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一、引言海浪谱已成为当今海浪研究的中心问题。自Neumann最先于1953年提出一个风浪频谱表示形式,并用于海浪预报以来,三十多年来,许多海浪研究者一直在致力于求得一个精确和符合实际的海浪谱。其中Pierson和Moskowitz(1964)的充分成长风浪谱、我国文圣常教授所领导的研究组(1966)提出的深浅海波谱、Hasselman等人(1973)提出的受制于风区的JONSWAP谱,在海浪预报、海浪模拟及工程设计中应用较广泛。这些谱和其它一些谱都具有基本相似的形式,其中频率指数为常数和固定
I. INTRODUCTION The wave spectrum has become a central issue in today’s wave research. For more than three decades since many waves researchers have been working on a precise and realistic wave spectrum since Neumann first proposed a wave spectrum representation in 1953 and used it for wave forecasting. Among them, the fully-grown wind waves of Pierson and Moskowitz (1964), the deep-sea wave spectrum proposed by the research group led by Professor Wensheng Chang of our country (1966), the JONSWAP spectrum controlled by the wind of Hasselman et al. (1973) Forecast, wave simulation and engineering design is widely used. These and other spectra all have a substantially similar form with frequency indices constant and fixed