咖啡屋之约

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  Well, in the 1950s in Soho there was another coffee house 1)craze. There are a number of reasons for this. One of the most important reasons was because the teenagers found that they had more 2)surplus wealth than they had before, and they couldn’t go to the pub because they wouldn’t be served there because they were too young, but they did want to go to somewhere where there could meet other teenagers, where you could meet women…
  Woman 1: There would be brown sugar in little jars, which was something new then. The coffee, the cappuccino—which was totally new, of course, then—you would have in either glass cups or sometimes quite sturdy 3)pulp 4)mugs, and indoor plants. You might see, through…through the window, the old 5)buskers giving it a go out in the street, the “Alberts” or “Mac, the Shakespearean Busker” perhaps. So the 6)ambiance was quite pleasant.
  
  (singing)
  
  In the 17th and 18th century, coffee tasted like7)prunes and 8)soot. In the 1950s, it tasted a lot better but the experience of going to a coffee bar was about a lot more than just coffee. In fact, some people didn’t even drink that much of it. And then in 1952 the Gaggia espresso machine was introduced to London. And there’s a…there’s a story behind this. There was a traveling Italian dental salesman called Pino Riservato, and he traveled up and down the land trying to sell his dental equipment, and he was absolutely horrified by the quality of the coffee that the British were drinking, and he decided to do something about it. So he went down to London and he sold to the Moka Bar, the first Gaggia espresso machine. And this 9)triggered a revolution. Espresso bars, now, when you went in, the first thing to catch your eye was this huge, monster of a thing, gleaming on the bars, 10)spluttering and11)wheezing and coughing out espresso after espresso.
  Woman 1: You got this kind of 12)steamy noise of the Gaggia; this spluttery steamy noise of the Gaggia machine as you wandered through Soho—here it goes: very familiar.
  
  Waiter: Espresso?
  Man 1: Hey, man. Thank you.
  Waiter: And a 13)flat white...
  Man 2: Thank you very kindly.
  Narrator: So, how was it?
  Man 2: Very good.
  Narrator: How much did it cost?
  Man 2: Two pounds fifty, I believe.
  Narrator: Was it worth that?
  Man 2: Yeah! Yeah! Definitely!
  Narrator: And how does it compare to other coffee shops in London, like Starbucks?
  Woman 2: Oh, this is one of my favourites. I would never go to Starbucks—absolutely not. This is quite a nice one.
  
  Narrator: So, Blake, do you see this culture lasting, or will it become 14)anodyne and people’ll get sick of it after a few years?
  Blake: I think the danger is that people will 15)rip off everything apart from the good coffee. In fact, I’ve seen it already: they’ll have the decor, they’ll offer flat whites, they’ll have all the illusions of these 16)obsessive coffee shops, but without the actual really good coffee. And then, that’s…I’ve already started seeing and that’s the danger. But places like this—I think there’s always gonna be a demand for them.
  Narrator: Coffee houses are mirrors which in some senses reflect the tastes and mentalities of the age. We’ve seen the desire of the 1950s for the youth of the age to let their hair down and enjoy themselves, a flash of colour after the 17)drabness and 18)austerity of the war years.
  The 21st century’s so-called third-wave coffee-house movement reflects that we no longer live in a world where the face-to-face exchange of ideas is a common part of life. We live in an increasingly virtual world with the Internet and television and 24-hour news, and if they reflect anything, it’s our almost 19)epicurean desire to consume the finer things in life. And if we briefly cast an eye back across the whole journey, the coffee house has shown a remarkable capacity for reinvention and rebirth, and I’m convinced that the third wave is merely the latest 20)incarnation in a long line of coffee houses. And I, for one, am looking forward to seeing what comes next.
  
  嗯,在二十世纪五十年代的伦敦苏荷区,曾掀起了另一波咖啡屋风潮。其兴起的原因不一而足,而其中最重要的原因之一是当时的青少年们发现,他们身上剩余的钱比以前更多了;而他们又不能去泡酒吧,因为他们年纪太小被酒吧拒之门外。但他们又确实想要个落脚的地方,在那里能够与其他青少年们相聚,而且还可以结识女性……
  女子甲:在小罐里会装有黄糖,这在那时可是个新鲜玩意。而咖啡,卡布奇诺——当然也是全新的东西,在当时——你既可以用玻璃杯,或者有时用相当坚固的纸浆杯来盛装,那里还有室内植物。你可以透过……透过窗户看见老街头艺人们在大街上表演,或许是那个“阿尔伯茨”或是“麦克,那个莎士比亚风格的街头艺人”。所以,那里的氛围相当宜人。
  
  (唱歌)
  
  在十七、十八世纪,咖啡的味道尝起来像西梅和煤烟。而到了二十世纪五十年代,味道则好多了,但去泡咖啡吧的感受可远不止单纯地品味咖啡。实际上,有些人甚至根本就没喝过多少咖啡。接着到了1952年,加吉亚意式浓缩咖啡机被引入了伦敦。而这其中……其中还有一段故事。有一位正在出差的意大利牙科设备推销员名叫皮诺·里塞尔瓦托,他跑遍了整个岛国试图推销他的牙科设备,而他为英国人所喝咖啡质量之差深感惊骇,他决定对此做点什么。于是他一路来到了伦敦,并在摩卡咖啡吧卖出了第一台加吉亚意式浓缩咖啡机,而这引发了一场革命。如今,当你走入那些意式浓缩咖啡吧,第一件映入你眼帘的事物就是一个这种巨大的、怪兽似的东西在吧台上闪闪发光,劈啪作响,呼哧带喘,一杯接一杯地喷出意式浓缩咖啡。
  女子甲:当你在苏荷区漫步时,你就能听到加吉亚咖啡机的这种水汽蒸腾的噪声——就是这种感觉了:非常熟悉。
  
  侍应:一杯意式浓缩咖啡?
  男子甲:嗨,老兄。谢谢了。
  侍应:和一杯奶香咖啡……
  男子乙:衷心感激。
  解说:那么,味道怎么样?
  男子乙:棒极了。
  解说:这一杯要花多少钱?
  男子乙:二点五英镑,我相信是这么多。
  解说:它值那个价吗?
  男子乙:是的!是的!当然值了!
  解说:它和伦敦其他的咖啡店比起来如何,譬如说星巴克?
  女子乙:噢,这里是我最喜欢的地方之一。我绝对不会去星巴克的——绝对不去。这个店相当不错了。
  
  解说:那么,布莱克,你认为这种文化是会持续下去呢,或只不过是昙花一现,数年后人们会对它失去兴趣呢?
  布莱克:我认为其危险就在于,人们会关注与咖啡有关的一切,唯独咖啡的品质除外,所以他们将会……实际上,我已经看到了这一点:他们有别致的装潢,他们会提供奶香咖啡,他们拥有这些迷人的咖啡店等所有表象,但是却没有真正的好咖啡。我已经开始看到了这一现象,那是相当危险的。但像这样的好咖啡店——我认为对它们的需求将始终存在。
  解说:咖啡屋就像是镜子,在某种意义上,反映了一个时代的品位和心态。我们已经看到了人们在二十世纪五十年代的渴求,那个时代的年轻人无拘无束,尽情享受,那是经历了单调乏味和紧缩简朴的战争岁月之后出现的一抹亮色。
  而在二十一世纪,所谓的第三波咖啡屋运动则反映了在我们所生活的这个世界里,面对面地交换思想已不再是生活中司空见惯的一部分。我们生活在一个越来越虚拟的世界里,充斥着互联网、电视和二十四小时滚动新闻,而如果说它们也反映了什么现象的话,那就是我们几乎可以说是享乐的欲望消耗了生活中更为美好的事物。而如果我们稍微将目光转向咖啡屋发展的整个历程,咖啡屋则已经展现了一种非凡的再造和重生的能力,而我坚信,这第三波浪潮只不过是咖啡屋的漫长发展史上的一个最新体现罢了。而我,作为其中一员,也正期盼着看到接下来还会有哪些变化发生。
  
  翻译:小狐
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