcano ash layer. It means that, as earlier as over 3.5million years ago, there lived people who could walk upright, and they are the earliest group of mankind. The Great Rift Valley stored untold mysteries. Looking down from the hillside to the valley bottom, we found large spaces of greenness, where numerous wonders and hopes of life have been nurtured.
  After appreciating the grandeur of the Great Rift Valley, we were welcomed by a long and bumpy road. The last stretch to MasaiMara is dirt road, nabbed by local people as "the Message of MasaiMara". What a wonder to experience this special greeting from MasaiMarai! At last, the six-hour bumpy trudge finally brought us to the MasaiMara Sopa Lodge deep in MasaiMara, and our real exploration unfolded.   会议结束后,我们驱车前往距离肯尼亚首都内罗毕250多公里外的动物的天堂的马赛马拉。资料记载,1975年在坦桑尼亚与肯尼亚交界处的裂谷地带,发现了距今已经有350万年的“能人”遗骨,并在硬化的火山灰烬层中发现了一段延续22米的“能人”足印。这说明,早在350万年以前,大裂谷地区已经出现能够直立行走的人,属于人类最早的成员。东非大裂谷蕴藏了太多我们尚未触及的隐私,从山腰向谷底望去,那一片绿孕育了数不清的生命的奇迹与希望。
  领略了东非大裂谷的壮丽,接下来迎接我们的是漫长的,颠簸的道路。肯尼亚通往马赛马拉的最后一段路是土路,当地人把它叫做“马赛马拉按摩”,其实能体验一下马赛马拉这片土地独具特色的欢迎方式也是人生一大妙事。最终经历了6个小时的颠簸和长途跋涉,我们抵达了位于马赛马拉深处的马赛马拉索帕酒店。迎接我们的真正的探险之旅就此展开。
  But as for our SUV driver George, it's but another ordinary day. It's just a potluck for him to ride into the hinterland of grassland and have close contacts with leopards and lions. The long rainy season for MasaiMara is from autumn to November, during which lush water plants allure diverse wild animals. I expect I will revisit MasaiMara at its rainy season so I can savor a different MasaiMara.
  Our SUV departed from MasaiMara Sopa Lodge to the vast expanses of MasaiMara prairie. Of course, an encounter with wild leopards and lions is what we want most. Amid the rolling savanna live hordes of lions, elephants, rhinoceros, leopards and other animals. Without any doubt, it provides the best vintage point for viewing wildlife. Sadly, none of the wild animals entered into our view in the first one-hour. 10 minutes later, we finally ran into three male lions resting on a boulder. Looking rather lethargic, they lay on the sleek boulder with hands and legs in the air, totally undisturbed of the uninvited tourists. They are the host of the prairie, and we are but some passing travelers lingering momentarily here. Kenya government shows great commitment and put many efforts at protecting wildlife. The Kenya wildlife reserve accounts for 8% of the national territorial area. But due to the expansion of the life space of mankind, the survival of animals is under great threat. Kenya government made strict legislation on wildlife protection to maintain the equilibrium of ecology, which deserves special commendation for a less developed country.
  对于我们的越野车司机乔治来说,今天是太过平常的一天。每日深入草原腹地和猎豹、狮子进行无数次的亲密接触,对于他来说早就已经是家常便饭了。同样值得一提的是,每年的8月到11月是马赛马拉的长雨季,丰美的水草吸引各种野生动物的到来。也希望下一次可以这个月份再来,领略不一样的马赛马拉。
  越野车开出马赛马拉索帕酒店,便是一望无际的马赛马拉大草原,对于我们来说这次旅行最为期待的莫过于见识一下真正的野生猎豹和狮子。马赛马拉大草原由开阔的原野,广袤的灌木林带,河流和森林组成了这里独特的地貌。在连绵起伏的热带稀树大草原里,栖息着成群的狮子,大象,犀牛和猎豹等动物。这里无疑是世界上最佳的野生动物观赏地。遗憾的是,乘车出行了大概1小时,我们都没有遇到什么特别的动物。大约10分钟之后,才遇到了正在一块大石头上面休息的3头雌性狮子。它们显得十分慵懒,四脚朝天的躺在光滑的石头上面,丝毫没有受到游客的干扰。在这里动物才是主人,马赛马拉草原属于他们,我们只是这片草原在某一瞬间的过客罢了。不得不提的是,肯尼亚政府对于保护野生动物所下的决心和努力。肯尼亚野生动物保护区占国土面积的8%,但是由于人类生活空间的扩展,动物们的生存仍然受到很大的威胁,为此肯尼亚政府制定了严密的野生动物保护法律来保证生态的平衡,这对于一个经济欠发达国家来说实属不易。
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