日式居酒屋最耐人寻味的不是串烧或刺身,而是清清白白、简简单单的豆腐。今人寻常可见的豆腐,一度是日本江户初时贵族、武士阶层的奢侈食材,逐渐流行于世后,还有文人为其著书立传。这一方软嫩的背后蕴藏着何等的精致,我是久居京都后才慢慢体会到的。刚来日本时,师友聚会。老师问:日本的食物,最喜欢什么?我想了想,答:豆腐!周围是一片“不可思议”的表情。师兄问:为什么单单偏爱豆腐?中国不也有豆腐?这位师兄常年修禅,我投其所好,给出了一个很玄的答案:因为豆腐——有禅之味。众人都笑,师兄大为惊喜:能吃出禅之昧,很好!其实我并不知道什么是禅之味,不过附会而已。但对于豆腐,不论中国的还是日本的,我确实都很喜欢。童年旧居巷内有家豆腐坊,经日磨豆的香气萦绕不散。客居京都,日常也不离豆 The most intriguing aspect of a Japanese Izakaya is not skewered or sashimi, but plain, simple tofu. Today, people can see the tofu, once the beginning of Japan’s Edo nobles, warriors luxury extravaganza, gradually popular in the world, as well as literati book writing. What kind of exquisiteness is behind the tenderness of this side, and I realized it after I lived in Kyoto for a long time. When I first came to Japan, my teachers and friends gathered. The teacher asked: Japanese food, what do you like the most? I thought, A: tofu! Around is a “incredible ” expression. Brother asked: Why just prefer tofu? China also do not have tofu? The teacher perennial meditation, I voted for it, gave a very mysterious answer: because tofu - Zen flavor. Everyone laughs, brothers surprise: to eat the Zen of ignorance, very good! In fact, I do not know what is the taste of Zen, but the attachment only. But for tofu, whether in China or in Japan, I really like it. Old Lane Lane childhood home tofu Square, by the smell of grinding beans linger. Guest Kyoto, daily nor from the beans