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恒河上的船夫正在向外舀着船舱里的积水,外形狭长的小船有着暮色一样苍茫的颜色,尖尖的船头聚拢在一起,对着看不见的圆心。夜色降临之后,这些小船将载着游客在河面上缓慢飘荡,观看每晚在烛光和火焰中举行的河神之祭。这是湿婆神之城——瓦拉纳西。此刻,恒河岸边的大台阶上,有儿童在放风筝。乞丐、牛和狗倒卧在布满污秽的地上,对岸荒芜的白色沙滩空无一人。空气中飘来焦灼的气息,黑色碎屑隐约可见。不远处的河边火光熊熊,正在焚烧尸体的火焰昼夜不息,距离焚尸点不过三四百米的上游,人们在平静地沐浴、饮水、洗涤。生与死在印度如此靠近,就像黑色的恒河一样充满慈悲。
The gondoliers on the Ganges are scooping the water in the cockpit outwards, and the long, narrow boat has the same twilight color as the prowed prongs gather together against the invisible center. After the night falls, these boats will carry tourists floating slowly across the river and watch the night’s festival of the river god held in candlelight and fire. This is the city of Lord Shiva - Varanasi. At the moment, children are flying kites on the great steps along the Ganges. Beggars, cattle and dogs lie luridly on the dirt floor, empty on the deserted white sand beach. Floating air in the breath, black debris looming. Not far from the river flames, burning the body’s fire day and night, from the cremation point but three or four hundred meters upstream, people calmly bath, water, washing. Life and death are so close in India, just as full of compassion as the black Ganges.