不可否认,刚刚过去的一个世纪,是我们中华民族传统服装走向衰落与蜕变的一个世纪;同时,这个世纪也是民族传统服装孕育新生能量的世纪。 一百年前,在北京宣武门南,达智桥胡同的松筠庵里,一位蓄着长辫、身穿长袍的年轻人,用有力的行草书法写下了中国近代史上著名的“公车上书”,他就是康有为。他在上疏奏折中称:“……以数千年一统缓之中国衰衣博带,长裙雅步而施万国竞争之世……诚非所宜矣!”可见当时中国服饰的改革与政治改革一样势在必行。辛亥首义成功,1912年民国政府颁布《服制》法令,将欧式的燕尾服、圆筒帽列为中国大礼服,西服为小礼服,这是中国第一次以法令确立西式服装在社会礼仪中的地位。从此,中国自上而下地开设接受西式服装与服饰习惯。经历了一个世纪的蹉跎,负载着旧时代精神的民族传统服饰形式逐渐消失,中国人的衣行为模式逐渐与西方趋同,最终“与国际接轨”。 于今日的国际环境之中,世界上任何一个民族都不可避免地首先在物质领域与其他发达国家趋向同一,经济贸易的全球一体化带来了生活方式的同质化,譬如都市的玻璃幕墙摩天大楼、家用电器、汉堡可乐、西装、T恤、牛仔裤等。其次,物质生活的间接影响以及传媒、通讯的直接 It is undeniable that the century just passed is a century in which the traditional Chinese clothing has declined and transformed. At the same time, this century is also the century in which traditional ethnic clothing breeds new energy. A hundred years ago, in Songyun Temple, in the alley of Da Zhi Bridge, in the south of Xuanwumen in Beijing, a young man with long braids and a long robe wrote a famous “bus in modern Chinese history Letter ”, he is Kang Youwei. He said: “... With thousands of years of unification of China’s declining clothing boom, skirts Ya-Si and the world of competition ... ... unfair carry!” At that time, the reform of China’s clothing and Political reform is just as imperative. In 1911, the government of the Republic of China promulgated the “service system” decree, listing the European style tuxedos and cylinder caps as the big Chinese dress and the suit as the small dress. This is the first time that China established the western style clothing in the social etiquette status. Since then, China has set up a habit of accepting Western clothing and clothing from top to bottom. After a century of shackles, the traditional national costumes carrying the spirit of the old age gradually disappear. The Chinese model of clothing and clothing gradually converges with the West and eventually becomes “in line with the world.” In today’s international environment, any nation in the world inevitably first and foremost has the same tendency as other developed countries in the field of material economy. The global integration of economy and trade has brought about a homogenization of lifestyles such as urban glass curtain wall skyscrapers Building, household appliances, burger cola, suits, T-shirts, jeans and more. Second, the indirect effects of material life and the direct media and communication