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冰川旅游虽是件很刺激很另类的事，但迄今为止除了冰川考察人员外，只有极少数的人登攀过冰川。
不久前，笔者与朋友相约，有幸登攀和游览了“七一冰川”，留下的感觉终生难忘。
千年冰川有3000多条
长达一千多公里的祁连山 “七一冰川”，藏卧在嘉峪关市西南的祁连深谷中。祁连山有大小冰川3000多条，冰川储量达1145亿立方米，“七一冰川”是祁连山众多冰川中离城市最近的一个。“七一冰川”的形成已有1000多年历史，发现这条冰川则在上个世纪的1958年。
那是新中国历史上的一个特殊历史时期，因为各行各业需要“大跃进”，甘肃省和中国科学院商定大规模地展开祁连山冰川考察，计划在半年时间内基本摸清祁连山冰川资源的分布和数量。于是短短10天内一支百人高山冰雪利用研究队成立了，这是中国的第一个冰川考察队，还请了苏联冰川专家做顾问。
据中科院研究员、考察队副队长、我国冰川学元老施雅风介绍，他们全队于1958年的6月30日出发，很快进入祁连深山中，到达海拔4000米的时候，一些人就出现高山缺氧反应，但大家坚持继续前进。将近中午，当他们翻过一座陡峭的小山之后，一条巨大的冰川出现在他们的视野里。
大家兴奋地从冰舌爬上冰面，一边向上攀登，一边进行各种测量、取样和考察。经过两三个小时的艰难攀登，有一部分人终于登达冰川的至高点。这条冰川上宽下窄，上面由4个粒雪盆组成，下面伸出一条很长的冰舌，后来从航空照片上测算，这条冰川总长为3.5公里，最宽的地方2.4公里，估算至少有1.6亿立方的储水量，相当于北京十三陵水库蓄水量的两倍。
因为考察发现的日子是1958年的7月1日，又是中国第一次对冰川的考察，所以这条冰川就被命名为“七一冰川”。
领略“一日四季”奇妙景色
我们这次从嘉峪关市启程一路西南行，穿过浩瀚戈壁和荒原后，进入了祁连山的褶皱山峦地带，再经过崎岖山路的两个多小时颠簸之后，就到了“七一冰川”的登山点。
行前就听说去冰川的路上天气一日几变，一日之内便有春夏秋冬四季的景色变换。进入“七一冰川”果真如此：这里时而飞云、滚雷，时而暴雨倾盆而下，倏忽又晴天朗日，到了海拔更高的地方，忽又寒风刺骨，冰碴纷落……一路上，只见两边山坡生长着不少奇异野草和山花，还有长满了毛茸茸的雪莲。到后来路越来越窄，海拔已超过4000米，空气变得异常稀薄，天上又忽然摔下铜钱大的冰碴。大家突然感觉很冷，感到头痛、胸闷，多数人出现了程度不同的高山反应。待到我们艰难地爬上一个乱石密布的山岗时，看到一座石碑，上面刻着“七一冰川”4个大字，呵！我们终于到了目的地，这里的海拔为4800米。
此时此刻，久仰的“七一冰川”就在眼前，站在山谷高处俯看脚下冰川，俨然就是一条白色巨龙！它从远处蜿蜒而来，那至极的白、那浩瀚、那壮美，构成了一幅绝美的冰川奇景，呵，这是天工与地球的孩子，大自然神奇力量的杰作！
捷足先到的一些年轻人爬到了冰河的冰面上打着滚儿，大呼小叫地疯着。其实这是很危险的，冰川往往有不少冰隙深不可测，只是它被表面的积雪覆盖着，如果不小心踩在冰隙上，那就会堕入“万丈深渊”的！新疆的“天山一号冰川”就发生过一位日本小姐掉进冰缝身亡的事件。
上山容易下山难，我们又遇到大雨，山路一片泥泞，稍不留心就会滑下山谷，然而奇怪的是，正因为险象环生，来此一游的人却更加乐此不疲。
四方游客纷至沓来
1986年嘉峪关市将“七一冰川”列为旅游景点，修了登山便道，建了游人借以避雨的房屋，上山登临游冰川的人渐渐多起来了。除了国内旅游者外，前去登山的还有台湾人、香港人、日本人和别的西方人。但由于这一景点海拔高，安全性低，当地政府于2002年开始，又对“七一冰川”再度进行了开发和包装，建设了通达山下的车行道路，有些地方做了护坡，重建了4.3公里的上山人行道，部分地段搞了人造台阶。在山脚下设立了旅游服务营地，建设了接待、救护用房及其他相关旅游配套设施，于是前往“七一冰川”旅游者就变得容易了许多。近几年一到夏秋季节，来旅游的人成倍增长，专业的登山探险者、业余的探险驴团驴友也是纷至沓来，不绝于山。
登临冰川，向导向我们介绍：现在冰川开始退缩，冰舌所处的位置已比前些年高了许多，我国科学家近年通过实地观测发现，“七一冰川”确实在萎缩！主要表现为“冰川物质出现严重的负平衡、冰川零平衡线位置不断升高”，尤其近几年的冰雪消融量远远大于积累量，冰川物质亏损严重，冰面已出现显著的减薄状态，这是近30年来所有观测资料中负平衡值最大的年段。专家们指出，这反映了大气变暖对冰川的影响，如果气候变暖趋势继续，冰川的萎缩还会加剧。因为人类对大气候的变化无能为力，不知道若干年后“七一冰川”还会离我们那么近吗？
（本文摄影红桦）
Adventure Tour to Glacier
There are not many people who have toured glaciers. I have. My experience of visiting the July 1 Glacier in the summer 2006 is unforgettable.
Tucked away in the Qilian Mountains which extend more than 1,000 kilometers, the July 1 Glacier is in a remote valley southwest of Jiayuguan City in China’s northwestern Gansu Province. Of more than 3,000 glaciers in the Qilian Mountains, this one is the nearest to a city. The July 1 Glacier is more than 1,000 years old and it was found in 1958.
The year 1958 was a special year in a special period after New China came into being. The Great Leap Forward Movement generated this large-scale geographic investigation. Gansu Province and the China Academy of Sciences organized a team of 100 experts within ten days and planned to survey all the glaciers in the Qilian Mountains.
The expedition started on June 30, 1958 and pretty soon the team entered the mountains. Near the noon of July 1, the team saw an expansive glacier unfurl before their eyes. The experts were excited. They mounted the glacier and began to gather samples and data. After three hours?efforts, some reached the crown of the glacier. Pictures taken later by airplanes showed that the glacier was 3.5 kilometers long and the widest part was 2.4 kilometers. The ice of the glacier equaled 160 million cubic meters of water. The glacier was named July 1 Glacier in commemoration of the day it was found.
Since the glacier became a tourist destination in 1986, infrastructure and tourist facilities have been added there to make the glacier adventure safe and convenient. A large-scale construction project in 2002 has enabled visitors to hike up a 4.3-kilometer-long path to the top of the glacier. More and more mountaineers from Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan and Europe as well as domestic tourists flock there to view the glacier.
Some friends and I took a bus tour from Jiayuguan City to the Glacier. The two-hour bumpy ride revealed amazing picturesque scenery of the highland climate. Before our trip we had learned that the weather here was erratic and that we could experience changes of four seasons within one single day. It was true. After a thunder storm, sunshine streaked down from a cloudless blue sky. We saw nameless verdant grass, flowers and velvety Saussurea involucrata on slopes beside the highway. As altitude rose gradually above 4,000 meters, wind became icy. The road narrowed as the air thinned. Some of us had difficulty breathing. Suddenly coin-sized chilly hailstones rained down. It became extremely cold. We had headache and a choking sensation in the chest. On a low hill thickly strewn with rocks, we saw a monument bearing July 1 Glacier in Chinese characters. The altitude here was 4,800 meters above sea level.
The view from the top was breathtakingly beautiful. The glacier looked like a white dragon. It was extremely white, grand, and magnificent. It was indeed a powerful masterpiece of nature.
Some young people were rolling on the glacier and shouting with excitement. But it was very risky to do so. A glacier always has some crevices covered by accumulated snow. We were told that a young Japanese woman fell into such a hidden crevice in a glacier in Xinjiang and got killed. On our way down, we were caught in a big rain. The path became quite slippery.
The guide told us that the glacial tongue had been withdrawing for years. Scientists have found that July 1 Glacier is dwindling. Over the last few years, snow melting has been faster than snow accumulating. Data shows that the glacier has been shrinking at the fastest rate over the last few years. As climate continues to warm up, the glacier will further collapse. As we can do nothing about the macro climate changes, will the July 1 Glacier be as close to us in a few years as it is today?
(Translated by David)
不久前，笔者与朋友相约，有幸登攀和游览了“七一冰川”，留下的感觉终生难忘。
千年冰川有3000多条
长达一千多公里的祁连山 “七一冰川”，藏卧在嘉峪关市西南的祁连深谷中。祁连山有大小冰川3000多条，冰川储量达1145亿立方米，“七一冰川”是祁连山众多冰川中离城市最近的一个。“七一冰川”的形成已有1000多年历史，发现这条冰川则在上个世纪的1958年。
那是新中国历史上的一个特殊历史时期，因为各行各业需要“大跃进”，甘肃省和中国科学院商定大规模地展开祁连山冰川考察，计划在半年时间内基本摸清祁连山冰川资源的分布和数量。于是短短10天内一支百人高山冰雪利用研究队成立了，这是中国的第一个冰川考察队，还请了苏联冰川专家做顾问。
据中科院研究员、考察队副队长、我国冰川学元老施雅风介绍，他们全队于1958年的6月30日出发，很快进入祁连深山中，到达海拔4000米的时候，一些人就出现高山缺氧反应，但大家坚持继续前进。将近中午，当他们翻过一座陡峭的小山之后，一条巨大的冰川出现在他们的视野里。
大家兴奋地从冰舌爬上冰面，一边向上攀登，一边进行各种测量、取样和考察。经过两三个小时的艰难攀登，有一部分人终于登达冰川的至高点。这条冰川上宽下窄，上面由4个粒雪盆组成，下面伸出一条很长的冰舌，后来从航空照片上测算，这条冰川总长为3.5公里，最宽的地方2.4公里，估算至少有1.6亿立方的储水量，相当于北京十三陵水库蓄水量的两倍。
因为考察发现的日子是1958年的7月1日，又是中国第一次对冰川的考察，所以这条冰川就被命名为“七一冰川”。
领略“一日四季”奇妙景色
我们这次从嘉峪关市启程一路西南行，穿过浩瀚戈壁和荒原后，进入了祁连山的褶皱山峦地带，再经过崎岖山路的两个多小时颠簸之后，就到了“七一冰川”的登山点。
行前就听说去冰川的路上天气一日几变，一日之内便有春夏秋冬四季的景色变换。进入“七一冰川”果真如此：这里时而飞云、滚雷，时而暴雨倾盆而下，倏忽又晴天朗日，到了海拔更高的地方，忽又寒风刺骨，冰碴纷落……一路上，只见两边山坡生长着不少奇异野草和山花，还有长满了毛茸茸的雪莲。到后来路越来越窄，海拔已超过4000米，空气变得异常稀薄，天上又忽然摔下铜钱大的冰碴。大家突然感觉很冷，感到头痛、胸闷，多数人出现了程度不同的高山反应。待到我们艰难地爬上一个乱石密布的山岗时，看到一座石碑，上面刻着“七一冰川”4个大字，呵！我们终于到了目的地，这里的海拔为4800米。
此时此刻，久仰的“七一冰川”就在眼前，站在山谷高处俯看脚下冰川，俨然就是一条白色巨龙！它从远处蜿蜒而来，那至极的白、那浩瀚、那壮美，构成了一幅绝美的冰川奇景，呵，这是天工与地球的孩子，大自然神奇力量的杰作！
捷足先到的一些年轻人爬到了冰河的冰面上打着滚儿，大呼小叫地疯着。其实这是很危险的，冰川往往有不少冰隙深不可测，只是它被表面的积雪覆盖着，如果不小心踩在冰隙上，那就会堕入“万丈深渊”的！新疆的“天山一号冰川”就发生过一位日本小姐掉进冰缝身亡的事件。
上山容易下山难，我们又遇到大雨，山路一片泥泞，稍不留心就会滑下山谷，然而奇怪的是，正因为险象环生，来此一游的人却更加乐此不疲。
四方游客纷至沓来
1986年嘉峪关市将“七一冰川”列为旅游景点，修了登山便道，建了游人借以避雨的房屋，上山登临游冰川的人渐渐多起来了。除了国内旅游者外，前去登山的还有台湾人、香港人、日本人和别的西方人。但由于这一景点海拔高，安全性低，当地政府于2002年开始，又对“七一冰川”再度进行了开发和包装，建设了通达山下的车行道路，有些地方做了护坡，重建了4.3公里的上山人行道，部分地段搞了人造台阶。在山脚下设立了旅游服务营地，建设了接待、救护用房及其他相关旅游配套设施，于是前往“七一冰川”旅游者就变得容易了许多。近几年一到夏秋季节，来旅游的人成倍增长，专业的登山探险者、业余的探险驴团驴友也是纷至沓来，不绝于山。
登临冰川，向导向我们介绍：现在冰川开始退缩，冰舌所处的位置已比前些年高了许多，我国科学家近年通过实地观测发现，“七一冰川”确实在萎缩！主要表现为“冰川物质出现严重的负平衡、冰川零平衡线位置不断升高”，尤其近几年的冰雪消融量远远大于积累量，冰川物质亏损严重，冰面已出现显著的减薄状态，这是近30年来所有观测资料中负平衡值最大的年段。专家们指出，这反映了大气变暖对冰川的影响，如果气候变暖趋势继续，冰川的萎缩还会加剧。因为人类对大气候的变化无能为力，不知道若干年后“七一冰川”还会离我们那么近吗？
（本文摄影红桦）
Adventure Tour to Glacier
There are not many people who have toured glaciers. I have. My experience of visiting the July 1 Glacier in the summer 2006 is unforgettable.
Tucked away in the Qilian Mountains which extend more than 1,000 kilometers, the July 1 Glacier is in a remote valley southwest of Jiayuguan City in China’s northwestern Gansu Province. Of more than 3,000 glaciers in the Qilian Mountains, this one is the nearest to a city. The July 1 Glacier is more than 1,000 years old and it was found in 1958.
The year 1958 was a special year in a special period after New China came into being. The Great Leap Forward Movement generated this large-scale geographic investigation. Gansu Province and the China Academy of Sciences organized a team of 100 experts within ten days and planned to survey all the glaciers in the Qilian Mountains.
The expedition started on June 30, 1958 and pretty soon the team entered the mountains. Near the noon of July 1, the team saw an expansive glacier unfurl before their eyes. The experts were excited. They mounted the glacier and began to gather samples and data. After three hours?efforts, some reached the crown of the glacier. Pictures taken later by airplanes showed that the glacier was 3.5 kilometers long and the widest part was 2.4 kilometers. The ice of the glacier equaled 160 million cubic meters of water. The glacier was named July 1 Glacier in commemoration of the day it was found.
Since the glacier became a tourist destination in 1986, infrastructure and tourist facilities have been added there to make the glacier adventure safe and convenient. A large-scale construction project in 2002 has enabled visitors to hike up a 4.3-kilometer-long path to the top of the glacier. More and more mountaineers from Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan and Europe as well as domestic tourists flock there to view the glacier.
Some friends and I took a bus tour from Jiayuguan City to the Glacier. The two-hour bumpy ride revealed amazing picturesque scenery of the highland climate. Before our trip we had learned that the weather here was erratic and that we could experience changes of four seasons within one single day. It was true. After a thunder storm, sunshine streaked down from a cloudless blue sky. We saw nameless verdant grass, flowers and velvety Saussurea involucrata on slopes beside the highway. As altitude rose gradually above 4,000 meters, wind became icy. The road narrowed as the air thinned. Some of us had difficulty breathing. Suddenly coin-sized chilly hailstones rained down. It became extremely cold. We had headache and a choking sensation in the chest. On a low hill thickly strewn with rocks, we saw a monument bearing July 1 Glacier in Chinese characters. The altitude here was 4,800 meters above sea level.
The view from the top was breathtakingly beautiful. The glacier looked like a white dragon. It was extremely white, grand, and magnificent. It was indeed a powerful masterpiece of nature.
Some young people were rolling on the glacier and shouting with excitement. But it was very risky to do so. A glacier always has some crevices covered by accumulated snow. We were told that a young Japanese woman fell into such a hidden crevice in a glacier in Xinjiang and got killed. On our way down, we were caught in a big rain. The path became quite slippery.
The guide told us that the glacial tongue had been withdrawing for years. Scientists have found that July 1 Glacier is dwindling. Over the last few years, snow melting has been faster than snow accumulating. Data shows that the glacier has been shrinking at the fastest rate over the last few years. As climate continues to warm up, the glacier will further collapse. As we can do nothing about the macro climate changes, will the July 1 Glacier be as close to us in a few years as it is today?
(Translated by David)