人对食物的好恶有时是说不准的,同样一种食材或同一道料理,有人视作珍馐,有人却弃如敝屣,这也许可归为先天味觉的差异,但我以为影响最甚的是孩提的记忆,儿时的美好饮食经验,常会让人终生难忘,一再想回味那萦绕在唇齿间的美好滋味。小时候,在猪被大量经济化饲养前,所有内脏都是被视为珍品的,那时还未被抗生素污染的猪肝,甚至是被当作补品看待的。记得每当父亲熬夜通宵写稿,隔天早晨母亲便会为他煮一碗佐以姜丝、小白菜的猪肝汤补元气,那汤头是如此诱人, Sometimes people are not sure about the food’s likes and dislikes. The same kind of food or the same dish, some are regarded as delicacies, while others are discarded as pomfret, may be attributed to the difference of innate taste, but I think the most influential Children’s memories, childhood good diet experience, often makes people unforgettable, always wanted to recapture the beautiful taste that linger in the lips and teeth. When you were young, all offal was treated as treasures until the pigs were economically reared in a large amount. At that time, pigs that had not been contaminated with antibiotics were even treated as supplements. I remember whenever my father stayed up all night writing, the next morning my mother cooked a bowl of boiled liver soup with ginger and cabbage to make up his strength. That soup was so attractive,