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本文从实际涡动海水的运动方程出发,导出了描述风生波初生阶段成长过程的波面演化方程,讨论了波面正向力、切向力以及涡动粘滞性在这个过程中的作用。第一、二节所导出的波面演化方程表明,海波成长过程类似一振动系统,其外扰动力为加权|k|/ρ的波面正向力场与波面切向力散度场的和,切向力与正向力一样也通过共振和偶合两种方式向海波输入能量。在第三节中给出了关于二维波数谱的解。它表明,在
Based on the equations of motion of the actual turbid seawater, the wave equation describing the growth of the wind-born wave in the primary stage is derived. The effects of the normal force, the tangential force and the eddy viscosity on the wave front are discussed. The wave equation of evolution derived from the first and second sections shows that the growth of the wave is similar to that of a vibration system. The external disturbing force is the sum of the wave front force field and the wave front tangential force divergence field with weighted | k | / ρ, Tangential force and positive force are the same way through the resonance and coupling into the sea wave energy. The solution to the two-dimensional wave number spectrum is given in Section III. It shows that at