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本文从袁业立(1988)改进的破碎波统计模型出发,对破碎进行了统计研究,结果表明,破碎将通过破碎滤波函数使各频率的波产生非均匀的能量损失,以及破碎将造成谱峰向低频移动的现象,根据破碎前后的谱能改变得出一个理论上的定量的耗散函数,该源函数在LAGFD的第三代海浪数值模式中得到成功的应用,从谱能平衡方程出发,推导出理论上全新的饱合谱表达式,该式表明饱合谱与其频率的幂次关系不是一常数,而是随频率的改变而改变,以及其主要部分为频率的负4.5次方。
Based on the statistical analysis of the broken wave model improved by Yuan Yeli (1988), this dissertation makes a statistical study on the fragmentation. The results show that the crushing will generate non-uniform energy loss through the wave filtering function at each frequency, and the fragmentation will cause the peak to low frequency The phenomenon of migration is based on the change of spectrum before and after fragmentation to obtain a theoretically quantitative dissipation function. The source function is successfully applied in the LAGFD third-generation ocean wave numerical model. Based on the spectral energy balance equation, Theoretically a new saturated spectral expression, which shows that the power spectrum of the frequency spectrum is not a constant power relationship, but changes with the frequency changes, and the main part of the frequency of the negative 4.5 power.