感受浙江

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  2014年,我去杭州進行结婚登记。因为我刚结婚的老婆被工作单位叫走了,我要陪我一天之前才认识的岳父去西湖游览四个小时。他是第一次跟一个外国人见面。不用说,亲情此刻显得特别尴尬,会令我们两个心力交瘁。西湖边当时一辆空的出租车也没有,我们挤进一辆拥挤的公交车内。公交车后面没地方站,我们在司机的旁边站着。
  开到一条斑马线前,正准备往右转,司机却重重地踩了刹车。惯性的冲力让我们两个撞到了挡风玻璃上,我的岳父厉声说:“你干嘛?”司机指向一位刚开始过马路的行人,他离我们至少有一车道左右距离。在我有些惊讶的同时,司机整理了一下领带,带着一点骄傲感,说:“规则就是规则,我们要遵守。”
  这句话让我印象深刻。规则就是规则,我们要遵守。不要向行人按喇叭,并且更重要的是,让行人先走过去,这并不只是合乎法律,也是人与人之间的相互尊重。把规则与尊重结合起来,形成一个耳熟能详的单词:文明。以我的经验而言,杭州市民都把这个单词放在他们的心上。也是在杭州,我在路上遇到过当地人曾两次问我:“需不需要帮助?”这本身不是那么特殊,但特殊的是我记得,那两次我手里没拿地图,脸上也没有任何“我迷路”的表情,我能感觉他们只是想关心我,他们愿意提供帮助。
  话说回斑马线上礼让行人的例子,也许这就是为什么杭州能成为国家新交通规则示范区的原因。在斑马线上不让行人是违法的。法治支持尊重,明确执行规则的标准以取得信任。作为普通行人和利用自行车出行的人,我对这个交通规则已经在杭州牢牢落地感到欣慰。我岳父说他的老友们也开始渐渐接受这个新规则。
  诸如斑马线礼让行人以明文规定的这些改革不断扩大到其他地区,同时改革还包含浙江的遗迹与自然之美的文化意义被再一次挖掘。乌镇,坚持着一个平衡:古老的历史遗迹与受欢迎的人工智能设计相结合,您很难找到同样的古镇了,有一千年历史的石桥,两侧是行人走过桥时会闪灯的智能斑马线。
  改革也作用于浙江的自然风光。作为一个爱好户外运动的人,为了逃离城市的混凝土丛林,我周末常常在宁海国家山路健身步道上徒步。穿越过丛丛竹林、清澈透明的龙潭与石头村,五百多公里的山路都有良好的标识,而且每一处都能在散发自然的魅力。自从2009年以后,当地政府决定免费开放,没有任何水泥楼梯,没有商业化的过度加工。一整天的锻炼之后,在夜晚的星空下露营,不仅令人意识到环境的重要性,更重要的是享受到了环境保护给我们带来的益处,更加深刻感受到保护地球是每一个人的责任。
  对于规则的尊重,对于历史遗迹和自然环境的保护,都是文明社会的重要组成。不仅在浙江,而且在整个中国,我不断通过亲身体验,感受到了文明的彰显。
  (作者旅居中国近20年,目前与中国妻子定居上海,
  致力于促进中西交流,已出版三部相关著作。)
  “Rules are rules, and they should be respected”
  By Kevin Smith
  It was about seven years ago, in 2014, when I was registering my marriage in Hangzhou. My newly married wife called away for business, I took a four-hour walk around West Lake with a father-in-law I had just met the day before. It was his first time to have ever met a foreigner. It goes without saying the awkward bonding left the two of us both mentally and physically exhausted. West Lake being a tourist hotspot, with no taxis readily available, we squeezed onto a public bus. With no room in the back, we stood up front next to the driver.
  Approaching a crosswalk, readying to turn right, the driver tapped his breaks a little too hard. The momentum sending the two of us almost crashing into the windshield, my father-in-law snapped, “What’d you do that for?” The driver pointed to a pedestrian who had just begun to cross the road. He was at least a lane away. “Rules are rules and they should be respected,” the driver said with a sense of pride, adjusting his tie.
  Rules are rules, and they should be respected. Not hitting the horn at a pedestrian, or more importantly, allowing them the right of way isn’t just lawful, but a mutual respect between individuals. Combining these two words, law and respect, creates a word that I regularly hear in China: civility or wenming (文明). In the past, it often fell on deaf ears as an empty motto, a slogan to be repeated without thought or actual practice. But, from my experience, Hangzhou city and the residents there take it to heart. It is the only city in China that I have been stopped twice and asked, “Can I help you?” This in itself may not be special. What left a lasting impression was that there was no map in my hand or a confused look that said “I’m lost” upon my face. It was almost as if they only wanted to check in, letting me know they were there if I needed any help.   Perhaps this is why Hangzhou is often a testing ground for new laws prior to their nationwide implementation. Not giving the right of way to pedestrians at a crosswalk became a punishable offense. Rule of law supports respect. Clearly defined consequences that are acted upon creates trust. While it took some time for my second home, Shanghai, to catch on, as a biker and a pedestrian I appreciate a law that is now firmly in place. My father-in-law reports that his fellow townsmen are gradually accepting the new law as well.
  These reforms have continued to extend outwards, encompassing Zhejiang’s cultural relics as well as its natural beauty. For example, a number of the province’s ancient river towns have had their cultural significance rediscovered. Wuzhen, one of those impressive “water towns”, has balanced itself as both an ancient living museum and a welcomer of Artificial Intelligent design: you would be hard-pressed to find another ancient town that has 1,000-year-old stone bridges alongside smart crosswalks that light up as pedestrians cross.
  The province’s abundance of nature is also feeling the effects of reform. A man of the outdoors, I regularly escape Shanghai’s concrete jungle for weekend hikes along the Ninghai National Trail System (NTS). Over 500 kilometers of trail through bamboo forests, alongside crystal-clear dragon pools and stone villages is well marked, but retains its natural charm. Since 2009, the local government has kept it free of fees; there are no concrete steps and zero commercialism. Camping beneath the stars after a day of exercise can help us to recognize the importance of the environment and that it is everyone’s duty to protect what it offers.
  Whether respecting the rules, preserving cultural heritage or protecting the natural environment, they are all part and parcel of a wenming or civilized society, which I’ve experienced not only in Zhejiang but now increasingly all across China.
  Kevin Smith is a published author who is constantly trying to improve his wenming, though seemingly forever losing the battle. Acting as a window, albeit an infinitesimal one, Kevin hopes that his writing can shine a glint of light on a different perspective.
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