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打了雀嘴回来，最经典的吃法是：连汤带水装盘来个隔水清炖，称“炖雀”。
每当退潮时节，浙南近海小渔村的妇女们三五成群地来到海岸边，熟练地爬上岩礁，拿出随身携带的特制工具，开始在岩石上敲打起来。离得近的几位原先还大声聊上几句，因为潮音，慢慢就各自闭了嘴。她们一下一下不停地敲打着，随着身后潮汐的起落，晨昏里的时间就此慢慢消逝，收获的愉悦渐渐漫上了脸庞……
地处温州之南的苍南县拥有168.8公里黄金海岸线，沿途海岛星罗，海岸悠长，礁岩嶙峋，潮温适宜，阳光充沛，海洋生物极为丰富，雀嘴就是其中的一种。
长相奇丑却味道鲜美
雀嘴，学名藤壶，浙南一带也叫雀咀、曲嘴。明弘治时《温州府志》载：“，其大者名为老婆牙，壳丛生如蜂房，肉含红膏，一名头，以其簇生，故名。”民国时《平阳县志·食货志》载：“藤壶，俗名，大者曰虎，附着海滨岩石及蟹類贝类壳上，渔人去壳加盐食之，曰曲嘴。”《浙江省岱山县药物志》中称雀嘴为“白脊藤壶”，别名“锉”“锉壳”，“常成群附着于海岸岩石或其他海产动物体外。固壳近于圆筒状的圆锥形，壳口大，壳板厚，壳口上面有能活动的左右两对壳板。”《岱山县志》则谓之为“触”。《嘉靖太平县志·物产》中记载温岭有海洋生物为“”，“一名老婆牙，生于岩或簄竹上”，台州一带则称“冲”或“蛐”，或“蛩”（音），1992年出版、叶大兵编著的《温州民俗》中提到瑞安四珍，包括：“龟脚、红蛋曲、神眼、雪鳗”四种水产，这里的“红蛋曲”即雀嘴：“外壳近于圆筒形，内壳由三角形壳片合成，壳色带红紫，常成簇密集附着于海岛岩礁间低潮线附近岩石上，每年三月和六七月采挖，入汤烫过，敲去外壳，再加香料蒸熟，为佐餐佳肴。”其实，这些文献资料里所指的都是雀嘴，盖为浙江各地方言口音上各有差别。
雀嘴，是生长在浙南沿海潮间带礁岩或物体上行固着状的一种海生节肢动物，外形上确实有点像麻雀嘴，并且大多是一簇簇、一片片密集地生长在一起，大小不等，个体饱满，外壳由复杂的石灰质组成，呈圆锥形，表面粗糙有裂纹，上端开口呈灰白色，像极了一座座微缩版的“火山”。这小小的“火山’之内有4个活动壳盖，由肌肉牵动开合，在潮水涨没时，壳盖就会徐徐张开，许多呈羽状的蔓足从里面伸出，开始捕食海里的浮游生物;在潮水下退后，壳盖就会慢慢紧闭，储蓄必备的水分，御防其他天敌侵袭。
虽然，这种奇丑无比的海产鲜有人知，不过，它的鲜美却能征服每一位食客。宋人罗大经的《鹤林玉露》记载了一则佚事，称南宋两位著名的文学家周必大、洪迈曾经侍宴，当宋孝宗问到家乡特产时，洪迈是鄱阳（今江西鄱阳）人，回答道：“沙地马蹄鳖，雪天牛尾狸。”周必大为庐陵（今江西吉安）人，则对曰：“金柑玉版笋，银杏水晶葱。”这时，孝宗顺口问身边的侍从，侍从是浙江人，脱口而出对答道：“螺头新妇臂，龟脚老婆牙”，此四者皆海鲜也，因答得形象生动，引得“上为之一笑”。浙江人好海鲜，对家乡特产如数家珍，由此可见一斑。
据说，“螺头”指的是辣螺，以肉鲜肥微辣有清香而著称;“新妇臂”，则指的是蛏子的白腻润泽（后来也有人说指的是吹沙鱼）;“龟脚”，即石蜐，苍南海边人常吃的观音手，也称“龟足”，有些地方也称“佛手螺”，李时珍在《本草纲目》记载“石蜐生东南海中石上。蚌蛤之属。形如龟脚，亦有爪状，壳如蟹螯”，长在海边岩石临水缝隙处，密集成簇状生长，青苔色的爪状石灰质外壳，呈倒三角形侧扁，柄部外裹一层似蛇皮的黄褐色粗糙表皮，内藏白净嫩肉，鲜美至极，看外形似乌龟的爪子，故名。此物极为鲜美，但首次吃者很难下嘴，因此惹出很多笑话。在苍南当地，有人戏称此物名为“站起来吃”（闽南话发音），就是说吃的时候要将龟足硬壳部分立起来，象嗑瓜子一样把壳咬开，再把后部裹皮剥掉，就可以吃了。都说有些玩意有多丑就有多美味，龟足和“老婆牙”都是形丑而味美，实为海味中之奇葩。
家常菜变成“奢侈品”
旧时，打雀嘴有两种操作方式：一种用雀锹铲，一种用铁榔头敲。每逢大水潮时，等潮水退落，妇女们成群结队，手提木桶，足穿草鞋，带着榔头来到海边岩头上敲雀嘴。把雀壳敲碎，再把雀肉拾进碗内，等碗满了就倒入桶中。用榔头敲速度慢，数量少，仅够供自己家里做菜肴食用，因此很少出售。敲到一两碗雀嘴，拿回家清水落镬一爨（cuàn），即可佐酒下饭招待客人。
打雀嘴虽然看起来不需要更多的技巧，其实是较为惊险的活——最重要的是要躲避海浪的袭击，以及小心手脚被雀嘴锋利的边缘刮伤。另外，由于市场需求大而过度地敲食，导致如今雀嘴资源慢慢枯竭，个体也变得越来越小。因此，人们不得不将目光投向那些个大肉肥却生长在临潮、临崖上的雀嘴，而这些地方又往往非常陡峭、险峻，不仅攀爬困难，而且恶浪无常，也就骤增了敲雀嘴的不安全系数。据沿海一带老人们回忆：因为海边岩石长期被潮水浸没，岩面往往非常溜滑，人们要穿草鞋才便于行走，一不小心就有可能葬身海底。
打了雀嘴回来，最经典的吃法是：连汤带水装盘来个隔水清炖，称“炖雀”。除撒一丁点盐外，无需任何调料，以保持它的原汁原味。炖熟揭锅，一层富含蛋白质的似蛋花又像豆腐花的物质被蒸出来，色泽白嫩、肉质细腻——原来那小小的“火山”之下，蕴含着那样鲜美无比的雀肉，此时散发出来的是雀嘴特有的鲜香，如龙卷风般袭过口腔。将鸡蛋打散，加入少许黄酒，放入洗净的雀嘴清蒸，雀嘴的鲜甜浸润了黄酒的醇和，足以令人食欲大动。另外，雀嘴也可腌制，称为“醉雀”，可生醉和熟醉：将新鲜的生雀嘴洗净后加黄酒、白糖和盐，密封保存后一周左右即可食用;若换成半熟雀嘴，以同样加工方法即为熟醉。生醉比熟醉保存得更久，风味也更原始更浓郁。
以前，渔民们敲到大量的雀嘴后，因为无法保鲜，又一时吃不完，通常就加盐晒成“雀干”，即《平阳渔业志》所谓的“重盐腌之，能久藏”。雀干与其新鲜时的风味自然不可同日而语，但可用于给其他菜肴提鲜，做羹做汤时放几粒进去，纯天然的那种鲜味是味精、鸡精等调味品无法媲美的。记得那时家家都备有雀干，以应不时之需。取一小把雀干和家乡特有的酸笋一起烧，即成一道美味的海鲜汤，既酸爽又鲜美，很是下饭。 隨着雀嘴的产量逐年减少，渔民们现在好多时候根本就是乘兴而去败兴而归，敲不到几粒雀嘴。等到连鲜吃都已不可求，那么小时候所熟知的“雀干”就成了一种封存于记忆里的奢侈品。有时，在岁月深处轻轻触动那小小的“火山口”，记忆的味蕾就被深深触动，那一股久违的鲜美便瞬间喷涌而出……
（本文图片来自视觉中国）
Barnacles： Delicacy in Southern Zhejiang
By Chen Hanli
Cangnan， a county in southern Zhejiang， boasts a 168.6-km-long coastline where sea life thrives. Of the seafood that village women pick up from rocks and beaches is barnacles. Barnacles are known in Cangnan as “sparrow’s beak”. The name describes barnacles most vividly. These arthropod creatures attach to rocks and they look ugly but they are a delicacy local people love.
One way to get barnacles off rocks is to use a hammer. In the past， village women came to get barnacles when tides were at a low ebb. They smashed the barnacle shell with the hammer and picked up the body and threw it into a bowl. In most cases， no gatherer would hammer barnacles more than necessary. After all， barnacles lived nearby and they could get them easily. A bowlful of barnacles was a good enough dish to please visitors or serve as a dish to go with wine drinking at home.
Though taking barnacles looks like an easy job， a gatherer must be very careful about tides that may come up at any moment. A gatherer must exercise caution： barnacles have sharp edges that can cut deeply. Nowadays， barnacles are not so easy to harvest in Cangnan after the nearest and easiest barnacle colonies are explored thoroughly. One needs to get to some dangerous rocks to get barnacles that look good and big. These rocks are hard to negotiate and sometimes waves come up all of a sudden. In the past， to walk steadily and safely on slippery rocks， a gatherer needed to wear a pair of straw-woven shoes： cheap and skidproof. Some old people still remember tragic deaths of some barnacle gatherers in the past.
The most typical way to cook barnacles is to put them into a bowl and pour water into the bowl. The bowl is then placed into water in a wok. Stewing looks like steaming， but it is not steaming. A pinch of salt is the only seasoning needed for the dish. It offers the best authentic appeal of barnacles. Even the gravy in the bowl is most delicious. Gourmets say that the ecstasy explodes like a tornado inside the mouth.
Barnacles can also be steamed with well beaten eggs with a touch of rice wine. Some people also enjoy wine-pickled barnacles. Raw barnacles can be directly pickled with rice wine， sugar and salt before they are sealed off and cured for a week. Barnacles can also be steamed half-done and then pickled with rice wine， sugar and salt. Barnacles， if pickled raw， offer a very strong flavor.
This way of pickling is somewhat intricate and is for gourmets， however. In cooking barnacles at home， villagers are straightforward and no-nonsense. In their hands， barnacles are mixed with a heavy dose of salt directly and then dried in sunlight. Dehydrated pickled barnacles can be stored for a long time. They are like a seasoning for， say， a bowl of dried barnacles and sour bamboo shoots soup.
Regrettably， as barnacles are overly looted from rocks and beaches in Cangnan， gatherers sometimes can only catch a disappointingly small quantity of barnacles. Some people even worry that when barnacles are no longer available meaningfully in Cangnan， the delicacy would only exist in memory and in books.
每当退潮时节，浙南近海小渔村的妇女们三五成群地来到海岸边，熟练地爬上岩礁，拿出随身携带的特制工具，开始在岩石上敲打起来。离得近的几位原先还大声聊上几句，因为潮音，慢慢就各自闭了嘴。她们一下一下不停地敲打着，随着身后潮汐的起落，晨昏里的时间就此慢慢消逝，收获的愉悦渐渐漫上了脸庞……
地处温州之南的苍南县拥有168.8公里黄金海岸线，沿途海岛星罗，海岸悠长，礁岩嶙峋，潮温适宜，阳光充沛，海洋生物极为丰富，雀嘴就是其中的一种。
长相奇丑却味道鲜美
雀嘴，学名藤壶，浙南一带也叫雀咀、曲嘴。明弘治时《温州府志》载：“，其大者名为老婆牙，壳丛生如蜂房，肉含红膏，一名头，以其簇生，故名。”民国时《平阳县志·食货志》载：“藤壶，俗名，大者曰虎，附着海滨岩石及蟹類贝类壳上，渔人去壳加盐食之，曰曲嘴。”《浙江省岱山县药物志》中称雀嘴为“白脊藤壶”，别名“锉”“锉壳”，“常成群附着于海岸岩石或其他海产动物体外。固壳近于圆筒状的圆锥形，壳口大，壳板厚，壳口上面有能活动的左右两对壳板。”《岱山县志》则谓之为“触”。《嘉靖太平县志·物产》中记载温岭有海洋生物为“”，“一名老婆牙，生于岩或簄竹上”，台州一带则称“冲”或“蛐”，或“蛩”（音），1992年出版、叶大兵编著的《温州民俗》中提到瑞安四珍，包括：“龟脚、红蛋曲、神眼、雪鳗”四种水产，这里的“红蛋曲”即雀嘴：“外壳近于圆筒形，内壳由三角形壳片合成，壳色带红紫，常成簇密集附着于海岛岩礁间低潮线附近岩石上，每年三月和六七月采挖，入汤烫过，敲去外壳，再加香料蒸熟，为佐餐佳肴。”其实，这些文献资料里所指的都是雀嘴，盖为浙江各地方言口音上各有差别。
雀嘴，是生长在浙南沿海潮间带礁岩或物体上行固着状的一种海生节肢动物，外形上确实有点像麻雀嘴，并且大多是一簇簇、一片片密集地生长在一起，大小不等，个体饱满，外壳由复杂的石灰质组成，呈圆锥形，表面粗糙有裂纹，上端开口呈灰白色，像极了一座座微缩版的“火山”。这小小的“火山’之内有4个活动壳盖，由肌肉牵动开合，在潮水涨没时，壳盖就会徐徐张开，许多呈羽状的蔓足从里面伸出，开始捕食海里的浮游生物;在潮水下退后，壳盖就会慢慢紧闭，储蓄必备的水分，御防其他天敌侵袭。
虽然，这种奇丑无比的海产鲜有人知，不过，它的鲜美却能征服每一位食客。宋人罗大经的《鹤林玉露》记载了一则佚事，称南宋两位著名的文学家周必大、洪迈曾经侍宴，当宋孝宗问到家乡特产时，洪迈是鄱阳（今江西鄱阳）人，回答道：“沙地马蹄鳖，雪天牛尾狸。”周必大为庐陵（今江西吉安）人，则对曰：“金柑玉版笋，银杏水晶葱。”这时，孝宗顺口问身边的侍从，侍从是浙江人，脱口而出对答道：“螺头新妇臂，龟脚老婆牙”，此四者皆海鲜也，因答得形象生动，引得“上为之一笑”。浙江人好海鲜，对家乡特产如数家珍，由此可见一斑。
据说，“螺头”指的是辣螺，以肉鲜肥微辣有清香而著称;“新妇臂”，则指的是蛏子的白腻润泽（后来也有人说指的是吹沙鱼）;“龟脚”，即石蜐，苍南海边人常吃的观音手，也称“龟足”，有些地方也称“佛手螺”，李时珍在《本草纲目》记载“石蜐生东南海中石上。蚌蛤之属。形如龟脚，亦有爪状，壳如蟹螯”，长在海边岩石临水缝隙处，密集成簇状生长，青苔色的爪状石灰质外壳，呈倒三角形侧扁，柄部外裹一层似蛇皮的黄褐色粗糙表皮，内藏白净嫩肉，鲜美至极，看外形似乌龟的爪子，故名。此物极为鲜美，但首次吃者很难下嘴，因此惹出很多笑话。在苍南当地，有人戏称此物名为“站起来吃”（闽南话发音），就是说吃的时候要将龟足硬壳部分立起来，象嗑瓜子一样把壳咬开，再把后部裹皮剥掉，就可以吃了。都说有些玩意有多丑就有多美味，龟足和“老婆牙”都是形丑而味美，实为海味中之奇葩。
家常菜变成“奢侈品”
旧时，打雀嘴有两种操作方式：一种用雀锹铲，一种用铁榔头敲。每逢大水潮时，等潮水退落，妇女们成群结队，手提木桶，足穿草鞋，带着榔头来到海边岩头上敲雀嘴。把雀壳敲碎，再把雀肉拾进碗内，等碗满了就倒入桶中。用榔头敲速度慢，数量少，仅够供自己家里做菜肴食用，因此很少出售。敲到一两碗雀嘴，拿回家清水落镬一爨（cuàn），即可佐酒下饭招待客人。
打雀嘴虽然看起来不需要更多的技巧，其实是较为惊险的活——最重要的是要躲避海浪的袭击，以及小心手脚被雀嘴锋利的边缘刮伤。另外，由于市场需求大而过度地敲食，导致如今雀嘴资源慢慢枯竭，个体也变得越来越小。因此，人们不得不将目光投向那些个大肉肥却生长在临潮、临崖上的雀嘴，而这些地方又往往非常陡峭、险峻，不仅攀爬困难，而且恶浪无常，也就骤增了敲雀嘴的不安全系数。据沿海一带老人们回忆：因为海边岩石长期被潮水浸没，岩面往往非常溜滑，人们要穿草鞋才便于行走，一不小心就有可能葬身海底。
打了雀嘴回来，最经典的吃法是：连汤带水装盘来个隔水清炖，称“炖雀”。除撒一丁点盐外，无需任何调料，以保持它的原汁原味。炖熟揭锅，一层富含蛋白质的似蛋花又像豆腐花的物质被蒸出来，色泽白嫩、肉质细腻——原来那小小的“火山”之下，蕴含着那样鲜美无比的雀肉，此时散发出来的是雀嘴特有的鲜香，如龙卷风般袭过口腔。将鸡蛋打散，加入少许黄酒，放入洗净的雀嘴清蒸，雀嘴的鲜甜浸润了黄酒的醇和，足以令人食欲大动。另外，雀嘴也可腌制，称为“醉雀”，可生醉和熟醉：将新鲜的生雀嘴洗净后加黄酒、白糖和盐，密封保存后一周左右即可食用;若换成半熟雀嘴，以同样加工方法即为熟醉。生醉比熟醉保存得更久，风味也更原始更浓郁。
以前，渔民们敲到大量的雀嘴后，因为无法保鲜，又一时吃不完，通常就加盐晒成“雀干”，即《平阳渔业志》所谓的“重盐腌之，能久藏”。雀干与其新鲜时的风味自然不可同日而语，但可用于给其他菜肴提鲜，做羹做汤时放几粒进去，纯天然的那种鲜味是味精、鸡精等调味品无法媲美的。记得那时家家都备有雀干，以应不时之需。取一小把雀干和家乡特有的酸笋一起烧，即成一道美味的海鲜汤，既酸爽又鲜美，很是下饭。 隨着雀嘴的产量逐年减少，渔民们现在好多时候根本就是乘兴而去败兴而归，敲不到几粒雀嘴。等到连鲜吃都已不可求，那么小时候所熟知的“雀干”就成了一种封存于记忆里的奢侈品。有时，在岁月深处轻轻触动那小小的“火山口”，记忆的味蕾就被深深触动，那一股久违的鲜美便瞬间喷涌而出……
（本文图片来自视觉中国）
Barnacles： Delicacy in Southern Zhejiang
By Chen Hanli
Cangnan， a county in southern Zhejiang， boasts a 168.6-km-long coastline where sea life thrives. Of the seafood that village women pick up from rocks and beaches is barnacles. Barnacles are known in Cangnan as “sparrow’s beak”. The name describes barnacles most vividly. These arthropod creatures attach to rocks and they look ugly but they are a delicacy local people love.
One way to get barnacles off rocks is to use a hammer. In the past， village women came to get barnacles when tides were at a low ebb. They smashed the barnacle shell with the hammer and picked up the body and threw it into a bowl. In most cases， no gatherer would hammer barnacles more than necessary. After all， barnacles lived nearby and they could get them easily. A bowlful of barnacles was a good enough dish to please visitors or serve as a dish to go with wine drinking at home.
Though taking barnacles looks like an easy job， a gatherer must be very careful about tides that may come up at any moment. A gatherer must exercise caution： barnacles have sharp edges that can cut deeply. Nowadays， barnacles are not so easy to harvest in Cangnan after the nearest and easiest barnacle colonies are explored thoroughly. One needs to get to some dangerous rocks to get barnacles that look good and big. These rocks are hard to negotiate and sometimes waves come up all of a sudden. In the past， to walk steadily and safely on slippery rocks， a gatherer needed to wear a pair of straw-woven shoes： cheap and skidproof. Some old people still remember tragic deaths of some barnacle gatherers in the past.
The most typical way to cook barnacles is to put them into a bowl and pour water into the bowl. The bowl is then placed into water in a wok. Stewing looks like steaming， but it is not steaming. A pinch of salt is the only seasoning needed for the dish. It offers the best authentic appeal of barnacles. Even the gravy in the bowl is most delicious. Gourmets say that the ecstasy explodes like a tornado inside the mouth.
Barnacles can also be steamed with well beaten eggs with a touch of rice wine. Some people also enjoy wine-pickled barnacles. Raw barnacles can be directly pickled with rice wine， sugar and salt before they are sealed off and cured for a week. Barnacles can also be steamed half-done and then pickled with rice wine， sugar and salt. Barnacles， if pickled raw， offer a very strong flavor.
This way of pickling is somewhat intricate and is for gourmets， however. In cooking barnacles at home， villagers are straightforward and no-nonsense. In their hands， barnacles are mixed with a heavy dose of salt directly and then dried in sunlight. Dehydrated pickled barnacles can be stored for a long time. They are like a seasoning for， say， a bowl of dried barnacles and sour bamboo shoots soup.
Regrettably， as barnacles are overly looted from rocks and beaches in Cangnan， gatherers sometimes can only catch a disappointingly small quantity of barnacles. Some people even worry that when barnacles are no longer available meaningfully in Cangnan， the delicacy would only exist in memory and in books.