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海浪观测问题在海洋研究中被提到显要地位上,只不过才有二三十年的历史,本世纪四十年代还没有受到应有的重视。经典波浪理论固然也能解释一些海浪现象,遗憾的是,一旦接触到实际,立刻暴露出它的弱点,和真实情况距离很大。海浪予报任务的提出和予报技术的初步解决,刺激了海浪观测的发展;沿海兴建工程和海上航运对海浪资料的迫切需要,导致了研制海浪仪器的高涨。近年国际上不断举行技术会议,专门讨论与此有关的问题。概括这些情况,我们得到了一些粗浅的印象,在这里简要谈几点看法,供同志们参考。
The issue of ocean wave observation has been mentioned prominently in marine research, but it has only two or three decades of history. It has not been given due attention in the 1940s. Although classical wave theory can explain some wave phenomena, it is regrettable that, once exposed to reality, its weakness is immediately exposed and far from the real situation. The proposal of surfing to the newspaper and the initial solution to the reported technology have stimulated the development of ocean wave observation. The urgent need of oceanfront construction projects and maritime shipping for surfing data has led to the upswing in the development of surfing instruments. In recent years, international technical conferences have been held to discuss issues related to this. To sum up these situations, we have got some superficial impression. Here we briefly talk about the views for our comrades to refer to.