序言这项研究是由两个问题而引起的。第一个问题是由加利福尼亚大学伯克利分校土木工程教授 Wiegel 提出的,他用标准计算机程序分析了在加利福尼亚 Davenport 附近测量的海浪记录的波浪力和波高的时程曲线(Wiegel 等1957),并且得到图1所示谱密度。对于力谱密度在形状上为什么与波高谱密度那样相似,他很难理解。为进一步探讨两个谱密度之间的相似性,他还分析了 Davenport 实验的其他数据。正如图2所示第十卷数据的曲线所表明的,两结果是相同的。 Preface This study was caused by two problems. The first question was proposed by Wiegel, a professor of civil engineering at the University of California, Berkeley. He used a standard computer program to analyze wave-time and wave-history time histories of waves recorded near Davenport, California (Wiegel et al. 1957). 1 shows the spectral density. It is difficult to understand why the force spectrum density is similar to the height spectrum density in the shape. To further explore the similarities between the two spectral densities, he also analyzed other data from the Davenport experiment. As the curve of the tenth data shown in Figure 2 shows, the two results are the same.