《饕餮中国》外人初到江南,往往认为当地菜太过甜腻,但是实际上,江南菜变甜的历史并不久远。比如在元末明初的苏州饮食专著《易牙遗意》中共记载了49种菜肴制作方法,明确提到用盐的达33种,约占67.35%,用糖的只有7种,仅占14.29%,可见,当时用盐进行调味的比例远远大于用糖。那么江南菜又是如何从咸变甜的呢?其实这与气候、地理没有什么关系,而在于糖的普及。 “Gluttony China” When an outsider first arrives in Jiangnan, he often thinks that the local cuisine is too sweet, but in fact, the history of Jiangnan cuisine sweating is not long ago. For example, in the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties of Suzhou diet monograph “easy tooth” recorded a total of 49 kinds of dishes production methods, made it clear that up to 33 kinds of salt, accounting for 67.35%, with only 7 kinds of sugar, accounting for only 14.29 %, We can see that the proportion of seasoning with salt is far greater than the use of sugar. So how is Jiangnan cuisine sweetened from salty? In fact, this climate and geography have nothing to do, but rather the popularity of sugar.