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On July 6， 2016， China Textile Innovation Conference Shishi Forum was held in Shishi， Fujian， with the theme of “exploring innovative gene for textile products”， focusing on the discussion of how to enhance the quality and efficiency of supply， how to activate and release effective demand； how to explore innovative gene for textile products from the nature of the product on the foundation of “ingenuity spirit”， so as to boost reconstruction and upgrade of the textile industry to in the first year of the “the 13th Five-Year Program”.
SUN Ruizhe， vice president of China National Textile and Apparel Council， was the keynote speaker at the conference. He pointed out that mass technology revolution featured with intelligent， green and ubiquitous is profoundly adjusting the industrial division of labor， reshaping the competitive landscape， and changing the balance of power. China should seize the “corner overtaking” historic opportunity to become parallel with the competitors rather than following others， so as to ultimately lead others and achieve the development from large scale to high quality.
On the policy level， innovation-driven development has risen to a national strategy. The CPC Central Committee takes the “five development concepts”as the guide， regards promoting supply-side structural reforms as the main line， and focuses on the “Three Strategies” of increasing varieties， improving quality and creating brands to give macro-policy support to the textile industry innovation practice. On the industry level， the “L”-shaped economic trend provides a good opportunity for the industry to achieve innovation and development， for the decline of growth rate reveals structural and institutional problems accumulated in the previous high-speed growth. While the pressure is released， space for innovation and development is reserved.
How to achieve innovation and development？
Practical foundations have been found for innovation and development
From 2011 to 2015， average annual growth of textile fiber processing volume is of 5.1%. Designed size textile enterprises achieved an average annual growth of main business income of 9.2%， and an average annual increase of total profit of 11.5%. The main economic indicators in the country are in good level in the national industrial system. Textile and apparel exports saw an average annual growth of 6.6%， which ratio in the world increased to 37.4% in 2014 from 34.3% in 2010. But the reality clearly shows that， since 2010， growth rates of the main indicators of the textile industry， i.e.， the total fiber processing volume of China， the main business income， the total profit， the total exports and the industrial added value， etc. has dropped significantly and then stabilized. The incentive reasons for growth rate leveling off is increased pressure on resources and the environment， rising cost of production factors， technological catch traps， but it reflects the problem of structural adjustment and power conversion.
From January to May this year， industrial added value of the national above-designated textile industry （excluding textile part） grew by 6.7% compared with that in the previous period， with the same growth rate as last year； retail sales of garments， shoes， hat and knitting textiles grew by 7% year-on-year， slowing down by 4 percentages from last year. From January to May， China’s total textile and apparel exports were of 101.016 billion US dollars， falling down by 1.97%， of which a total textile exports were 43.325 billion US dollars， going down by 0.03%； and garment total exports were of 57.692 billion US dollars， down by 3.19%. But in May， the textile and apparel exports reached 23.516 billion US dollars， growing by 12.74% month on month， going up by 0.53% year on year， and all achieving positive growth.
As a supportive force in China’s industrial economy， the textile industry occupies a decisive position in the national economy. In 2015， the textile and garment industry has the main business income of 7.0713 trillion yuan， accounting for 6.41% of China’s industrial enterprises above designated size （this year， January to April ac- counted for 6.32%）； total profit of 386 billion yuan， accounting for 6.07% （this year， January to April accounted for 5.74% ）； taxes accounted for 4.30%， investment accounted for 5.32%； textile and apparel exports of 291.1 billion US dollars， accounting for 12.79 percent of exported goods（January to May this year accounting for 12.41%）； clothing， shoes and hats and knitting textiles accounted for 9.46% of the country’s total retail sales of consumer goods above norm （this year January to May accounted for 10.36%）， clothing consumption per capita took up 7.4% of the country’s total consumption expenditure； clothing apparel trading accounted for 32.75% of China’s Internet retail market turnover.
A large industrial scale provides a solid material foundation for innovation and development. In 2015， China’s total fiber processing reached up to 53 million tons， accounting for 54.83 percent of total global fiber processing. Clothing consumption maintained growth in 2015， reaching to 2.080917 trillion yuan， with an increase of 9.63% year on year. In 2015， industry investment in fixed assets reached 1.191321 trillion yuan， increasing by 14.96% year on year （in 2016， from January-May industry investment in fixed asset reached 424.4 billion yuan， with a cumulative increase of 7.5%， accounting for 2.26% of the national total）. The newly opened projects grew fast， with an increase of 18.34% year on year. The industry volume and market scale provided a stage for innovation and development. More and more talented persons jump into the textile industry， and infrastructure and support services for scientific research， production and operation continue to improve. Complete industrial supporting makes innovation have sources and promotion destinations， innovation in one part of the value chain can be applied in another part.
Textile industry can be divided into fashion industry with clothing， home textiles brand as the representatives， strategic emerging industries with high-quality and high-performance fibers， textiles for industrial use， high-end intelligent manufacturing as the representatives， and manufacturing industry throughout the whole textile chain. The industry has a strong industrial relevance and affinity. By combining “intelligence” （Intelligent Manufacturing）， “capital” （capital markets） and“innovation” （cultural innovation）， the textile industry synergies other industrial， which can stimulate superimposed effect， polymerization effect and multiplication effect of innovation. The industry correlation provides a huge space for innovation and development of the industry.
The upcoming released “13th Five-Year Program of Textile Industry Development” puts forward： “textile industry is a traditional pillar industry of China， an important livelihood industry and an industry that creates new international advantages， and an industry wherein science and technology integrate， and clothing consumption and industries develop simultaneously. It has played an important role in beautifying people’s lives， driving related industries and stimulating domestic demand growth， constructing ecological civilization， enhancing cultural self-confidence and promoting social harmony”. The new positioning of the textile industry not only reflects the importance of the industry， but also reflects the necessity and urgency of industry innovation and development.
Innovation and development need to go with rides
To promote innovation and development， it needs to accurately determine the direction of a breakthrough， and to weigh the pros and cons according to market and business conditions. Currently， it requires weighing four relationships for implementing industry innovation.
Relationship between simple innovation and quality revolution
Simple innovation originated from India fo- cuses on meeting consumer demands of middle and low-income groups， promotes minimized consumption of resources， subtracts the non-essential functions and design by means of de-characterization， providing appropriate technologies and low-cost products for low-level consumer groups. The current rise of a national revolution is more concerned with quality， rich functions and enhanced experience， aiming at high-end consumer market. In the process of China’s modernization and urbanization， with the uneven regional development， on the one hand there are a rapid rise and a considerable number of middle and high-income groups； on the other hand there is still a significant proportion of the population in a state of poverty. When facing the problem of whether to choose simple innovation based on social responsibility， or to carry out quality revolution for the consumption upgrade， the cost is always the first element of innovation for companies weigh either for the demand side or the supply front. Changes in demand side are reflected mainly in three aspects
Firstly， consumers pay equal attention to the product concerned and consumption experience. Consumers begin to focus on consumer experience and cultural expression while are concerned about price and quality. It becomes a trend in the market for needs of services， customization and entertainment.
Secondly， the urban market sinks to the urban market. With people’s incomes generally improved， the deepening of the process of urbanization， the rapid rise of high-income groups， the market potential growing begin to sink into the town. Bain & Company forecasts that from 2015 to 2020， China’s online retail market compound annual growth rate will be of 22%， including 15% growth in first-tier cities， 21% in second-tier cities and 26% in the third-tier and below cities. Thirdtier cities and the town’s share will account for about 50%.
Thirdly， the “twenty-eighty economy” and long tail economy coexist. Consumer demand which is dominated by imitation， wave-consumption in the past， changes in a diversified， differentiated， personalized direction. Acceleration of the informatization process， in particular the prosperity of e-commerce， makes the long tail effect of the garment industry having fashion gene more obvious. Studies show that in clothing network sales of China， the brand takes less than 10% shares， whereas the long tail brand takes about 50% shares.
Relationship between open sharing and protection of property right
Technological progress， in particular rapid iteration of information technology， provides a platform for innovation and development for the textile industry. New models， new types of business and new attempts are emerging new constantly such as D2C， C2B， sharing economy， internet celebrity economy etc. Sharing economy is rapidly developed and it has become a global trend for open access. According to statistics from Crowd Companies， and in 2015， the global investment in sharing economy amounted to $ 14.206 billion. Researches made by the State Information Center show that market size of share economy in China in 2015 was about 1.956 trillion yuan， and the average annual growth rate of the next five years will reach to about 40%.
Textile and garment industry has attempted a lot in sharing economy， mainly concentrating in three areas. First， capacity sharing， the main aim is to integrate industry spare capacity， and achieves sharing of equipment， research facilities and other resources， the representative companies including Amoy factory， NANJIDS.COM； second， product sharing， taking clothing rental and textile clothing recycling as the main contents， the representative enterprises are LE TOTE， MAGIC CLOSET； third， creativity sharing， taking the crowdsourcing in areas such as creative design， product development etc. as the main content， the representative companies including Threadless. Industry development of the sharing economy helps to make full use of existing resources to resolve excess capacity； helps to focus on the development of their own advantages and to promote the industry division； and contributes to the integration resources for creation to enhance innovation capability； and helps to reduce repeated construction and to promote green environmental protection. However， open access especially the open access to creative designs also brings about challenges for intellectual property protection.
Relationship between artificial intelligence and labor management
Affected by the technological revolution， capital costs， raw material prices， energy prices， environmental policy and other factors， the overall cost gap of global textile manufacturing shrinks day by day and trends to flattening， and supply appears a decentralization trend. The trend of intelligent manufacturing and machine generation becomes more apparent. China has become the largest industrial robot applications market since 2013 with sales of 75，000 units in 2015， going up by 36.6% year on year and accounting for 30% in the world. The robot density increases from 11 units / million persons five years ago to 36 units / million persons. According to the survey conducted by China National Network Information Center （CNNIC）， in 2015， manufacturing enterprises that have adopted or plan to adopt automated manufacturing and industrial robots account for19.9% and 11.0% respectively.
With the rapid development of information technology， artificial intelligence centering algorithm starts to be applied and is infiltrated to all aspects of the textile industry chain， i.e.， design， development， production， marketing， service， etc. for example， in the 2016 New York metropolitan fashion celebration， IBM cognitive robot assisted in designing gifts. Technologies taking big data， cloud computing as the representatives is becoming an important source of innovation of the industry. In present， there is another trend， i.e.， to innovate and make decisions by means of labor management in key areas that need background knowledge and culture taste. In the textile and garment industry featured with cultural creativity， it still needs to weigh the pros and cons whether innovation relies more on artificial intelligence or labor management.
Relationship between walled garden and ecological jungle
In the internet economy， “walled garden”refers to the environment that sets restrictions to user’s access contents and services， which is a limited innovative ecosystem. The industry vertical application platform represented by mogujie， meilishuo， the internet celebrity economy with communication and net cash flow formed by content-sharing， emotional interaction and scene establishment with the help of social platform are all preventatives of walled garden. The advantages of walled garden lie in its professionalism and well-targeted property， and its drawback is that the content is not rich. It needs to weigh the pros and cons whether industries innovation is to create a walled garden or to construct an ecological jungle. Industry innovation and development should first rely on talents to drive innovation， to build a multi-level talent training system， to accelerate the construction of groups of scientific and technological innovation leading talents and highly skilled personnel， training frontline innovative talents and young scientific and technological talents， promoting the spirit of entrepreneurship and craftsmen. Second， we must improve the innovation system， specifically， to build four systems： first， the industrial technology innovation and strategic alliances of textile industry chain downstream， production and application collaborative innovation； second， the industry intelligent production system featuring to achieve synergy R&D， distributed production， fine processing and flexible manufacturing； third， the service system configuration for accelerating scientific and technological achievements capitalization and industrialization and for achieving free flow of innovative products and optimized services， such as R&D， technical consulting， innovation incubators， intellectual property services， the third party inspection and detection etc.； Fourth， the standard system for improving international level of independent technical standards of China’s textile and garment industry. For the third point， we must grasp the key to innovation. Technological innovation is the key to innovation and development and is the revolutionary forces and powerful lever on the highest sense， determining direction of development of product innovation， process innovation， system innovation， management innovation， model innovation， market innovation and cultural innovation. The key point of technological innovation is to make breakthrough in three main areas- intelligent manufacturing， textile materials and green manufacturing.
We need to be good at calculating addition and subtraction， handling relationships between current and long-term， intensity and pace， and principle and secondary contradictions in the supply-side reform.
SUN Ruizhe， vice president of China National Textile and Apparel Council， was the keynote speaker at the conference. He pointed out that mass technology revolution featured with intelligent， green and ubiquitous is profoundly adjusting the industrial division of labor， reshaping the competitive landscape， and changing the balance of power. China should seize the “corner overtaking” historic opportunity to become parallel with the competitors rather than following others， so as to ultimately lead others and achieve the development from large scale to high quality.
On the policy level， innovation-driven development has risen to a national strategy. The CPC Central Committee takes the “five development concepts”as the guide， regards promoting supply-side structural reforms as the main line， and focuses on the “Three Strategies” of increasing varieties， improving quality and creating brands to give macro-policy support to the textile industry innovation practice. On the industry level， the “L”-shaped economic trend provides a good opportunity for the industry to achieve innovation and development， for the decline of growth rate reveals structural and institutional problems accumulated in the previous high-speed growth. While the pressure is released， space for innovation and development is reserved.
How to achieve innovation and development？
Practical foundations have been found for innovation and development
From 2011 to 2015， average annual growth of textile fiber processing volume is of 5.1%. Designed size textile enterprises achieved an average annual growth of main business income of 9.2%， and an average annual increase of total profit of 11.5%. The main economic indicators in the country are in good level in the national industrial system. Textile and apparel exports saw an average annual growth of 6.6%， which ratio in the world increased to 37.4% in 2014 from 34.3% in 2010. But the reality clearly shows that， since 2010， growth rates of the main indicators of the textile industry， i.e.， the total fiber processing volume of China， the main business income， the total profit， the total exports and the industrial added value， etc. has dropped significantly and then stabilized. The incentive reasons for growth rate leveling off is increased pressure on resources and the environment， rising cost of production factors， technological catch traps， but it reflects the problem of structural adjustment and power conversion.
From January to May this year， industrial added value of the national above-designated textile industry （excluding textile part） grew by 6.7% compared with that in the previous period， with the same growth rate as last year； retail sales of garments， shoes， hat and knitting textiles grew by 7% year-on-year， slowing down by 4 percentages from last year. From January to May， China’s total textile and apparel exports were of 101.016 billion US dollars， falling down by 1.97%， of which a total textile exports were 43.325 billion US dollars， going down by 0.03%； and garment total exports were of 57.692 billion US dollars， down by 3.19%. But in May， the textile and apparel exports reached 23.516 billion US dollars， growing by 12.74% month on month， going up by 0.53% year on year， and all achieving positive growth.
As a supportive force in China’s industrial economy， the textile industry occupies a decisive position in the national economy. In 2015， the textile and garment industry has the main business income of 7.0713 trillion yuan， accounting for 6.41% of China’s industrial enterprises above designated size （this year， January to April ac- counted for 6.32%）； total profit of 386 billion yuan， accounting for 6.07% （this year， January to April accounted for 5.74% ）； taxes accounted for 4.30%， investment accounted for 5.32%； textile and apparel exports of 291.1 billion US dollars， accounting for 12.79 percent of exported goods（January to May this year accounting for 12.41%）； clothing， shoes and hats and knitting textiles accounted for 9.46% of the country’s total retail sales of consumer goods above norm （this year January to May accounted for 10.36%）， clothing consumption per capita took up 7.4% of the country’s total consumption expenditure； clothing apparel trading accounted for 32.75% of China’s Internet retail market turnover.
A large industrial scale provides a solid material foundation for innovation and development. In 2015， China’s total fiber processing reached up to 53 million tons， accounting for 54.83 percent of total global fiber processing. Clothing consumption maintained growth in 2015， reaching to 2.080917 trillion yuan， with an increase of 9.63% year on year. In 2015， industry investment in fixed assets reached 1.191321 trillion yuan， increasing by 14.96% year on year （in 2016， from January-May industry investment in fixed asset reached 424.4 billion yuan， with a cumulative increase of 7.5%， accounting for 2.26% of the national total）. The newly opened projects grew fast， with an increase of 18.34% year on year. The industry volume and market scale provided a stage for innovation and development. More and more talented persons jump into the textile industry， and infrastructure and support services for scientific research， production and operation continue to improve. Complete industrial supporting makes innovation have sources and promotion destinations， innovation in one part of the value chain can be applied in another part.
Textile industry can be divided into fashion industry with clothing， home textiles brand as the representatives， strategic emerging industries with high-quality and high-performance fibers， textiles for industrial use， high-end intelligent manufacturing as the representatives， and manufacturing industry throughout the whole textile chain. The industry has a strong industrial relevance and affinity. By combining “intelligence” （Intelligent Manufacturing）， “capital” （capital markets） and“innovation” （cultural innovation）， the textile industry synergies other industrial， which can stimulate superimposed effect， polymerization effect and multiplication effect of innovation. The industry correlation provides a huge space for innovation and development of the industry.
The upcoming released “13th Five-Year Program of Textile Industry Development” puts forward： “textile industry is a traditional pillar industry of China， an important livelihood industry and an industry that creates new international advantages， and an industry wherein science and technology integrate， and clothing consumption and industries develop simultaneously. It has played an important role in beautifying people’s lives， driving related industries and stimulating domestic demand growth， constructing ecological civilization， enhancing cultural self-confidence and promoting social harmony”. The new positioning of the textile industry not only reflects the importance of the industry， but also reflects the necessity and urgency of industry innovation and development.
Innovation and development need to go with rides
To promote innovation and development， it needs to accurately determine the direction of a breakthrough， and to weigh the pros and cons according to market and business conditions. Currently， it requires weighing four relationships for implementing industry innovation.
Relationship between simple innovation and quality revolution
Simple innovation originated from India fo- cuses on meeting consumer demands of middle and low-income groups， promotes minimized consumption of resources， subtracts the non-essential functions and design by means of de-characterization， providing appropriate technologies and low-cost products for low-level consumer groups. The current rise of a national revolution is more concerned with quality， rich functions and enhanced experience， aiming at high-end consumer market. In the process of China’s modernization and urbanization， with the uneven regional development， on the one hand there are a rapid rise and a considerable number of middle and high-income groups； on the other hand there is still a significant proportion of the population in a state of poverty. When facing the problem of whether to choose simple innovation based on social responsibility， or to carry out quality revolution for the consumption upgrade， the cost is always the first element of innovation for companies weigh either for the demand side or the supply front. Changes in demand side are reflected mainly in three aspects
Firstly， consumers pay equal attention to the product concerned and consumption experience. Consumers begin to focus on consumer experience and cultural expression while are concerned about price and quality. It becomes a trend in the market for needs of services， customization and entertainment.
Secondly， the urban market sinks to the urban market. With people’s incomes generally improved， the deepening of the process of urbanization， the rapid rise of high-income groups， the market potential growing begin to sink into the town. Bain & Company forecasts that from 2015 to 2020， China’s online retail market compound annual growth rate will be of 22%， including 15% growth in first-tier cities， 21% in second-tier cities and 26% in the third-tier and below cities. Thirdtier cities and the town’s share will account for about 50%.
Thirdly， the “twenty-eighty economy” and long tail economy coexist. Consumer demand which is dominated by imitation， wave-consumption in the past， changes in a diversified， differentiated， personalized direction. Acceleration of the informatization process， in particular the prosperity of e-commerce， makes the long tail effect of the garment industry having fashion gene more obvious. Studies show that in clothing network sales of China， the brand takes less than 10% shares， whereas the long tail brand takes about 50% shares.
Relationship between open sharing and protection of property right
Technological progress， in particular rapid iteration of information technology， provides a platform for innovation and development for the textile industry. New models， new types of business and new attempts are emerging new constantly such as D2C， C2B， sharing economy， internet celebrity economy etc. Sharing economy is rapidly developed and it has become a global trend for open access. According to statistics from Crowd Companies， and in 2015， the global investment in sharing economy amounted to $ 14.206 billion. Researches made by the State Information Center show that market size of share economy in China in 2015 was about 1.956 trillion yuan， and the average annual growth rate of the next five years will reach to about 40%.
Textile and garment industry has attempted a lot in sharing economy， mainly concentrating in three areas. First， capacity sharing， the main aim is to integrate industry spare capacity， and achieves sharing of equipment， research facilities and other resources， the representative companies including Amoy factory， NANJIDS.COM； second， product sharing， taking clothing rental and textile clothing recycling as the main contents， the representative enterprises are LE TOTE， MAGIC CLOSET； third， creativity sharing， taking the crowdsourcing in areas such as creative design， product development etc. as the main content， the representative companies including Threadless. Industry development of the sharing economy helps to make full use of existing resources to resolve excess capacity； helps to focus on the development of their own advantages and to promote the industry division； and contributes to the integration resources for creation to enhance innovation capability； and helps to reduce repeated construction and to promote green environmental protection. However， open access especially the open access to creative designs also brings about challenges for intellectual property protection.
Relationship between artificial intelligence and labor management
Affected by the technological revolution， capital costs， raw material prices， energy prices， environmental policy and other factors， the overall cost gap of global textile manufacturing shrinks day by day and trends to flattening， and supply appears a decentralization trend. The trend of intelligent manufacturing and machine generation becomes more apparent. China has become the largest industrial robot applications market since 2013 with sales of 75，000 units in 2015， going up by 36.6% year on year and accounting for 30% in the world. The robot density increases from 11 units / million persons five years ago to 36 units / million persons. According to the survey conducted by China National Network Information Center （CNNIC）， in 2015， manufacturing enterprises that have adopted or plan to adopt automated manufacturing and industrial robots account for19.9% and 11.0% respectively.
With the rapid development of information technology， artificial intelligence centering algorithm starts to be applied and is infiltrated to all aspects of the textile industry chain， i.e.， design， development， production， marketing， service， etc. for example， in the 2016 New York metropolitan fashion celebration， IBM cognitive robot assisted in designing gifts. Technologies taking big data， cloud computing as the representatives is becoming an important source of innovation of the industry. In present， there is another trend， i.e.， to innovate and make decisions by means of labor management in key areas that need background knowledge and culture taste. In the textile and garment industry featured with cultural creativity， it still needs to weigh the pros and cons whether innovation relies more on artificial intelligence or labor management.
Relationship between walled garden and ecological jungle
In the internet economy， “walled garden”refers to the environment that sets restrictions to user’s access contents and services， which is a limited innovative ecosystem. The industry vertical application platform represented by mogujie， meilishuo， the internet celebrity economy with communication and net cash flow formed by content-sharing， emotional interaction and scene establishment with the help of social platform are all preventatives of walled garden. The advantages of walled garden lie in its professionalism and well-targeted property， and its drawback is that the content is not rich. It needs to weigh the pros and cons whether industries innovation is to create a walled garden or to construct an ecological jungle. Industry innovation and development should first rely on talents to drive innovation， to build a multi-level talent training system， to accelerate the construction of groups of scientific and technological innovation leading talents and highly skilled personnel， training frontline innovative talents and young scientific and technological talents， promoting the spirit of entrepreneurship and craftsmen. Second， we must improve the innovation system， specifically， to build four systems： first， the industrial technology innovation and strategic alliances of textile industry chain downstream， production and application collaborative innovation； second， the industry intelligent production system featuring to achieve synergy R&D， distributed production， fine processing and flexible manufacturing； third， the service system configuration for accelerating scientific and technological achievements capitalization and industrialization and for achieving free flow of innovative products and optimized services， such as R&D， technical consulting， innovation incubators， intellectual property services， the third party inspection and detection etc.； Fourth， the standard system for improving international level of independent technical standards of China’s textile and garment industry. For the third point， we must grasp the key to innovation. Technological innovation is the key to innovation and development and is the revolutionary forces and powerful lever on the highest sense， determining direction of development of product innovation， process innovation， system innovation， management innovation， model innovation， market innovation and cultural innovation. The key point of technological innovation is to make breakthrough in three main areas- intelligent manufacturing， textile materials and green manufacturing.
We need to be good at calculating addition and subtraction， handling relationships between current and long-term， intensity and pace， and principle and secondary contradictions in the supply-side reform.