七月流火的季节,我从郑州出差到青海。过了兰州,火车便沿着黄河蜿蜒而驰,直到八盘峡水库,才转而沿着湟水河畔逆流前行。从车窗望去,湟水两岸高山起伏,重峦叠嶂。湟水北边绵延的达坂山,南面的拉脊山,全都山石裸露,难觅一点绿色。湟水浑得如稠糊糊,流得很慢,象一槽泥浆在涌动。晚上10点多,车到西宁。西宁的夜晚凉爽极了,盖着厚厚的棉被,这在燠热的郑州简直不可思议。翌日早,我便乘车去龙羊峡。汽车出了市区,便沿着青藏公路一头扎进崇山峻岭中。行驶间,我突然看见路旁竖着一块蓝色的铁牌上写着“湟源县”。原来,湟水河源在这儿呀! July flow of fire season, I travel from Zhengzhou to Qinghai. After Lanzhou, the train would meander along the Yellow River until it reached the bank of the Bapanxia Reservoir. Looked from the window, Swish mountains on both sides of ups and downs, heavy mountain peaks. The water stretches Daban Mountains to the north and Lajishan in the south, all of them are barely covered with rocks and hard to find a little green. Muddy muddy muddy, flowing very slowly, like a tank of mud in the surging. More than 10 o’clock in the evening, the car to Xining. Xining cool night, covered with a thick quilt, which is really incredible in the hot Zhengzhou. The next morning, I would ride to Longyangxia. Car out of urban areas, along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway headlong into the mountains. Driving, I suddenly saw the roadside vertical piece of blue iron plate reads “Laiyuan County.” It turned out that Huang Heyuan here!