在江孜饭店住下之后,最想去的地方就是在年楚河一侧的帕拉庄园。对我们这把年纪的人来说,虽然读俄罗斯作家的小说不多,但纳波科夫的名字还算有听过。纳波科夫在自传《说吧!记忆》中回忆童年在自家庄园中的诸般情景,言语虽幽默,字里行间却依稀有了哽咽。 庄园在过去的年代一度是剥削阶级的象征,这也导致纳波科夫一生不得不流亡国外,但曾几何时,随着俄罗斯文学的普及,与贵族生活有关的“庄园”却不可抵御地成了众多小资们怀旧的对象,就象上海之于张爱玲。有时我也痛恨自己动不动怀旧的恶习。 那天下年没有来得及去帕拉庄园,第二天去的时候,正好赶上大雨。江孜整个天空都是阴晦的,雨如瓢泼。车穿过江孜正在翻修的街道,两边的人在冒雨交易酥油、新鲜牛羊肉、皮毛和毡垫,市声嘈杂,很热闹, After staying in Gyangze Hotel, the place you want to go is the Parra Manor on the side of the year Chu River. For us as an old man, although there are not many novels to read Russian writers, Nabokov’s name has not been heard. In his autobiography, “Say it! Memory”, Nabokov recalled all the scenes of his childhood in his own manor. Although the words were humorous, his words were vaguely choked. In the past, the manor was once a symbol of the exploiting class, which also led to Nabokov’s life had to go abroad. However, with the popularization of Russian literature, the “manor” related to aristocratic life became irresistible. Petty people nostalgic objects, like Shanghai in Eileen Chang. Sometimes I hate myself for nostalgia. The next year did not have time to go to Parra Manor, the next day to just catch up with heavy rain. Gyangze sky is dark, the rain pouring. The car crosses the street under renovation in Gyangze. The people on both sides are trading in ghee, fresh beef and mutton, fur and felt mats, and the noise in the city is loud and lively.