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从北京飞到秘鲁首都利马，到达地球另一端充满隔世文明和外星传说的世界，飞行了30多个小时的飞机就像穿越时空的航班。这座城市依山傍海，从机场驱车前往利马老城区酒店的路上，南美植物、西班牙式建筑、繁忙而乱糟糟的城市、集市中热情的秘鲁人，展现着一种独特的魅力。我们一众旅客顾不上导游加西亚的瞪眼劝阻，5个人挤上一辆计程车就跑了，在路边摊上一通乱吃乱喝，尝试了据说能壮阳味道却令人作呕的秘鲁人参茶，又跑去圣弗兰西斯科修道院瞻仰了7万多具尸骨。
第二天出发后才明白导游加西亚前一晚的良苦用心，我们即将前往的热带雨林和印加古道都是需要游人一步一步走出来的，她希望我们保存体力，不要兴奋过度。这一天我们从利马乘飞机前往亚马逊雨林，开始了披荆斩棘的旅程。南美的雨林很神秘，很容易迷路，而我们一行人完全依赖加西亚的判断，生怕跟丢了。外表年轻稚气的加西亚有着让人完全信赖的知识与经验。
傍晚时分，我们来到丛林深处的森林屋——Refugio Amazonas。在大片大片油油的绿色、高高的巴西榛果树之间，搭建着我们住的房子。热带雨林异常潮湿所以衣服上都蒙着一层水汽，望着床边雾中的巨大芭蕉林就觉得好像生活在阿凡达的世界。这个森林屋远离城市，每天只有4个小时的供电时间，只能在供电时间段用一个无线网信号跟外界交流。挑空大堂非常宽敞，星星点点的煤油灯通向远处的房间，就像丛林中的皇宫。房间完全开放，没有门没有锁，一边用白色帷幔与走廊隔开，另外一边是茂密的热带雨林，晚上伴着鸟虫青蛙声入睡，扇着蒲扇，仿佛回到了从前躺在竹床上的光景。
早晨降临时，或许是空气太好的缘故，大家一点赖床的欲望都没有。这一天大家都很兴奋，因为我们要去寻访传说中的古代文明马丘比丘。大家对马丘比丘的理解都停留在印加古城4个字上，启程后匆匆和当地高大的羊驼（Aalpaca）合照后，谁也没有意识到接下去旅途的非凡意义。
在和挑夫一同出发之前，大家采购徒步印加古道的最后一样必需品——古柯叶。按照古老的印加传统，加西亚在我们一行6人上路前用古柯叶祭拜了安第斯人世代敬拜的大地之母——帕恰玛玛。一行人随后合影留念，便踏上了印加古道的征程。
一路沿着山路攀登，加西亚一次次地停下脚步等大家赶上，真不知道她纤细的身板里哪来的如此巨大的能量。途中我们遇上一位每走几步就要停下来大喘一通的英国女孩，她的身边跟着一名当地挑夫。女孩名叫索菲，她和同伴一起来秘鲁旅行，自己决定徒步跋涉印加古道，而其他两位朋友则知难而退，乘全景火车去了马丘比丘。他们约定最后在马丘比丘会合。索菲表达出后悔之意。加西亚转身望着她说：“你知道吗？很多人在走上印加古道的第一个小时就后悔了，但当他们走完全程时，每个人都说这是他们一生所做的最正确的决定。”随后索菲加入了我们的队伍，在大家的鼓励下继续前进。
随后的3天大家走走停停，靠着葡萄糖片和古柯叶增加体力。现在我们才知道，朝圣的意义其实是拷问自己的内心，它绝非普通的观景行程可比。到最后一天所有人都精疲力竭了，但因为接近传说中的古城，大家都起得特别早。谁也没想到，挑夫将生鸡蛋保存了一路，就为了大家在印加古道上终于到达太阳门的这一天早晨有新鲜荷包蛋可吃，这令所有人都感动得要命。最后，经过风餐露宿和艰难跋涉，终于能站在当年印加人膜拜圣城的太阳石台的古祭坛边，怀着和他们一样虔诚的心，向这座曾经失落在历史中的印加古城致以深深敬意。据说，人类七次文明的传说就是从这里开始的。
乘着直升机飞回库斯科，离开时加西亚认真地望着我们说：“下次你们再来，就从马丘比丘走回库斯科，那样就可以和印加人媲美了。”
加西亚 Garcia
秘鲁旅程导游 Peruvian Tour Guide
欢迎大家来到秘鲁，这里有你想象不到的古老文明与让人心心旷神怡的风景，有岩石完美堆砌出的城市，会给你留下最美好的记忆。
Welcome to Peru， a country with ancient civilizations， beautiful sceneries， and cities piled up perfectly with rocks. You will have a most beautiful experience here.
The Seventh Civilization — Peru
The more than 30-hour-flight from Beijing to Lima has taken me across time and space to the other end of the world where generations of civilizations and tales of aliens abound. Lima， the capital of Peru， is a coastal city thrived in the valleys. South American plants， Spain style buildings， a chaotic city buzz， and welcoming Peruvians on our way from the airport to the old downtown of Lima is already telling of its unique charm. Against the discouraging glare of our guide， Garcia， the five of us cramped into a taxi and hit the road. We had our share of local food on street stands， tasted the disgusting ginseng tea that is said to be good for the male function， and hastened to the Monastery of San Francisco to revere at the 70，000 bodies buried inside. On the second day， we started to appreciate why Garcia tried to stop us. She had hoped to tell us to save energy， as we had to travel to our destination by the Inca Trail on foot through the rainforest. We took a flight from Lima to the Amazon before we start the treacherous hike. One can easily get lost in the mysterious South American rainforest， and we had to rely solely on Garcia’s judgement. She may be young， but her knowledge and experience of the forest makes it reassuring to follow her steps.
By dawn， we arrived at our forest lodge， the Refugio Amazonas， among the green and tall Brazil hazel trees. The humid air had left a veil of evaporation on our clothes and the huge banana trees seemed to have brought us to the world of Avatar. Far away from the city， the lodge is supplied with power only 4 hours a day， the only time we could communicate with the outside world with a wifi signal. Through the spacious lobby， lined-up kerosene lamps lead to rooms to the far end. It is a palace in the forest. The rooms have no doors and locks， but a white curtain that separates the inside from the corridor. On the other side of the room is the profuse plantations of the Amazon forest. We dozed off to the chirps of birds and croaks of frogs as our memories drift back to the days when there was no electricity and everyone slept on bamboo beds outside the house to keep cool in summer.
Probably because the air was so refreshing， nobody suffered from morning laziness the next day. We were excited about the trip to the legendary ancient civilization of Machu Picchu. We had some quick photos with the alpacas before departing for the ancient Inca city without realizing the significance of our following journey.
We purchased one last necessity—coca leaves. According to Inca tradition， Garcia and the six of us paid tribute to the Mother of Land for the Incas—Pachamama—with coca leaves. We had a group photo， and then started the journey with our porter， Maria.
As we walked up the mountain trail， Maria stopped every now and then for us to catch up， making me wonder where does her strength come from with her slender body. We encountered an English girl on the way who had to pause every few steps to gather strength. The girl， named Sophie， came to Peru with two friends. She decided to took the Inca Trail with the support of a porter while her two friends chose to take a train to Machu Picchu. When Sophie showed signs of regret， Garcia turned to her， “You know， most people would regret after one hour on the Inca trail， but when they finish the whole trail， they would say it is the rightest decision they have ever made.” With our encouragement， Sophie joined us on the pilgrim. We stopped every now and then in the following three days， taking glucose pills and coca leaves to gather energy. We came to realize that the point of a pilgrim is not sightseeing， but a quest of your heart. We were exhausted on the last day， but we all woke up early with an anticipation to finally see the ancient city. We had another pleasant surprise when our porter miraculous produced some fresh eggs and made us omelet. It was so touching. Finally， after all the hardship， we arrived at the ancient altar by the sacred sun dial and paid our respect to a city that was once lost in history， with a heart as pious as the Incas in their heyday. According to legend， it is from here that the seventh human civilization originated.
When we depart for Cusco by helicopter， Garcia bid us farewell with an earnest look， “Next time you come， you can walk from Machu Picchu to Cusco， so you could match the Incas.”
Tips
往北去，在中美洲的墨西哥，可以探索神秘的玛雅文化。奇琴伊察是古玛雅城市遗址，它穿越千年之久，至今依然展现着玛雅人无与伦比的数学造诣和谜一样的文字以及他们的建筑艺术。在这里你还能用味蕾品味玛雅文化，古老的玛雅人用巧克力来供奉神灵，玛雅巧克力长久以来被人们认为是巧克力中最纯粹且顶级的。
第二天出发后才明白导游加西亚前一晚的良苦用心，我们即将前往的热带雨林和印加古道都是需要游人一步一步走出来的，她希望我们保存体力，不要兴奋过度。这一天我们从利马乘飞机前往亚马逊雨林，开始了披荆斩棘的旅程。南美的雨林很神秘，很容易迷路，而我们一行人完全依赖加西亚的判断，生怕跟丢了。外表年轻稚气的加西亚有着让人完全信赖的知识与经验。
傍晚时分，我们来到丛林深处的森林屋——Refugio Amazonas。在大片大片油油的绿色、高高的巴西榛果树之间，搭建着我们住的房子。热带雨林异常潮湿所以衣服上都蒙着一层水汽，望着床边雾中的巨大芭蕉林就觉得好像生活在阿凡达的世界。这个森林屋远离城市，每天只有4个小时的供电时间，只能在供电时间段用一个无线网信号跟外界交流。挑空大堂非常宽敞，星星点点的煤油灯通向远处的房间，就像丛林中的皇宫。房间完全开放，没有门没有锁，一边用白色帷幔与走廊隔开，另外一边是茂密的热带雨林，晚上伴着鸟虫青蛙声入睡，扇着蒲扇，仿佛回到了从前躺在竹床上的光景。
早晨降临时，或许是空气太好的缘故，大家一点赖床的欲望都没有。这一天大家都很兴奋，因为我们要去寻访传说中的古代文明马丘比丘。大家对马丘比丘的理解都停留在印加古城4个字上，启程后匆匆和当地高大的羊驼（Aalpaca）合照后，谁也没有意识到接下去旅途的非凡意义。
在和挑夫一同出发之前，大家采购徒步印加古道的最后一样必需品——古柯叶。按照古老的印加传统，加西亚在我们一行6人上路前用古柯叶祭拜了安第斯人世代敬拜的大地之母——帕恰玛玛。一行人随后合影留念，便踏上了印加古道的征程。
一路沿着山路攀登，加西亚一次次地停下脚步等大家赶上，真不知道她纤细的身板里哪来的如此巨大的能量。途中我们遇上一位每走几步就要停下来大喘一通的英国女孩，她的身边跟着一名当地挑夫。女孩名叫索菲，她和同伴一起来秘鲁旅行，自己决定徒步跋涉印加古道，而其他两位朋友则知难而退，乘全景火车去了马丘比丘。他们约定最后在马丘比丘会合。索菲表达出后悔之意。加西亚转身望着她说：“你知道吗？很多人在走上印加古道的第一个小时就后悔了，但当他们走完全程时，每个人都说这是他们一生所做的最正确的决定。”随后索菲加入了我们的队伍，在大家的鼓励下继续前进。
随后的3天大家走走停停，靠着葡萄糖片和古柯叶增加体力。现在我们才知道，朝圣的意义其实是拷问自己的内心，它绝非普通的观景行程可比。到最后一天所有人都精疲力竭了，但因为接近传说中的古城，大家都起得特别早。谁也没想到，挑夫将生鸡蛋保存了一路，就为了大家在印加古道上终于到达太阳门的这一天早晨有新鲜荷包蛋可吃，这令所有人都感动得要命。最后，经过风餐露宿和艰难跋涉，终于能站在当年印加人膜拜圣城的太阳石台的古祭坛边，怀着和他们一样虔诚的心，向这座曾经失落在历史中的印加古城致以深深敬意。据说，人类七次文明的传说就是从这里开始的。
乘着直升机飞回库斯科，离开时加西亚认真地望着我们说：“下次你们再来，就从马丘比丘走回库斯科，那样就可以和印加人媲美了。”
加西亚 Garcia
秘鲁旅程导游 Peruvian Tour Guide
欢迎大家来到秘鲁，这里有你想象不到的古老文明与让人心心旷神怡的风景，有岩石完美堆砌出的城市，会给你留下最美好的记忆。
Welcome to Peru， a country with ancient civilizations， beautiful sceneries， and cities piled up perfectly with rocks. You will have a most beautiful experience here.
The Seventh Civilization — Peru
The more than 30-hour-flight from Beijing to Lima has taken me across time and space to the other end of the world where generations of civilizations and tales of aliens abound. Lima， the capital of Peru， is a coastal city thrived in the valleys. South American plants， Spain style buildings， a chaotic city buzz， and welcoming Peruvians on our way from the airport to the old downtown of Lima is already telling of its unique charm. Against the discouraging glare of our guide， Garcia， the five of us cramped into a taxi and hit the road. We had our share of local food on street stands， tasted the disgusting ginseng tea that is said to be good for the male function， and hastened to the Monastery of San Francisco to revere at the 70，000 bodies buried inside. On the second day， we started to appreciate why Garcia tried to stop us. She had hoped to tell us to save energy， as we had to travel to our destination by the Inca Trail on foot through the rainforest. We took a flight from Lima to the Amazon before we start the treacherous hike. One can easily get lost in the mysterious South American rainforest， and we had to rely solely on Garcia’s judgement. She may be young， but her knowledge and experience of the forest makes it reassuring to follow her steps.
By dawn， we arrived at our forest lodge， the Refugio Amazonas， among the green and tall Brazil hazel trees. The humid air had left a veil of evaporation on our clothes and the huge banana trees seemed to have brought us to the world of Avatar. Far away from the city， the lodge is supplied with power only 4 hours a day， the only time we could communicate with the outside world with a wifi signal. Through the spacious lobby， lined-up kerosene lamps lead to rooms to the far end. It is a palace in the forest. The rooms have no doors and locks， but a white curtain that separates the inside from the corridor. On the other side of the room is the profuse plantations of the Amazon forest. We dozed off to the chirps of birds and croaks of frogs as our memories drift back to the days when there was no electricity and everyone slept on bamboo beds outside the house to keep cool in summer.
Probably because the air was so refreshing， nobody suffered from morning laziness the next day. We were excited about the trip to the legendary ancient civilization of Machu Picchu. We had some quick photos with the alpacas before departing for the ancient Inca city without realizing the significance of our following journey.
We purchased one last necessity—coca leaves. According to Inca tradition， Garcia and the six of us paid tribute to the Mother of Land for the Incas—Pachamama—with coca leaves. We had a group photo， and then started the journey with our porter， Maria.
As we walked up the mountain trail， Maria stopped every now and then for us to catch up， making me wonder where does her strength come from with her slender body. We encountered an English girl on the way who had to pause every few steps to gather strength. The girl， named Sophie， came to Peru with two friends. She decided to took the Inca Trail with the support of a porter while her two friends chose to take a train to Machu Picchu. When Sophie showed signs of regret， Garcia turned to her， “You know， most people would regret after one hour on the Inca trail， but when they finish the whole trail， they would say it is the rightest decision they have ever made.” With our encouragement， Sophie joined us on the pilgrim. We stopped every now and then in the following three days， taking glucose pills and coca leaves to gather energy. We came to realize that the point of a pilgrim is not sightseeing， but a quest of your heart. We were exhausted on the last day， but we all woke up early with an anticipation to finally see the ancient city. We had another pleasant surprise when our porter miraculous produced some fresh eggs and made us omelet. It was so touching. Finally， after all the hardship， we arrived at the ancient altar by the sacred sun dial and paid our respect to a city that was once lost in history， with a heart as pious as the Incas in their heyday. According to legend， it is from here that the seventh human civilization originated.
When we depart for Cusco by helicopter， Garcia bid us farewell with an earnest look， “Next time you come， you can walk from Machu Picchu to Cusco， so you could match the Incas.”
Tips
往北去，在中美洲的墨西哥，可以探索神秘的玛雅文化。奇琴伊察是古玛雅城市遗址，它穿越千年之久，至今依然展现着玛雅人无与伦比的数学造诣和谜一样的文字以及他们的建筑艺术。在这里你还能用味蕾品味玛雅文化，古老的玛雅人用巧克力来供奉神灵，玛雅巧克力长久以来被人们认为是巧克力中最纯粹且顶级的。