“第一夫人”: 世界新风向

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  On March 22, 2013, Peng Liyuan, the “First Lay” of China, went along with President Xi Jinping to Russia for a diplomatic visit. Millions of Chinese audience watched their first lady step out of the airplane on TV. Peng Liyuan, who used to be a singer and artist, is beautiful and trendy. She changed the traditional images of China’s first ladies who were unknown and unsung, and won great praise as well as worldwide press coverage.
  Peng Liyuan is not the first female who stays in the limelight on the international arena. Before that, Carla Bruni, the first lady of France, and Michelle Obama, the first lady of America, both started new trends. There was even a term used to describe this phenomenon – “The First Lady Effect”. It refers to the effect of first lady’s clothing, manners, and temperament on national and international public opinion. More importantly, the temperament of a first lady should be consistent with the temperament of the country and satisfy international aesthetic standards.
  2013年3月22日,中国“第一夫人”彭丽媛与中国国家主席习近平出访俄罗斯。中国数亿民众通过电视观看了彭丽媛走下飞机的画面,歌唱家出身的彭丽媛美丽而时尚,一改中国以往第一夫人默默无闻的风格,获得了中国民众的一致好评并被国际媒体争相报道。
  彭丽媛并不是第一位在国际社会大出风头的“第一夫人”,在此之前的法国“第一夫人”布吕尼、美国“第一夫人”米歇尔都曾引领一时风潮,人们甚至为此创造了一个词语叫做“第一夫人效应”。这个词指的是国家元首夫人外交时的着装、仪态气质等给本国乃至国际经济舆论所带来的效应。但并非是每个国家元首的夫人都能带来“第一夫人效应”,最重要的一点是这位夫人的气质需要同其所属国气质相匹配并能够满足国际社会的审美观。
  In 2008, Carla Bruni went along with President Nicolas Sarkozy to United Kingdom for a diplomatic visit. She wore a grey hat with a grey high-collar dress, accessorized with a black belt and a pair of black gloves. The British media was pleasantly surprised. Those picky commentators used the word “perfect” to describe her. In some way, she changed UK’s impression of France, and added some strings to President Sarkozy. This beautiful lady used her own way to elaborate her political wisdom. Bruni’s success didn’t simply rely on her charming appearance, but because she totally satisfied people’s expectation for French ladies: romantic and elegant. Thus, when Bruni came into people’s view, what people saw was not only an attractive woman, but a special temperament of French nation built over hundreds of years.
  2008年卡拉·布吕尼随时任法国总统萨科齐出访英国,以灰色帽子、同色高领连衣裙以及黑色手套腰带的装扮觐见英国女王,惊艳了英国媒体,让挑剔的英国评论家们用“完美”来形容她,同时也让英国政府对法国的印象有所改观,给萨科齐加分不少。这位美丽的法国女士用温婉的的方式展现了自己的政治智慧。布吕尼的成功所依靠的并非是简单的外在美,更是因为她的美丽是完全符合人们心中对法国美女的评判标准:优雅、浪漫。因而在布吕尼向世人亮相时,人们看到的不仅是一位美女,更是法兰西民族文明几百年沉淀下的特殊气质。
  The Economic Value behind the Dress-up
  of “First Lady”   “第一夫人”装扮暗藏经济价值
  Peng Liyuan made her appearance in Moscow wearing a quality dress and a bag without any logos on them. People were very curious where her clothes came from. Some famous fashion bloggers in China reckoned that the black bag Peng Liyuan carried in Moscow was from an Italian brand “TOD’s”. Several days later, the truth prevailed that all of her clothes and accessories were designed and made by some companies with local brands. In China, it has become a convention in the fashion industry to adore those Italian brands, and the local brands of China tend to be related with terms like “fake” and “non-durable”. Some Chinese brands have to emulate a foreign brand for survival. Peng Liyuan’s visit was undoubtedly a cardiotonic for Chinese enterprises. In the following days, there was a rally of clothing stocks. Peng Liyuan’s other visits afterwards also brought more boosts. The field of economics in China even brought up a term of “first lady concept stock” for this phenomenon.
  Analysts pointed out that what Peng Liyuan has brought to the industry of clothing is not only economic benefits. China has been in a disadvantageous position in the competitions with foreign brands. It is mainly because the customers have lost their faith in the local brands. Even though the local brands have been very progressive in the past years, they are still not convincing enough. It is for sure that Peng Liyuan has acted as an icebreaker in the predicament faced by China’s clothing industry. Her influence is of vital importance and extremely valuable to build a new image of Chinese brands.
  彭丽媛亮相莫斯科时,一身没有任何Logo、但却十分有质感的衣服及手袋引发了中国民众强烈的关注,对于她的服装来自何处,可谓众说纷纭。中国某著名时尚博主断言,彭丽媛亮相时所拎的纯黑色手提袋来自意大利著名皮具品牌朵姿(TOD’S)。几天后,真相水落石出。结果令之前的猜测者大跌眼镜,彭丽媛出访所穿服装竟全部由中国品牌商设计生产。在中国,时装以法国意大利设计为尊,中国品牌一直是不时尚与不耐用的代名词,甚至有些中国品牌需要冒充法国或意大利品牌才能生存。此次彭丽媛的出访无疑是给低迷的中国服装业注入了一针强心剂:在随后的两天,中国服装股连续大涨,甚至在几个月后的今天,彭丽媛的每次出访都伴随着中国服装股的应声而涨。中国经济界甚至为此创造了一个新名词:“第一夫人概念股”。
  分析人士指出,彭丽媛出访为中国服装业带来的好处远不止于经济利益。一直以来中国服装业在市场中与外来品牌竞争时处于劣势,主要原因在于中国消费者已经对中国本土服装品牌失去了信心。即使现在的中国国产品牌已经有了长足的进步,也不能够有效的吸引消费者。彭丽媛此刻无疑成为了中国服装业困境的破冰者,对中国服装品牌重新树立品牌形象起到了重要的作用,为中国服装业带来的好处无法估量。
  It is not the first case in history of a first lady‘s positive effect on clothing industry. The first lady of America, Michelle Obama, has brought several billions’ profit to relevant brands. According to some research, the stock price of the 29 brands worn by her all went upward in the following days after her visit. What have been worn in her visit to Europe even went up by 23% in the stock market. It reflects that the benefits brought by first ladies are more than any celebrities’ endorsement.   服装业通过“第一夫人”获益,这已不是头一遭。美国的“第一夫人”米歇尔·奥巴马曾为相关的品牌带来过数十亿美金的收益。据研究,在米歇尔穿过的29个服装品牌在她穿过之后的几天其股价均持续上涨,而米歇尔在出访欧洲时所穿的服装更是获得了23%的股价上涨。由此可见,第一夫人为品牌所带来的收益远高于任何普通名人的代言。
  The “First Lady” and Fashion Politics
  “第一夫人”与“霓裳政治”
  Being a first lady always needs to be prepared to attend diplomatic events and appear in public places. The frequent appearance under spotlights makes her dressing a topic among the media, and sometimes would even lead to being laughed at. On the other hand, she also gives up luxuries to keep a friendly image in front of the people.
  Samantha Cameron, the wife of British Prime Minister David Cameron, has a nickname of “brand animal” given by the media. She used to wear a ? 250 Phillip Lim black pants in daily life. For 3 years she wore low priced brands which only cost dozens of pounds to change her public image. On one of David’s campaign activities, Samantha chose a ?65 M&S grey-dots dress, and this dress went pandemic after that.
  1.8-meter-tall, slender Michelle Obama is a natural mannequin. On the night of June 3, 2008 when Barack Obama won the Democratic primary election, Michelle was wearing a stunning purple sleeveless dress, and some people said that the color was deliberately chosen since purple is the combination of blue(democratic) and red(GOP). And there were also people chatting about Michelle’s exposed arms, saying they were a signal for the sluggish American society since the arm represents power and Obama administration would be strong enough to support the American society if successfully elected. The arms were also a gesture of being friendly, and as the first lady of America, Michelle is an absolutely role model of being close to people: dancing with people in a T-shirt and wearing dresses during domestic visits are the best examples. Winning popularity is Michelle’s “fashion politics”.
  由于丈夫的特殊身份,“第一夫人”时刻都要做好充分准备出现在各种外交场合与公众场合,这样一来,她们的衣着打扮就不可避免地成为公众口舌的焦点。一个不小心,随时都会换来不留情面的嘲讽。另一方面,为了迎合举国上下各阶层人民的普遍支持,适时地舍弃高端产品,以亲民态度演绎平民品牌也成为了大多数第一夫人的首选策略。
  英国首相夫人萨曼莎曾一度被人称之为“名牌动物”,就连日常的黑色裤子,也要穿250英镑一条的名牌货Phillip Lim。但为了迎合骨子里保守、朴素的英国民众的口味,配合其丈夫卡梅伦的政治形象和需要,萨曼莎用3年时间将身上的行头从几百英镑一件减至几十英镑一件。在卡梅伦的某次助选会上,萨曼莎选择以一件出自英国连锁百货公司M&S、售价65英镑的灰色圆点连衣裙亮相,大打亲民牌。自此之后,M&S此款裙装风靡英国,被许多英国民众争相仿效。
  1米8的身高,修长身形的米歇尔可以说是天生的衣架。2008年6月3日,奥巴马赢得民主党总统初选之夜,米歇尔的一袭紫色无袖真丝连衣裙,惊艳了四座。有人评论,这款紫色连衣裙实则具有深刻的政治意义,因为紫色是由蓝色和红色混合而成,象征要两党通吃(蓝和红分别是民主、共和两党的党色)。另外,也有人围绕米歇尔的露臂装扮大做文章,认为臂膀所展现出来的“力量”对于今天低迷的美国社会具有十分正面的政治信息,健壮得足以承载一个破损的国家。虽然此种说法细细想来似有戏谑之意,但是美国民众仿佛对其深表赞同,因为在他们的眼中,健康强壮的臂膀更能证明总统夫人和平常人无异,让人感受到“亲和”。说到亲和,米歇尔将名牌与大路货色交替穿着的中庸之道表现的同样恰到好处,她可以穿着极其朴素的T恤长裤与民众一起跳舞,也可以穿一身印花连衣裙与丈夫四处探访,收放得宜的造型必然会赢得广大民众的欢迎,这便是米歇尔表现出来的“霓裳政治”。   On March 22, 2013, the moment when Peng, dressed in a dark blue double-breasted stand-collar coat with a light blue scarf and carrying a black handbag, walked out of the plane cabin with her husband and waved to a crowd, the “Chinese First Lady” suddenly became a hot topic frequently appeared on medias around the world, and even the hypercritical ones were also reporting “Chinese First Lady” with all kinds of compliments. Peng’s dressing during this visit was mostly in solid colors and adorned with bright-color accessories, which showed Chinese women’s grace and elegance. The frequent appearance of a scarf in a quiet shade of blue showed her “trying to make a model of being thrifty”, according to analysts.
  2013年3月22日,在身穿立领藏蓝色双排扣风衣、佩戴浅蓝色围巾、手提黑色皮包的彭丽媛与丈夫踏出机舱挥手致意的那一刻,“中国第一夫人”就成了全世界媒体炙手可热的话题。就连一向挑剔的外媒这次也没有吝啬他们对中国“第一夫人”的赞美语句。之后一系列的出访活动,彭丽媛的装扮也是大方得体。综合彭丽媛几次的亮相装扮,大多以庄重的纯色套装搭配亮色佩饰为主,展现出中国职业女性的优雅气质。其中,一条淡雅的蓝色丝巾曾不止一次出现在世人眼前。分析人士就此评论,两次抵达机场都佩戴同一条丝巾,是想通过不同的搭配,达到修饰作用的同时,又显现出不铺张浪费、节俭的一面,“这是她作为‘第一夫人’所做出的表率。”
  “The First Lady” Is not Just about Glamorous Appearance
  “第一夫人”并非花瓶
  Despite the meeting of the top leaders of the two countries, the meeting of the two first ladies also drew people’s attention. Before their meeting, the media already estimated that Peng would steal the limelight of Michelle Obama, the “first lady of the world” after graphic comparison since the career of being a military singer shaped both Peng’s characters and qualities. “Peng’s always stands straight”, says the media.
  But unfortunately this meeting didn’t really come into being though everyone was expecting it. Michelle snubbed Peng, saying that she had to take care of her daughters. Some said that that was a diplomatic embarrassment but others praised Michelle for taking care of family responsibilities and delivering the family value.
  在彭丽媛首次亮相的几个月后,中国国家主席习近平与美国总统奥巴马进行了会谈,但人们的注意力却被另一场会面吸引了不少,那就是中美“第一夫人”之间的会面。在美国总统换届后,米歇尔凭借出色的个人素养成为了世界“第一夫人”,但事实上早在彭丽媛亮相前就有媒体将彭丽媛与米歇尔进行过比较,并猜测彭丽媛可能会抢掉米歇尔的风头。这种猜测不无道理,彭丽媛作为军旅歌唱家无论从样貌与气质上都并不输于米歇尔,而彭丽媛的部队生涯更是让其有一种其他女子所罕有的英气,有媒体评论称:“军队出身的彭丽媛,无论何时站姿都是笔直的。”
  但令人遗憾的是这次被世人期待的会面并没有能够发生,米歇尔以需要陪伴自己的女儿为由缺席了这次会议。对此事舆评不尽相同,有评论认为此次米歇尔没有参加“习奥会”属于外交乌龙,但同时也有观点认为米歇尔陪伴女儿是尽到自己的家庭责任,与参加外交活动有着同样重要的意义。但不可否认的是,是否参加习近平与奥巴马的会面是米歇尔的自由,任何人都没有权利去指责什么,留在家里陪伴家人无疑也传递了正确良好的价值观。
  Speaking of the most powerful women in the world, the first ladies would have to step back and give this title to the female national leaders like Angela Merkel, the Germany Chancellor. Both the first ladies and the female national leaders are representing the milestone for gender equality development. However, different with the first ladies, the female national leaders are absolutely products of modern society. Although there were empresses in the old times, the rulers wouldn’t choose a woman to succeed their crowns if there was a choice, and the development of modern medical technologies has also relieved women from the troubles that used to block their political careers.   Actually, political women have to be “more like men” to pursuit political careers. For example, some even takes contraceptives to diminish the influence of the periods. The first ladies however, are actually developed from the traditional queens, who used to to be considered as “the mother of the world”, meaning they had to be a moral model for all citizens. The symbolization of women’s jobs has been passed to modern generations, and the influence that the first ladies have made to people would not only be fashion advice, but also imperceptibly delivering values.
  如果说起在国际政治上最有权势的女性群体,各国的“第一夫人”们还不能排到第一位。最有权势的无疑是以德国总理安格拉·默克尔为代表的现任各国的女性国家元首。“第一夫人帮”和“女性国家元首帮”同时是社会性别平等发展的丰碑,标志着现代社会的女性有更多地机会参加和影响政治。但同时在性别以外的方面,这两个团体又有着本质性的区别,女性国家元首是一个纯粹的现代社会的产物,在封建社会虽然也有女皇,但不能否认的是,很少有统治者会在有选择的情况下定女性为王储,甚至在一些国家,女性根本没有参政议政的权利。这并非完全是由制度的落后决定的,同时也决定于男女身体条件的客观差别。但在社会高速发展的大前提之下女性的自主意识觉醒,再加上医疗条件的发展使得很多生理上的问题不再如从前一样会给女性带来巨大困扰,越来越多的女性参加到了政治活动中,女性国家元首也逐渐增多了起来。
  事实上以上述方式参与政治活动的女性实际上是在某些方面通过使自己向“更男性”的方向发展以获取更多的支持和信任。例如一些女性政客如果在重要的政治活动时恰逢生理期,就会选择服食避孕药来干扰生理期的时间,以避免生理期疼痛对自己判断所产生的影响。而“第一夫人”们则更像是从传统中演化出的现代女性。在过去虽然妇女的很多权利遭到了限制,皇后乃至平民的妻子的地位却并不低微。在古代中国,皇后的职责除了管理皇帝的家庭外还有一项,即“母仪天下”,所谓“母仪天下”就是用自身的道德和行为为该国民众做榜样,而古代中国历朝历代的法典也对平民乃至贵族的妻子设立了极为严密的保护措施,女性的作用除了可触可闻的工作,同样也有符号化的意味。现代的“第一夫人”们同样继承了这种图腾式的意味。现在我们可以明显看到的是“第一夫人”们对于女性穿着的影响,但我们可以明确知道的是“发于衣冠,而不止于衣冠。”一位优秀的“第一夫人”不能够如国家元首一样对国家直接进行改变,还可以在潜移默化间对国民产生影响。
  A first lady also represents her country in many ways including talking, qualities and even disposition. So first ladies also show diplomatic importance even though they aren’t directly involved in diplomatic affairs. Peng’s Russian song during her visit to Russia and the “pickle diplomacy” between the first ladies of South Korea and Japan are both the best examples. The first ladies have added a soft and tender sense to diplomatic affairs.
  在外交方面,“第一夫人”的作用除赚取形象分之外,还是软外交的体现。通过一个国家“第一夫人”的谈吐、气质、仪态足以看出一国的谈吐、气质、仪态。与此同时,“第一夫人”虽然不直接参与国与国之间经济与政治的纠纷与谈判,但却在促进两国文化交流中起到重要的作用。歌唱家彭丽媛出访俄罗斯期间高歌一曲、日韩元首夫人之间的“泡菜外交”,都被传为佳话,这种独特的外交方式不仅体现了一国的软实力,更给冷冽严肃、利益说话的外交谈判增加了一些温柔的气质,甚至在一些时刻能够起到以柔克刚的作用。
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