好多年前,在墨西哥的一个名叫奎尔纳瓦卡的小城里参观博物馆,很意外地看到几件精致的中国瓷器。这是清代中期的青花餐具,盘子和碗碟上描绘着山水人物,青白相间的色泽。很纯粹的中国情调。见我惊讶,博物馆的讲解员告诉我,这些瓷器,是当年进口中国茶叶时,放在茶叶箱中压舱的。在他们的印象中,象征中国的东西有两件,一件是瓷器,一件是茶。而瓷器往往是作为茶的陪衬。看外国人说起中国的茶时那种肃然起敬的样子,不禁生出很多感慨来。中国人喝茶的历史,几乎和中国经济文化的历史同样漫长。喝茶最初只是一种生理需要——解渴,但喝到后来,在茶中喝出了文化,喝出了形形色色和茶有关的艺术,喝茶的过程,成了一种审美的过程,这也是事实。古代的诗人们曾经因为喝茶写出很多绝妙的诗,我一直记得卢全的《七碗茶诗》,写喝到好茶时的感觉:“一碗喉吻润,二碗破孤闷。三碗搜枯肠,唯有文字五千卷。四碗发轻汗,平生不平 Many years ago, visiting a museum in a small town in Cuernavaca, Mexico, surprised to see a few exquisite Chinese porcelain. This is the middle of the Qing Dynasty blue and white tableware, plates and dishes depicting landscape characters, blue and white color. Very pure Chinese mood. See I was surprised, the museum’s instructor told me that these porcelain, is the year when the Chinese tea imports, placed in the box of tea ballast. In their impression, there are two things that symbolize China: one is porcelain and the other is tea. Porcelain is often used as a foil to tea. When I look at the awe-inspiring look of foreigners talking about Chinese tea, I can not help feeling a lot of emotion. The history of drinking tea by Chinese people is almost as long as the history of Chinese economy and culture. Tea was originally just a physiological need - to quench their thirst, but after drinking, drinking in the tea culture, drank all kinds of tea-related art, tea, has become an aesthetic process, which is also fact. The ancient poets once wrote many wonderful poems for tea. I always remembered Lu Quan’s “Seven Bowl Tea Poems” and the feeling of writing and drinking tea: "A bowl of larynx kisses and the two bowls are pierced. Three bowls of search wounded, only the text five thousand volumes, four bowls of light sweat, uneven life