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一、前言 在风的直接作用下产生的风浪,由于复杂的生成和发展条件,使其具有外观上的不规则性和随机性,内在的非线性性。早在五十年代初期,人们就针对风浪的随机性,运用统计方法,对风浪的统计性质进行了分析研究。就其外观而言,这种统计性质,主要由波面纵座标、波要素等的概率分布来描述,在把风浪作为一线性流体动力学模式来描述时,获得波面纵座标遵循正态分布律。 关于深水波高分布,五十年代初期(1950)、(1952)、Putz(1952)等,用各自获得的立体照相和波浪仪记录资料,经过统计分析都得出了经验分布。Longuet-Higgins(1952)将Rice关于随机噪声的数学分析结果运用于海浪,并在假定波谱包含单一窄频带和波能是由大量具有随机位相的正弦波分量所提供的条件下,从理论上得到波高遵循Rayleigh分布的结论。
First, the preface The wind and waves generated under the direct effect of the wind, due to the complicated conditions of generation and development, make it have the appearance of irregularity and randomness, and inherent non-linearity. As early as the early 1950s, people conducted statistical analysis of the statistical nature of storms in view of the stochastic nature of storms. In terms of its appearance, this statistical property is mainly described by the probability distribution of the wave length ordinate and the wave elements, etc. When the wave is described as a linear hydrodynamic model, the wave ordinate is obtained following the normal distribution law. With regard to the distribution of wave height in the deep water, early 1950s (1951), Putz (1952) and so on, the recorded data were obtained by the stereo photography and the wave instruments each obtained, and the empirical distribution was obtained through statistical analysis. Longuet-Higgins (1952) applied Rice’s mathematical analysis of stochastic noise to waves and, theoretically, provided that the spectrum contains a single narrow band and the wave energy is provided by a large number of sinusoidal components with random phases Wave height follows Rayleigh distribution.