近日读何金铭《长安食话》,有一篇《地软包子》,是介绍西安的一款包子。西安有大油包子、大肉包子、白糖包子等等,何先生偏去介绍“地软包子”,看来是因为有其独特性。的确,用地软(即地耳,状如木耳而小,于地上匍匐生长)来作为包子的馅料,在别处是少见的。其实馅料以豆腐为主——一份地软配两份豆腐。地软是浸发过的,豆腐蒸后切成小丁,调料为姜米、麻油及盐等。这种包子馅心松软,吃来清淡爽口,越吃越香。我读后有了想法,想到上海包子品种既单调,制作又粗放,与上 Recently read Ho Kim Ming, “Chang food words,” there is a “ground buns” is introduced in Xi’an buns. Xi’an has big oil buns, big meat buns, sugar buns, etc., Mr Ho to introduce the “buns”, it seems because of its uniqueness. Indeed, the use of soft ground fillings (ie, ears, like mushrooms, creeping on the ground) is a rare filling in buns. In fact, the main stuffing to tofu - a soft with two copies of tofu. Ground soft is soaked, tofu steamed into small Ding, seasoning ginger rice, sesame oil and salt. This buns filling soft heart, eat light refreshing, eat more fragrant. I read the idea, think of the Shanghai buns both monotonous, production and extensive, and on