一、引言海浪谱不仅能描述海浪能量相对于组成波频率的分布,而且可与海浪的外部统计特征(如波高、周期等)相联系,故海浪谱是描述复杂海浪现象的有效手段。正因为如此,自五十年代诺曼第一次介绍了他的风成波谱表达式三十多年以来,国内外海洋学者对海浪谱进行了深入研究,提出了各自的谱公式。如国外的P～M(Pierson—Moscowith)谱、布列 I. INTRODUCTION Wave spectrum can not only describe the distribution of wave energy relative to the composition wave frequency, but also relate to the external statistical characteristics (such as wave height and period) of the wave, so the wave spectrum is an effective way to describe the complex wave phenomenon. Because of this, since the fifties Norman first introduced his wind spectrum expression for more than thirty years, oceanographers at home and abroad conducted an in-depth study of the ocean wave spectrum and proposed their own spectral formula. Such as foreign P ~ M (Pierson-Moscowith) spectrum, cloth column