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我哀篮中蛤,闭口护残汁;又哀网中鱼,开口吐微湿。——苏东坡(1037-1101)一切都必须有一个开端,结尾也是。但我却想从中间开始,谈论一个有些人觉得伤风败俗的话题。鱼也有一个开端,那便是鱼头,但鱼头在西方的厨房却是不存在的。就算是被端上餐桌,也只是起到装饰的作用,并不是用来吃或者享用的。在这一点上,西方和东方的区别显而易见,说得更具体些,便是德国与中国、波恩与香港的区别。在德国不被接受的鱼头,在中国却被视为美味,鱼鳃和鱼眼睛也被看作是具有治病功效的
I mourning the clams in the basket, closed guard residual juice; and sad network of fish, mouth spit micro-wet. - Su Dongpo (1037-1101) Everything must have a beginning, the end is also. But I would like to start from the middle and talk about a topic that some people find unprofitable. Fish also have a beginning, that is the head, but the head in the Western kitchen does not exist. Even served on the table, it is only played a decorative role, not to eat or enjoy. At this point, the difference between the West and the East is obvious. To put it more specifically, it is the difference between Germany and China, Bonn and Hong Kong. Fish heads that are not accepted in Germany are regarded as delicious in China, and fish gills and fish eyes are also considered as curative