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前几天,远在青海的多罗给我打来电话,说他已经结束在青海湖的云游,准备徒步到五台山朝拜。听到这个消息的瞬间,我的脑海里立刻浮现出3年前的那个夏天,我与多罗结伴,在青海阿尼玛卿山(康巴藏区的神山之一,位于青海果洛藏族自治州内,主峰玛卿岗日海拔6282米)徒步旅行的那7个日日夜夜。那个下午,在阿尼玛卿山北麓的哈隆河畔,我遇到了多罗,这个比我小不足两个月的喇嘛,家在四川道孚,曾就读于某佛学院,能说较为流利的普通话,长长的红色藏袍裹身,一双沾满污泥的胶鞋。
A few days ago, Dole, far away in Qinghai, called me and said he had finished his journey through Qinghai Lake and was ready to go hiking on Mount Wutai. The moment I heard this news, my mind immediately emerged three years ago that summer, I and Dolo together, in Qinghai Animaqing Hill (Kham Tibetan area of one of the mountains, located in Qinghai Guoluo Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture Within the main peak Ma Qinggang 6282 meters above sea level) hiking that seven days and nights. That afternoon, beside the Haron River at the northern foot of the Animaqing Mountains, I met Doral, a Lama who was less than two months younger than me. She studied at a Buddhist institute in Daofu, Sichuan, and was fluent Mandarin, a long red Tibetan robe wrap, a pair of plastic shoes covered with sludge.