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猪头的身分颇为奇特,它既是“下里巴人”的美食,又是阳春白雪的名菜。在扬州(杭帮菜在四大菜系中属淮扬菜系),猪头是属于“扬州三头”(蟹粉狮子头、拆烩鲢鱼头、扒烧整猪头)之一的名菜,但在杭州,它更多的是以市井美食的身份出现。记得上世纪50年代末期,杭州市场上有大量去骨腌猪头出现,带舌的每500克0.32元,去舌的只要0.28元。吾家贫寒,与左邻右舍抢着去买,煮熟后肥处晶莹如白玉,精处火红如胭脂,咸而香,鲜而美,食此佳味,破屋板床如同新居席梦思,补丁旧衣仿佛轻裘绸衣裳。当时的喜雨台茶楼(今之太子楼所在地),在阔广的、面街的楼梯
Pig’s identity is quite strange, it is both “under the Ribat” of food, but also the spring and autumn dishes. In Yangzhou (Hang Bangcai belongs to the Huaiyang Cuisine in the four major cuisines), the pig is a famous dish belonging to one of the “Yangzhou Three Heads” (Crab Stuffed Lion Head, Chopped Chub Head, Grilled Whole Pig Head), but In Hangzhou, it is more appearing as a marketplace delicacy. I remember the late 50s of last century, Hangzhou market a large number of boneless pig appeared, every tongue with 0.32 yuan per 500 grams to go to the tongue as long as 0.28 yuan. My family is poor, with the neighbors rushing to buy, cooked fat white as jade, refined red rouge, salty and fragrant, fresh and beautiful, eat this good taste, shabby bed as new homes Simmons, patches Old clothes like light fur clothes. At that time Xi Yu Tai restaurant (now the Prince House floor), in the broad, street-level stairs