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用实验室资料研究了变浅引起的波高和周期联合分布的变化。资料取自两种海滩(斜坡为1:40和1:20),实验资料与Longuet-Higgins(1983)提出的波高和周期的理论分布做了比较,对于d/L>0.1的非破碎波,观测和预报所得的分布形状吻合相当好。但由Longnet-Higgins给出的预报的联合分布与观测的分布有位移,因此,提出了对观测位移的一种参数化法。另外还给出了谱宽度参数随浅水区域变化的一种参数化法。
Laboratory data were used to study the changes in wave height and periodical distribution caused by shallowing. The data are taken from two types of beaches (slopes 1:40 and 1:20). The experimental data are compared with the theoretical distributions of wave height and period proposed by Longuet-Higgins (1983). For non-crushing with d / L> 0.1 Waves, observations and forecasts obtained by the distribution of shape is quite good. However, the joint distribution of the forecast given by Longnet-Higgins has a displacement with the distribution of the observations. Therefore, a parametric method of observing displacements is proposed. In addition, a parametric method of changing spectral width parameters with shallow water regions is also given.