以普洱茶原产地之一、云南西双版纳易武乡的茶叶经济的兴起为例,探讨在跨时间、跨空间和跨情境的转变中,该地普洱茶的价值标准及与其相关的地方文化形象如何逐渐被确立的过程。法国红酒经历上百年时间逐渐树立其独特的地理标志概念“风土”的过程,以及由“风土”所引发的一系列人类学论述,是讨论普洱茶案例的重要参照体系。通过叙述普洱茶自身“风土”概念的建构过程,拟对西方学者有关物品生产和消费环节里有关“正宗性”的经典论述做出回应,以探讨中国当代消费热、收藏热的特殊性。通过分析提出,普洱茶“风土”标准的形成,是在普洱茶所置身的独特的社会文化背景下,在经济利益、文化建构、地方互动、政府导向等多种力量的驱动下逐渐形成的。 Taking the rise of tea economy in Yiwu, Xishuangbanna, Yunnan as one of the origins of Pu’er tea as an example, this paper explores the value standard of Pu’er tea and the related local cultural image in the transition of time, space and cross-context Gradually established process. The history of French wine gradually established its unique concept of geographical indication “terroir” over a hundred years and a series of anthropological arguments triggered by “Terroir” are important reference systems for discussing the case of Pu’er tea. By describing the construction process of Pu’er tea ’s own “terroir ” concept, it is proposed to respond to the classic discourse about “authenticity ” in the production and consumption of items by Western scholars in order to discuss the contemporary consumption fever in China and the hot collection Particularity. Through the analysis, the formation of the Pu’er tea “terroir ” standard is formed under the unique social and cultural background of Pu’er tea and driven by the various forces such as economic interests, cultural construction, local interaction and government orientation of.